while im in there....
#2
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just wanted to say that I am sorry you ran into an expensive repair so soon after purchace.
Imagine what could have happened on a car you did not get a PPI done on.
I cant say what you should do while your in there...I have tons of things i would do if I had the motor out.
Imagine what could have happened on a car you did not get a PPI done on.
I cant say what you should do while your in there...I have tons of things i would do if I had the motor out.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Mike,
Trust me I am sick to my stomach! I keep blaming myself, like I did this, because clutch was relatively new(20k miles). I keep going over my driving techinque and trying to figure out whether or not this was my fault, but I cant think of anything I do that would have caused this.
thanks,leo
Trust me I am sick to my stomach! I keep blaming myself, like I did this, because clutch was relatively new(20k miles). I keep going over my driving techinque and trying to figure out whether or not this was my fault, but I cant think of anything I do that would have caused this.
thanks,leo
#4
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I wouldnt worry about your shifting skills. I dont think my daughter could have screwed it up that quick.
Most likely it was a faulty part or sloppy install. Just your bad luck it crapped out when it did. At least NOW you will no exactly what you are starting with.
Most likely it was a faulty part or sloppy install. Just your bad luck it crapped out when it did. At least NOW you will no exactly what you are starting with.
#5
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here's my list:
pilot bearing $12
32mm guide tube $85
rear main seal $30 <----- important!!!!
thermostate o-ring $7
oil sender switch $13
clutch fork update $185
heater hose clamps and shop supplies $14
I used a OEM Sachs clutch kit because I wanted to stay with rubber. $945. Metal spring plate will be cheaper.
Total parts: $1290
surface flywheel $65
Labor 16.2hrs @ $65/hr = $1053
Total w/ tax, etc: $2624
pilot bearing $12
32mm guide tube $85
rear main seal $30 <----- important!!!!
thermostate o-ring $7
oil sender switch $13
clutch fork update $185
heater hose clamps and shop supplies $14
I used a OEM Sachs clutch kit because I wanted to stay with rubber. $945. Metal spring plate will be cheaper.
Total parts: $1290
surface flywheel $65
Labor 16.2hrs @ $65/hr = $1053
Total w/ tax, etc: $2624
#6
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Unrelated to the clutch, but something to consider while the engine is dropped: New fuel lines.
See my thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ight=fuel+line
Later, to replace your lines you'll have to remove the intake manifold. Might be easy to do while the engine is out. Fuel lines from Pelican are around $500. Far cheaper than a $20,000 car fire.
See my thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ight=fuel+line
Later, to replace your lines you'll have to remove the intake manifold. Might be easy to do while the engine is out. Fuel lines from Pelican are around $500. Far cheaper than a $20,000 car fire.
#7
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Go with the spring-plate vs. rubber. If rubber fails before surfaces are worn, you're back to square-1. I've not heard of the spring-plate systems failing.
Check for oil leaks above and/or in "front" portion of engine that could have contaminated your clutch -surfaces. Get them done/fixed now soo you won't do another clutch-job.
Replace crank/main shaft seal (lives behind clutch).
Whistle while you work. The neighbors will love it.
Check for oil leaks above and/or in "front" portion of engine that could have contaminated your clutch -surfaces. Get them done/fixed now soo you won't do another clutch-job.
Replace crank/main shaft seal (lives behind clutch).
Whistle while you work. The neighbors will love it.
Trending Topics
#8
Intermediate
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: RIO RANCHO, NEW MEXICO
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
20K miles isn't much, even for a rubber clutch plate. Once it is opened up the problem will reveal itself.
Any parts you pre-order you may need to return. I agree, replace with a spring plate, if the rubber is the problem.
Any parts you pre-order you may need to return. I agree, replace with a spring plate, if the rubber is the problem.
#9
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The list above is the minimum, but comprehensive. Anything else that looks funky should be replaced now while the engine is out. Go for a valve adjust too.
Check your flywheel too, and replace if needed, as well as clutch cable.
You seem to overlook that the prev owners put 20K on the clutch......that's a long time if someone didn't drive it correctly.
Check your flywheel too, and replace if needed, as well as clutch cable.
You seem to overlook that the prev owners put 20K on the clutch......that's a long time if someone didn't drive it correctly.
#10
Team Owner
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
not so fast ......
I would not be in a hurry to change to a spring centred until you determine root cause. Spring plate may increase g50 gear rattle.
I would not be in a hurry to change to a spring centred until you determine root cause. Spring plate may increase g50 gear rattle.
#11
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I also don't plan to track the car much. Just occasional DE events.
#12
Team Owner
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yeah, that's why I stayed with rubber. I was warned by a few that the noise could be an issue. Porsche was using spring plates and then switched back to rubber. And my clutch lasted 117K miles -- so that inspired me to trust that it was a good design.
I also don't plan to track the car much. Just occasional DE events.
I also don't plan to track the car much. Just occasional DE events.
I do not know what is in my car , if it was replaced by spring or rubber centrered clutch by PO , but i LOVE the way it performs. Whatever is in there when it does give out ( rubber or spring ) is going back in .
#15
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
WHOA!!! A spring hub disc? Installed by a dealer? For an older, lady driver? What the heck else did they screw up??? Leo, this might be your problem, but it isn't your fault! Make sure that you pay attention to Shannon's posts - they are right on the money. And be sure that your mechanic knows about the T.O. fork update, how to check yours, and how to replace it!
Ice: Your car will have a spring hub disc in it - no rubber centered discs available for the 915 cars - totally different animal..
Ed: Shame on you
- you know that an '88 doesn't have a clutch cable! Don't worry, I've had these glitches also, sometimes you're just thinking about other stuff...
Ice: Your car will have a spring hub disc in it - no rubber centered discs available for the 915 cars - totally different animal..
Ed: Shame on you
![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)