Hester

Well, its not like I actually have an extra $2,000 burning a hole in my pocket. I'm just trying to keep up with you, Ed.

Ed Hughes

Didn't know this was a contested event, I'll have to work to keep up with you in the car department then.

Simply pointing out that the lift posted would be just one notch up from jackstands, strictly IMHO after aving mine for 3 or 4 years now.Anytime you want to get Hester up on mine, the garage is open.....

flatsixnut

My Bentley manual will be here tomorrow. I ordered from Amazon and did the one day shipping. Manual was $75, but the one day shipping was $18. Worth it to me because I want to get started sooner than later.

My worry is driving my car down to the car wash and the clutch cable breaking completely before I can get it back home. Maybe I will just skip cleaning the underside and just get to it. I also do not want to damage anything else driving it. Any ideas?

flatsixnut

Yeah thats real close to me. I would love to have some help...at least to watch out and call 911 if it falls on me. Seriously though, Ill let you know my plans and I dont even mind if you just wanted to watch. I live down off Sunset Ave if you are familiar with the Lutz area.

flatsixnut

Well I did not get any work done on the car this weekend, spent the whole day getting the garage cleaned up. Just my luck...when I repositioned the car I noticed the left rear tire was almost flat. Must have picked up something the last time I drove the car. I did drive through a subdivision with new homes being built. (wish that was the most of my problems)

I need to go and buy taller jack stands...mine only go about 14 inches.

flatsixnut

Bought some huge jack stands today and set about removing my clutch cable after work. Cable is out and on my work bench. Not bad for a couple hours work. A bit nervous raising the car as high as I did. Not too happy with all the oil dripping about everywhere.

Pete's questions:

1. With the cable on the workbench hold the bowden tube with one hand and pull the cable through it toward what would be the back of the car. Does it move smoothly? Any broken strands?
2. What is the condition of the arm and bushing where the clevis fork attaches?
3. Is the black helper spring on the left side of the pedal cluster, for the clutch pedal, intact?

And here's an off the wall question. Use a small flashlight to inspect the right side of your airbox just below the fuel distributor. On the black plastic vertical surface that faces to the passenger side can you see a blue sticker (about 1" x 1.5") or glue remnant in that area?


1. Does not move smoothly and the black cover is split in a few long places exposing the cable strands. The cable strands do not appear to be broken but scuffed flat in places. Was actually pretty hard to pull in a few places.

2. There was no bushing on the clevis pin. Everything looked normal.

3. Yes the spring was intact.

Oddball question: Did not find a blue sticker. There did seem to be a sticker or something there at some point. Think I was looking in the right place. Is there another name for the fuel distributor?

Peter Zimmermann

Michael: If there is no blue sticker that means that your car has probably had the airbox replaced, but if you found left-behind glue that was probably from the sticker which fell off/crumbled at one point. Don't worry about it now, let's see if a clutch cable gets you on the road first.

The condition of your clutch cable bodes well for a successful repair. The difficulty to "pull" it through the bowden tube tells me that it's overdue for replacement. About #2; there should be a white bushing in the clutch shaft arm, which fills the hole through which the clevis pin slides into when you anchor the clutch cable. There must be a bushing in that hole, perhaps someone replaced the original with an aftermarket brass one?

BIG WARNING: Do not buy/use an aftermarket clutch cable!!! The aftermarket cable will say "Made in West Germany" in white letters along the bowden tube - do not use that cable! Whomever that you buy the cable from, specify o.e. only...

flatsixnut

I called down to Vortex Motorsports today to see if they had one. LOL...they just called me back as I was typing. I am ordering a new cable $85 (they said it was oem) New clevis pin and bushing and a gallon of Swebco. I will be picking it up in a couple hours.

Peter Zimmermann

Yes, $85 is about right for an o.e. cable. What did you find out with the bushing?

flatsixnut

No bushing to be found on my car when I took it out. I have a new pin and bushing coming with my order. I am not going to pick up the parts until Friday.
My daughter is only here for a couple more days until she goes to my folks and then back to her mom. Gotta make some quality time.

If everything goes as planned with fingers crossed, I will be able to drive the car Sat and see if its ok. Then figure out what the next project will be.


Hmmm...I was just thinking Pete. When I removed the board behind the pedal cluster I used my shop vac to tiny up....wonder if I sucked up a bushing that might have fallen off. Question is...do I dig through the dust and cat hairs to find a bushing? Think I will just out of curiousity.

Peter Zimmermann

Those bushings are usually so tight that they need to be knocked out of the hole, even when they're worn. The clevis fork helps to secure them, so they can't fall out during c-pin removal. If you're vacuum looks like mine inside, I think if you do a bushing search a YouTube video of that would certainly be entertaining !

flatsixnut

Ok, I have parts (rather my wife picked them up on lunch break), will be installing new cable, cp pin, and bushing tonight or tomorrow. Is there any trick or something special I should do to adjust the cable once in? The Bentley has a pretty extensive clutch adjust section.

I also got a gallon of Swebco...should I go ahead and put it in before checking the clutch out and driving it? I would think that new fluid would help...but at $50 gallon, should I wait just incase I gotta do more work?

Peter Zimmermann

In my opinion, hold off on the fluid. Just do the cable, and step by step adjustment, and post the good news that the clutch has never worked so well!

flatsixnut

Amazing!!! What a difference a new cable can make. I may or may not have the clutch adjusted exactly the way it should be, but everything seems to be working like a charm.

I do not think I have any syncro issues either now. I used to have to really baby it going into first and second (I still will for saftey sake), but now It does not even give a hint at wanting to grind. I even put it into first gear without being at a complete stop with NO grind what so ever.

I guess this means that my first "major" DIY was a success.

This also means that I wont be pulling the engine anytime soon.
Thanks all who offered to help or load equipment. Not to say I wont be dropping it in the future because I definitely have some oil leaks.

A special thanks goes out to Pete for the advice and encouragement!

PS. Germans must have small hands.

flatsixnut

Almost forgot...I "think" the fluid was changed about 15,000 miles ago. Interval for changing is around 60,000 miles...correct? Should I go ahead and change the fluid now anyway just to finish it off? I have a gallon of Swepco 201. Man that stuff is not cheap ($50). Makes you think you are getting a bargain for gas per gallon.