Removal of G50 shift rod without a drop? Can it be done?
12-09-2008, 11:47 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
I think you've convinced me butzip, I have been tossing it up. I worry I wont be able to get the car up at the rear high enough and balancing the engine on a jack! It's something I really want to know how to do though. Did you follow any kind of instructions, I've only read instructions for a 915 so I don't understand the hydraulic clutch, does it need to be bleed?
Best of luck
12-09-2008, 11:53 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
oh yeah, I also took (2) 24 x 24 x 3/4" pieces of plywood and screwed (4) 2" casters to it. Place it between the engine and jack and when the engine comes down, it's neatly placed on a sturdy dolly you can wheel around the garage.
12-10-2008, 09:38 AM
#18
Racer
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12-13-2008, 08:24 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
thanks so much for all the advice guys, unfortunetly I can't get a Bentley manual for a few weeks as I need it to come from the states. Can I just ask one more question, as the gearbox coupling comes through the car, when you drop the engine down doesn't it foul on the car? Do you need to pull it back out the car as you lower it? Or does it somehow bend out of the way?
12-13-2008, 11:20 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
Spence88mph, before you drop the motor and tranny, you have to remove the large set screw (bolt) that holds the tranny inmput shaft to the shift coupler. It is located on the shaft near the nose of the tranny (didn't know if you knew where it was). On a G50, the coupler is different than a 915. Once the screw (bolt) is loose, move the shifter to uncouple the two entities. Then you are ready to take other stuff loose and drop the motor and tranny.
I think this was your question.
Good luck.
I think this was your question.
Good luck.
12-13-2008, 09:15 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Damn you guys are good! Spider thanks a lot, clears up a lot of things and g-50 cab, I could smooch you right now!
Hey Doug, mate, I'm 100%, feel fantastic! Glad your boy is still fightin em off! Take care.
Hey Doug, mate, I'm 100%, feel fantastic! Glad your boy is still fightin em off! Take care.
12-13-2008, 09:40 PM
#24
g-50 cab- That's a great site. The process does not look very difficult.
The only challenges I would have: (a) Removing the axle shafts (I do not have an impact wrench). (b) Loosening the transmission/engine mounts at the chassis rear (Same). (c) The final chassis raise (I do not have a post type hydraulic lift).
How do others accomplish these tasks when they do not have the tools?
How do others accomplish these tasks when they do not have the tools?
12-15-2008, 11:34 AM
#26
Drifting
Two hints. Find 2 SUV jacks - the bottle type that usually comes with the bigger ones - they usually have extending lifting capabilities. I jacked the front end up - took the wheels off and supported the front end on the first click of the jack stands. I like the car almost level when going to the next step.
I found an ATV lift for cheap - a piece of 3/4 plywood on top of that makes a nice support.
Snug it up against the motor until you feel the ATV lift try and lift the car.
Loosen the four main bolts (you may need a breaker bar or lug wrench for the rear engine mounts)
Have a buddy recheck all your connections are loose (especially your gear box is pulled back away from the shaft) - I found it much easier to loosen the starter connector and throttle connecter after it's been dropped a few inches.
Then do a combination of lowering the ATV jack and raising the rear of the car with the SUV jacks.
Works like magic.
I found an ATV lift for cheap - a piece of 3/4 plywood on top of that makes a nice support.
Snug it up against the motor until you feel the ATV lift try and lift the car.
Loosen the four main bolts (you may need a breaker bar or lug wrench for the rear engine mounts)
Have a buddy recheck all your connections are loose (especially your gear box is pulled back away from the shaft) - I found it much easier to loosen the starter connector and throttle connecter after it's been dropped a few inches.
Then do a combination of lowering the ATV jack and raising the rear of the car with the SUV jacks.
Works like magic.
12-15-2008, 06:18 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks a lot g-50cab.
To put this thread to bed:
No you can't without a drop but you don't need to go all the way as I discovered last night, here is the list of things that need disconnecting:
Before I give this list my car has had the oil lines backdated, I can't remember what they were like before but the backdated oil line's shape now makes sense to me, it allows you to drop the engine a fair way without disconnecting it, I'm not sure if this is the case with the hard oil line. So I didn't have to dump the oil.
1. Disconnect battery
2. Disconnect throttle on the underside of the car on the gearbox.
3. Undo shift coupler inside the car.
4. Undo and shift remove coupler outside car
5. Disconnect fuel lines
6. Undo 2 electrical plugs at the back of the engine and the one going into the fuse panel.
7. Disconnect earth strap.
You can then lover the engine about 12 inches and pull the rod, the other connections have enough slack to support this. I kept checking all the connections for slack and tension, you could probably even go a little lower, either way you can get to a lot of the engine this way and it takes no time at all, going to replace the sound pad too while I'm in there.
Thanks so much for all the help everyone!!
To put this thread to bed:
No you can't without a drop but you don't need to go all the way as I discovered last night, here is the list of things that need disconnecting:
Before I give this list my car has had the oil lines backdated, I can't remember what they were like before but the backdated oil line's shape now makes sense to me, it allows you to drop the engine a fair way without disconnecting it, I'm not sure if this is the case with the hard oil line. So I didn't have to dump the oil.
1. Disconnect battery
2. Disconnect throttle on the underside of the car on the gearbox.
3. Undo shift coupler inside the car.
4. Undo and shift remove coupler outside car
5. Disconnect fuel lines
6. Undo 2 electrical plugs at the back of the engine and the one going into the fuse panel.
7. Disconnect earth strap.
You can then lover the engine about 12 inches and pull the rod, the other connections have enough slack to support this. I kept checking all the connections for slack and tension, you could probably even go a little lower, either way you can get to a lot of the engine this way and it takes no time at all, going to replace the sound pad too while I'm in there.
Thanks so much for all the help everyone!!
