Removal of G50 shift rod without a drop? Can it be done?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Removal of G50 shift rod without a drop? Can it be done?
What started out as a simple bushing replacement turned into a nightmare my friends. The bushings were all fine, it was the bolt that joins the coupling to the shift rod, snapped in there. So I drilled a hole and put in an easy out which must have been made of chocolate cause it snapped straight away. I cant drill it out and have made a mess trying so I need it out for repair.
I thought I had heard someone getting one out but it seems highly unlikely, thoughts? Maybe it's possible with 915 shift rods not my g50?
I thought I had heard someone getting one out but it seems highly unlikely, thoughts? Maybe it's possible with 915 shift rods not my g50?
#2
Spence,
I looked in my Bentley's manual but it does not mention a way to remove the shifter rod, at least I didn't find it. I assume you were replacing the bushings in the shifter mechanism? Maybe it will come out through the front.
Dan.
I looked in my Bentley's manual but it does not mention a way to remove the shifter rod, at least I didn't find it. I assume you were replacing the bushings in the shifter mechanism? Maybe it will come out through the front.
Dan.
#4
Look at the bright side...your gonna have a whole new learning experience!
I'm surprised someone here has not chimed with a definitive answer. They must be out Christmas shopping.
I'm surprised someone here has not chimed with a definitive answer. They must be out Christmas shopping.
#5
shift rod
perhaps you have enough access to mark and cut the shift rod in a suitable spot, remove the damaged section, repair, and weld the two parts back together in place in the tunnel... or cut into two parts, remove, repair, lathe an insert that will fit the id of the rod, and pin the rod back together in place. i am certain that there are other ways to accomplish the same thing short of removing everthing....but, i am one of those guys that runs around with an all aluminum 434 sbc engine developing almost 600 chp in my 71 911...so purist is not in my vocabulary!
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
MDL - you're right, I haven't dropped the engine yet so we'll see how hard it is to do.
Max - thanks for the advice, I'm happy to drop the engine, my welding skills aren't up to scratch and I don't fancy welding next to the fuel line that runs through there!
Max - thanks for the advice, I'm happy to drop the engine, my welding skills aren't up to scratch and I don't fancy welding next to the fuel line that runs through there!
#7
Burning Brakes
engine drop in a G-50 car is easier than a 915 car. Just undo the axles and slave cyl @ the trans, necessary vaccum fuel and electrical, oil lines, put it in 1,3 or 5 gear and drop her straight down with the car on level jack stands. Install is the same straight up into a level car. While it's out you can do all sorts of fun and expensive things like change the clutch, upgrade the throw out fork bushings, r&r both axles, change your on-engine t-stat o-ring, oil pressure light sender, valve adjust, the main fuel line that always dry rots and then leaks, have the injectors rebuilt, detail etc.....etc..... at least that's what I did... all in one weekend too!!
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I think you've convinced me butzip, I have been tossing it up. I worry I wont be able to get the car up at the rear high enough and balancing the engine on a jack! It's something I really want to know how to do though. Did you follow any kind of instructions, I've only read instructions for a 915 so I don't understand the hydraulic clutch, does it need to be bleed?
#10
Team Owner
Spence I had exactly the same question last year when I was trying to do my bushings. I came to the conclusion that some guy in Germany walks over to the assembly area in Stutgart, throws a shift rod on the floor and says " okay boys, build me a 911 around that "
#15
Quit Smokin'
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I don't understand the hydraulic clutch, does it need to be bleed?