Need a daily driver
10-21-2008, 03:41 AM
#16
Seriously, some time in the near future I will buy one of these early cars, and as mentioned earlier, I want to use it as a daily driver.
To avoid getting in the same dilemma again, it has to be a car with some miles on the clock.
So, please tell me what to look for and what to be aware of?
To avoid getting in the same dilemma again, it has to be a car with some miles on the clock.
So, please tell me what to look for and what to be aware of?
10-21-2008, 04:18 AM
#17
Race Car
One option, if you can find one, would be to get a backdated Carrera or SC. It's getting more common for owners of impact-bumper models to change out the hood, fenders and bumpers to get the look of the original 911 design. (The opposite of the old update to a short hood and impact bumpers that sometimes happened to pre-1974 cars in the eighties.)
You'll get galvanized steel, more creature comforts, and a little more umph when you push the right pedal compared to the 2.0-2.4 liter cars.
This one recently sold. It had a 993 motor in a Carrera tub with nice AC and very few compromises.
You'll get galvanized steel, more creature comforts, and a little more umph when you push the right pedal compared to the 2.0-2.4 liter cars.
This one recently sold. It had a 993 motor in a Carrera tub with nice AC and very few compromises.
10-21-2008, 05:46 AM
#19
Racer
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Sierra Foothills, CA
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It sounds like you have your mind made up to get an early car. There are beautiful ones for a lot of money and junk cars for cheap; but not many high mileage, well maintained, reasonably priced "drivers".
Here's my $.02 since you asked:
1) Get a "long wheelbase" car: 1969-73
2) Get a T or E model. S cars are rare and expensive
3) Watch out for RUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4) You didn't give your budget but be prepared to spend $15 to 25 grand for a "driver".
5) Whatever car you find, be prepared to spend additional $$$ to make it right.
6) If you're prepared for modest performance and minimal creature comforts, these cars can be very fun to drive!
Here's my $.02 since you asked:
1) Get a "long wheelbase" car: 1969-73
2) Get a T or E model. S cars are rare and expensive
3) Watch out for RUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4) You didn't give your budget but be prepared to spend $15 to 25 grand for a "driver".
5) Whatever car you find, be prepared to spend additional $$$ to make it right.
6) If you're prepared for modest performance and minimal creature comforts, these cars can be very fun to drive!
10-21-2008, 07:36 AM
#20
It sounds like you have your mind made up to get an early car. There are beautiful ones for a lot of money and junk cars for cheap; but not many high mileage, well maintained, reasonably priced "drivers".
Here's my $.02 since you asked:
1) Get a "long wheelbase" car: 1969-73
2) Get a T or E model. S cars are rare and expensive
3) Watch out for RUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4) You didn't give your budget but be prepared to spend $15 to 25 grand for a "driver".
5) Whatever car you find, be prepared to spend additional $$$ to make it right.
6) If you're prepared for modest performance and minimal creature comforts, these cars can be very fun to drive!
Here's my $.02 since you asked:
1) Get a "long wheelbase" car: 1969-73
2) Get a T or E model. S cars are rare and expensive
3) Watch out for RUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4) You didn't give your budget but be prepared to spend $15 to 25 grand for a "driver".
5) Whatever car you find, be prepared to spend additional $$$ to make it right.
6) If you're prepared for modest performance and minimal creature comforts, these cars can be very fun to drive!
What advantage does the longwheelbase car have?
10-21-2008, 09:02 AM
#21
Drifting
10-21-2008, 11:32 PM
#22
2nd Gear
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 2
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One option, if you can find one, would be to get a backdated Carrera or SC. It's getting more common for owners of impact-bumper models to change out the hood, fenders and bumpers to get the look of the original 911 design. (The opposite of the old update to a short hood and impact bumpers that sometimes happened to pre-1974 cars in the eighties.)
You'll get galvanized steel, more creature comforts, and a little more umph when you push the right pedal compared to the 2.0-2.4 liter cars.
This one recently sold. It had a 993 motor in a Carrera tub with nice AC and very few compromises.
You'll get galvanized steel, more creature comforts, and a little more umph when you push the right pedal compared to the 2.0-2.4 liter cars.
This one recently sold. It had a 993 motor in a Carrera tub with nice AC and very few compromises.
10-22-2008, 10:12 AM
#23
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Depending on how much salt is on the roads in winter where you are, you may have to be EXTEMELY diligent to ensure that serious corrosion does not start. Even the older galvanized cars are not immune. These cars did not have fender liners (which were not typical of any cars in those days) and hence, all the crap kicked up by the tires could find many crevices and ledges in the body structure on which to build up on and eventually create problems.
You may want to poke around on Pelican as there are numerous threads of restoration projects with many photos of the ensuing rust repairs. It will give you a better idea of the problem areas. In addition to that, I would suggest having any potential purchase thoroughly examined by an expert in the early cars.
Carbs may be simpler and less affected by changing fuel than some of the MFI systems with steel lines (for this reason, if you were considering a later car, a Carrera (with its DME) might be a better daily driver choice than an SC).
The early cars have received a lot of interest in the market in the past few years and thus are not "cheap", but, as always, you will want to spend the $$ up front to get a good one with little-to-no rust and well sorted mechanicals, as it will always be cheaper in the long run.
You probably want to find that balance of good and solid, but not concours either.
Finally, it may be best to broaden your search beyond the local market (if you have not already done so).
Good luck!!
You may want to poke around on Pelican as there are numerous threads of restoration projects with many photos of the ensuing rust repairs. It will give you a better idea of the problem areas. In addition to that, I would suggest having any potential purchase thoroughly examined by an expert in the early cars.
Carbs may be simpler and less affected by changing fuel than some of the MFI systems with steel lines (for this reason, if you were considering a later car, a Carrera (with its DME) might be a better daily driver choice than an SC).
The early cars have received a lot of interest in the market in the past few years and thus are not "cheap", but, as always, you will want to spend the $$ up front to get a good one with little-to-no rust and well sorted mechanicals, as it will always be cheaper in the long run.
You probably want to find that balance of good and solid, but not concours either.
Finally, it may be best to broaden your search beyond the local market (if you have not already done so).
Good luck!!
10-22-2008, 06:20 PM
#24
Burning Brakes
How about a perfect 1986 sunroof coupe blk/blk 59k original miles no accidents / stories or paint? I'll be posting it in the next days Pano/Excellence/Cars.com/PCA.org etc classifieds...... But you've heard it here first. I'm in Northern Connecticut. This car is B-E-A-utiful...... IM me if your interested. I haven't even taken pics yet.
Brgds, Peter
Brgds, Peter
10-22-2008, 07:23 PM
#26
Where exactly do you live?
What use does a "DD" entail? 10 miles of backroads? 30 miles of stop and go? Heat and humidity? Mountains? etc etc...
Why not find someone near you with a 2.0-2.4 and try to drive it. Come to appreciate the general lack of torque.. the noise needed to just keep up with stoplight traffic.. the lack of AC.. lack of modern safety comforts like ABS, Traction control, Airbags.. Roll up windows.. noise again .. failed rubber gaskets/weatherstrpping.. Popping carbs that need adjustment... Having the car strand you with an electrical issue at night.. dim headlights.. Parts that are simply NLA.. etc etc
I understand the romantic notion of daily driving such a car but it may not be practical. There are reasons why not many people still do so with such cars.
Your Turbo sounds like a fantastic example to use as a DD. Modern conveniences. HP to keep up with and pass traffic.. smooth suspension.. plus, since its "low miles", it must be like driving a brand new 16 y/o car! What a great car to have great memories with!
What use does a "DD" entail? 10 miles of backroads? 30 miles of stop and go? Heat and humidity? Mountains? etc etc...
Why not find someone near you with a 2.0-2.4 and try to drive it. Come to appreciate the general lack of torque.. the noise needed to just keep up with stoplight traffic.. the lack of AC.. lack of modern safety comforts like ABS, Traction control, Airbags.. Roll up windows.. noise again
.. failed rubber gaskets/weatherstrpping.. Popping carbs that need adjustment... Having the car strand you with an electrical issue at night.. dim headlights.. Parts that are simply NLA.. etc etcI understand the romantic notion of daily driving such a car but it may not be practical. There are reasons why not many people still do so with such cars.
Your Turbo sounds like a fantastic example to use as a DD. Modern conveniences. HP to keep up with and pass traffic.. smooth suspension.. plus, since its "low miles", it must be like driving a brand new 16 y/o car! What a great car to have great memories with!
10-23-2008, 03:51 AM
#27
Where exactly do you live?
What use does a "DD" entail? 10 miles of backroads? 30 miles of stop and go? Heat and humidity? Mountains? etc etc...
Why not find someone near you with a 2.0-2.4 and try to drive it. Come to appreciate the general lack of torque.. the noise needed to just keep up with stoplight traffic.. the lack of AC.. lack of modern safety comforts like ABS, Traction control, Airbags.. Roll up windows.. noise again .. failed rubber gaskets/weatherstrpping.. Popping carbs that need adjustment... Having the car strand you with an electrical issue at night.. dim headlights.. Parts that are simply NLA.. etc etc
I understand the romantic notion of daily driving such a car but it may not be practical. There are reasons why not many people still do so with such cars.
Your Turbo sounds like a fantastic example to use as a DD. Modern conveniences. HP to keep up with and pass traffic.. smooth suspension.. plus, since its "low miles", it must be like driving a brand new 16 y/o car! What a great car to have great memories with!
What use does a "DD" entail? 10 miles of backroads? 30 miles of stop and go? Heat and humidity? Mountains? etc etc...
Why not find someone near you with a 2.0-2.4 and try to drive it. Come to appreciate the general lack of torque.. the noise needed to just keep up with stoplight traffic.. the lack of AC.. lack of modern safety comforts like ABS, Traction control, Airbags.. Roll up windows.. noise again
.. failed rubber gaskets/weatherstrpping.. Popping carbs that need adjustment... Having the car strand you with an electrical issue at night.. dim headlights.. Parts that are simply NLA.. etc etcI understand the romantic notion of daily driving such a car but it may not be practical. There are reasons why not many people still do so with such cars.
Your Turbo sounds like a fantastic example to use as a DD. Modern conveniences. HP to keep up with and pass traffic.. smooth suspension.. plus, since its "low miles", it must be like driving a brand new 16 y/o car! What a great car to have great memories with!
The daily driving entail approximately 25-40 km. No mountains and a danish climate.