SeattlePorsche

I agree with the engine drop party. What exactly did Pete diagnose was wrong with your car? If it is just a clutch replacement, you can do that by yourself. You don't need an engine stand to do that. I had an engine drop bar b q last year and it was fun. We dropped the engine in 4 hours. One guy, sensei Doug, had done this before and directed 2 of us + my 17yo nephew who mostly watched. You need a jack and a furniture dolly to lower the engine onto.

Then you just unbolt 4 bolts to separate the tranny from the engine and you expose your clutch and flywheel. You probably need to take the flywheel to a shop so they can resurface it flat (assuming it still meets spec/thickness). That takes one day. Then just put your new clutch in. New bolts for the flywheel. The only special tool you need is a 12 point allen head for the flywheel bolts and a torque wrench and a good book on the SC. I used Bentley. Putting the clutch in would take you a day.

Then you mate the tranny back to the engine. You have to line the fork up with the throwout bearing (I think it is called.) Then lift the engine/tranny back in with the jack and a friend helping you line up the engine and tranny mounts. If you go crazy on the engine and tranny like I did, it will take you longer, but if you just want to get it driving you can do this very quickly. I had absolutely no experience with this kind of stuff and I did my 81SC last year and I know you can do this too. Good luck!!

Post pictures and ask lots of questions and everyone here can help you too!

SeattlePorsche

Oh, I just read about your fear of dropping the car on your head. That is a healthy fear and I overdid the safety stuff. Have big chocks to wedge under your front tires so the car doesn't move. Put your rear tires under the car so if it falls, it falls on the tires. Don't cheap out on the jackstands. You will need the big-tall ones. I would keep my jack under the car and engaged for added insurance. I kept my garage door open so my neighbor could find me, and I kept my cellphone in my pocket for an emergency call.

Can you tell I was worried about this too?

TT Oversteer

"The Drop" is easier than you make it out to be in your mind. In reality it's easier than a VW bug because you drop the engine and trans as a unit and you don't have to jockey the engine off of the trans then out of the car. The 911 unit is of course heavier so you have to go slow and be careful. Once she's out of the car you can easily separate the trans from the engine. Beautiful garage, by the way, and length really is more important than width in this case. If it's just a clutch job I don't see how you'll be out of comission for a year. You can drop it in a day and put it back together in a couple of weekends. Unless, of course, you succumb to "while you're in there itis". Go for it and spend your money on parts instead of labor!

flatsixnut

The reason I said it would take me a year is because if I am going to drop my engine, I might as well go completely over it. It has some leaks, and i would not mind cleaning it up a bit. This would also be a good time to do the tensioner upgrade, although they were replaced just prior to me buying the car a few years ago.

I have some decisions to make because I was seriously thinking about selling this car and buying a 930. But if I am going to spend alot of time and money on this car I will be keeping it forever.

Below are the PM's between me and Pete. (Thanks again for the time Pete)

Quote:
Originally Posted by flatsixnut
Well it seems I may have probelms with my gear box now.
I am thinking it may be possible its the clutch cable. I have always been real careful shifting, complete stop before putting it into 1st gear etc..

The clutch pedal has felt kinda dead the last year...meaning, when I push it in to engage the clutch it just feels like its not actually doing anything...its stiff, but it does not feel like its doing what it should. My actual clutch is not slipping at all, ever.
Sunday I went for a drive and after about 30 mins or so I came to a stop light...oh god the embarrassment...I have never grinded the gears like this. I could not put it into either second or first with out it grinding. It did it again on the way home a couple times then all of a sudden I was able to get into those two gears without grinding....man it really hurt (me) to grind them.

For some reason I just dont think its the 915...I have this odd feeling something else is going on.

Does this make since? I really need to get my hands on a Bently quick.

Thanks,
Michael

Hi Michael:
Clutch release (in your case non-release) issues are tricky when they're not done hands-on, but I'll try to do a law of averages for you. But, before I can do that I have to know (if you know) the mileage on the clutch and clutch cable. My initial thought is that your throw out bearing release fork (in the bell housing) has broken, which can give some inconsistent clutch release problems. It's also possible that something in your clutch cable and related linkage is failing, such as the roll pin that secures your clutch pedal arm to the pedal cluster cross shaft, or the cable itself could be breaking (which they do a few strands at a time).

If you have some documentation let me know, but from what you've said the problem will be clutch related, not the trans.


Quote:
Originally Posted by flatsixnut
These are the only items I see that relate to the clutch...

3-21-00 clutch adjustment
9-27-99 R&R clutch cable and bushing, lube linkage...$96.00
1-12-99 R&R clutch arm and lube shaft, adjust clutch...$45.00
9-22-98 clutch adjustment...$45.00

Seems like they did alot of adjusting...but the prices dont look like anything was replaced...or maybe?

Oh boy, I guess that it's possible that nothing's been done at 110K. That leaves you in a position where your repair cost will be in the thousands, but you can do everything at once. If, in fact, the car's a virgin, here is a list to consider: Clutch kit (pressure plate, disc, throwout bearing), clutch release fork, flywheel, crank seal, mainshaft seal, throwout bearing guide tube (maybe), pilot shaft bearing, clutch cable, clevis pin and clevis fork, pedal assembly bushings (maybe), and the helper spring on the pedal assembly. While the engine is out the time is right to do thermostat o-ring, oil pressure switch (red), throttle bushings (on top of the engine), airbox (maybe), injector sleeves/seals, breather hoses (probably), rear outboard engine mounts, and whatever else might show wear.

It's a very big job that requires lot's of hand tools and torque wrenches. Let me know if you're going to try this yourself, and also, how long has it been since the valve covers were off? It might not be a bad idea to check your head studs before doing all of the above work.

Hey, thank you, I love a good cigar from time to time! I do have to be careful, we've got an impressionable young one in the house!

flatsixnut

I will be putting the car up on jack stands Sat. Going to check out the cable to start. Yeah , yeah....not so exciting of a post, but I am a virgin when it comes to things like this so bare with me.

flatsixnut

If my car is pretty dirty on the underside of the engine (oil, grime, etc), would I be better off cleaning it before jacking it up to take a look? Would it be ok to take to a car wash bay and use degreaser and low pressure spray? If I did this, what should I avoid?

Peter Zimmermann

We did this often at the shop - when a car is too gruesome that you can't find the hardware that holds parts together...

Don't worry, there's nothing under there that you can hurt. I don't like using Gunk, etc., because most of that type of product states to apply to a cold engine. I've also heard that products like Simple Green can stain if left on the aluminum too long (I think that's what happened to my car long ago). Read labels, but I found that the local "25 Cent Do-It-Yourself Carwash" that's now about 6 bucks works the best - can't beat soapy water and high pressure spray.
You can do the heat exchangers, crankcase, oil return tube/cylinder areas, etc., even the oil reservoir and the rear wheel housings while you're under there. Avoid the heater boxes and hoses, but pretty much everything else is fair game.

flatsixnut

Gotta love this community! Besides the normal joe here on Rennlist that is always willing to help, we are so lucky to have guys here like Pete and Steve to give trusted info out so readily. Your opinion is well appreciated. Rennlist should pay you for your post count..its people like you that truely keep this place so strong.

Reminds me of the old saying "pay it forward". Hopefully one day I can be of some help to someone.

flatsixnut

I know I may not need this now...but just in case.

I did a search for engine stands, but the latest thread was dated 2006. Curious if there is any new info. The three dif ways I read about was...

1. Get the yolk for our 911's that fit on a stand. (Sounds way too expensive
2. Get and adapter that fits our 911's to mount on the stand.
3. Someone stated that they drilled extra holes in the stand mount to fit his
engine and tranny. (this sounds unsafe?)

Best place to buy what I need?

Amber Gramps

$132.70 -$199.00 http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...PEL-TOL-MCDENG

this is the part you are talking about. It can go into any standard engine stand.

sorry, gotta go. I'd like to stay and chat, but the wife wants me to take her for a drive in the 911. You loose.

Ed Hughes

No problem dropping the engine in your garage, you have plenty of room. It is a lot scarier thinking about it the first time than it really is. You are correct that you will end up taking advantage of it being out to do some odds and ends. When I did my clutch a few years ago, I bet I spent $2000 on parts all told. Things were a little cheaper then too.

Brett, I'm up for an engine drop when you're ready.

Donald: That looks like a pricey lift for what you get. I think their main selling point is you can stow it away when its not in use. But, you can buy a Bendpak or similar, get a better/taller lift with hydraulic power and simply park over it when not in use.

jsabatini

Hey neighbor, I am next door in Odessa. While I am not much of a mechanic, I would be glad to lend a hand for a drop party.

Hester

I can't wait for Brett to drop his engine...

That is a pricey lift for what you get and you're absolutely right that I can get a better/taller lift with hydraulic power for a lot less money. However, I think I may be willing to pay a premium for the portability, storability, and simplicity of that mechanical lift.

g-50cab

I did the ring adapter with a sams special engine stand. The engine stand did fold up - which was nice.

To get the car high enough I used two bottle jacks from two SUVs - it was easy to get the rear up high enough.

Ed Hughes

I don't know, I may be biased, but I think you'll be sorely disappointed in that. I'd stick with jackstands.