JACKING UP A 911 W/O SCREWING IT UP?
11-29-2001, 12:50 PM
#1
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JACKING UP A 911 W/O SCREWING IT UP?
I'M A NEW OWNER(1985 911) AND AM TAKING OFF THE FUCHS TO SEND THEM OFF TO BE POLISHED.
SO I WENT AND BOUGHT A FLOOR JACK
AND 4 JACK STANDS. I ALSO BOUGHT
THAT BENTLEY MANUAL(VERY COOL).
BUT IT DOESN'T TELL ME SAFE PLACES TO
PUT THE JACK STANDS OR THE BEST PLACE
TO USE A FLOOR JACK SO I DON'T SCREW UP
THE BOTTOM.
SO I WENT AND BOUGHT A FLOOR JACK
AND 4 JACK STANDS. I ALSO BOUGHT
THAT BENTLEY MANUAL(VERY COOL).
BUT IT DOESN'T TELL ME SAFE PLACES TO
PUT THE JACK STANDS OR THE BEST PLACE
TO USE A FLOOR JACK SO I DON'T SCREW UP
THE BOTTOM.
11-29-2001, 02:23 PM
#2
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There are a bunch of replies on this topic so do a search as some one will do a better job than me! But, here it goes:
the back is easy, put about a 6" 2x4 on your jack and center on the engine. Dont catch the exhaust. Jack the rear up until you can fit the jack stands on the ends of the torsion bar tubes. They are the black cylinders infront of the wheels, behind the black circles in the rockers. Put a rag on the jack so you dont munge the tubes.
Front is a little tougher, but still easy. Be carefull up front as there are oils lines and A/C lines to contend with. Use a wood block/hockey puck to grab the car where the control arm meets the chassis. I put the jack stand just behind the 2 bolts that mount it to the car, again use a rag to protect the car.
Main point here is be carefull! Cant say that enough. Rock the car a little to make sure it is stable. Be careful. This is not a big deal, take your time and use common sense.
Have fun
Chris
81 SC
the back is easy, put about a 6" 2x4 on your jack and center on the engine. Dont catch the exhaust. Jack the rear up until you can fit the jack stands on the ends of the torsion bar tubes. They are the black cylinders infront of the wheels, behind the black circles in the rockers. Put a rag on the jack so you dont munge the tubes.
Front is a little tougher, but still easy. Be carefull up front as there are oils lines and A/C lines to contend with. Use a wood block/hockey puck to grab the car where the control arm meets the chassis. I put the jack stand just behind the 2 bolts that mount it to the car, again use a rag to protect the car.
Main point here is be carefull! Cant say that enough. Rock the car a little to make sure it is stable. Be careful. This is not a big deal, take your time and use common sense.
Have fun
Chris
81 SC
I was going to post he question but SWIMWEAR beat me to it.
11-29-2001, 06:36 PM
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I use a jack pad that inserts into the factory jack port on either side of the car and a floor jack to raise the car. Then place the jack stands in the factory recommended spots, these locations are shown in the owner's manual.
11-29-2001, 07:21 PM
#5
you see those plastic caps on the side underneath the doors? pull those out and insert the 8" long metal thing from your jack kit or similar heavy duty bar if your original is missing. The 911 is so well balanced that both wheels will probably come off the ground simultaneously. You can put your rear jack stands underneath under the torsion bar covers (those thick metal tubes that stick out) I think I put the front stands right under the chassis inside and to the rear of the front wheels. You can use a folded up newspaper as extra protection without adding height. (make sure the floor is level and the stands are set to same height)
11-29-2001, 09:02 PM
#6
Race Car
While it's commonly practiced (even by mechanics), jacking with the engine case is something I'm not comfortable doing. I've seen Porsche experts warning against it.
11-29-2001, 11:39 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
I'm with Jack on this one. Supporting the weight of my car with the magnesium engine case? Not worth the risk to me.
If you are lifting an older car (I see that your's is an '85, so no worries here) with the factory jack point, you should check to make sure there is no body rust around the area. No much fun to collapse the side of your car this way.
There are four reinforced jacking points at the inboard corners near the wheel wells - I've used the fronts with the jack stand but typically use the torsion bar cover (as near to the inside as possible) for the rears.
When I work under the car, I'll often put the tires under the pan just in case. Sometimes you gotta yank on stuff hard...
Don
If you are lifting an older car (I see that your's is an '85, so no worries here) with the factory jack point, you should check to make sure there is no body rust around the area. No much fun to collapse the side of your car this way.
There are four reinforced jacking points at the inboard corners near the wheel wells - I've used the fronts with the jack stand but typically use the torsion bar cover (as near to the inside as possible) for the rears.
When I work under the car, I'll often put the tires under the pan just in case. Sometimes you gotta yank on stuff hard...
Don
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11-30-2001, 12:01 PM
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Any clue on how to identify these jacking points? It is up in the air and on jack stands safely. But I do need to get it down
when my rims return. So if there's anyway
you can describe to me what these reinforced
jacking point look like, that'd be helpful.
The bentley manual shows the car profile and
arrows but not an X marks the spot. Just trying not to ruin my car. Thanks.
when my rims return. So if there's anyway
you can describe to me what these reinforced
jacking point look like, that'd be helpful.
The bentley manual shows the car profile and
arrows but not an X marks the spot. Just trying not to ruin my car. Thanks.
11-30-2001, 02:39 PM
#9
Instructor
Some of the "reinforced" areas on the floorpan are areas where you have horizontal and vertical sections of sheet metal coming together. For instance, right behind your front wheel openings the underbody turns from a vertical surface to a horizontal surface. This area has more strength to it than an arbitrarily chosen flat area on the floorpan. Fortunately my car has little welded-on seats at the locations (and they're each located pretty close to an area as described above) for the shop lift/jack stand locations. I'm surprised it took the factory so long to finally put these little seats on the body.
Get one of those $15-$20 pads that Mark pictured (Pelican, Stoddard, Perf. Products, AJ-USA, et. al.) and you don't have to dig out your jack & tool kit.
I'm with the others on the motor lifting. I know the engine carrier is designed to handle the weight of the motor and the torque it generates, but it just doesn't seem proper to jack up the car by the motor casing.
Get one of those $15-$20 pads that Mark pictured (Pelican, Stoddard, Perf. Products, AJ-USA, et. al.) and you don't have to dig out your jack & tool kit.
I'm with the others on the motor lifting. I know the engine carrier is designed to handle the weight of the motor and the torque it generates, but it just doesn't seem proper to jack up the car by the motor casing.
11-30-2001, 04:40 PM
#10
Kevin wrote:
"Some of the "reinforced" areas on the floorpan are areas where you have horizontal and vertical sections of sheet metal coming together. For instance, right behind your front wheel openings the underbody turns from a vertical surface to a horizontal surface. This area has more strength to it than an arbitrarily chosen flat area on the floorpan."
As a point of trivial terminology these vertical ribs are called "pinch welds", and I use thes areas as well. I have also seen these lift points used in commercial shops when raising the car on a 4 point lift.
"Some of the "reinforced" areas on the floorpan are areas where you have horizontal and vertical sections of sheet metal coming together. For instance, right behind your front wheel openings the underbody turns from a vertical surface to a horizontal surface. This area has more strength to it than an arbitrarily chosen flat area on the floorpan."
As a point of trivial terminology these vertical ribs are called "pinch welds", and I use thes areas as well. I have also seen these lift points used in commercial shops when raising the car on a 4 point lift.
11-30-2001, 09:30 PM
#11
Race Car
Roland Kunz addressed this in an older post on Pelican. I'll quote it here, but bear in mind that English isn't his first language (Porsche is):
Hello
Has anyone looked in the operator's manual?
As far I remeber, the car is not supposed to be lifted on the crankcase.
As far I can remember, the workshop manual indicates lifting with a Steinbock lift at the following points:
1.) Rear engine mount. The lift sits directly under the steel case. The lift has a special deep retangular indent fitted. On race cars there is a tow hook with a jack plate welded on.
2.) The tranny, direct under the axle housing on the reinforcement rip.
3.) The forward steel transaxle mount.
4.) With the P 201 plate
If I would have used to lift the engine, my master would have thrown a tool at my head and kicked my out.
It was an absolute no-no to lift aluminium cases even if it was an old worn beetle.
He also would have slapped me if I would have lifted the engine on the heat exchangers.
I have seen punctured cases (especially the 3,2L bubble seems to be a bit risky ) and I know guys who started the wet case misery (oil seepage) by lifting the car on the magnesium case. I will not risk this on my own engines or on other engines. You guys do this once a year but I did it very often every day.
To make it easier, I had markings on the lift for the typical cars and jacking points.
Has anyone looked in the operator's manual?
As far I remeber, the car is not supposed to be lifted on the crankcase.
As far I can remember, the workshop manual indicates lifting with a Steinbock lift at the following points:
1.) Rear engine mount. The lift sits directly under the steel case. The lift has a special deep retangular indent fitted. On race cars there is a tow hook with a jack plate welded on.
2.) The tranny, direct under the axle housing on the reinforcement rip.
3.) The forward steel transaxle mount.
4.) With the P 201 plate
If I would have used to lift the engine, my master would have thrown a tool at my head and kicked my out.
It was an absolute no-no to lift aluminium cases even if it was an old worn beetle.
He also would have slapped me if I would have lifted the engine on the heat exchangers.
I have seen punctured cases (especially the 3,2L bubble seems to be a bit risky ) and I know guys who started the wet case misery (oil seepage) by lifting the car on the magnesium case. I will not risk this on my own engines or on other engines. You guys do this once a year but I did it very often every day.
To make it easier, I had markings on the lift for the typical cars and jacking points.
