2nd gear Gone?
06-26-2008, 06:57 PM
#16
Oh Crap,
Just received a call from my trusted wrench, Tony Callas, Callas RennSport Torrance the other day, while in for service, he stated my 2nd Gear is ready to explode.
Symptoms:
At High RPMs, I have to jam it into 2nd from 1st or wait for the RPMs to drop to get into gear.
Once in Second, it sounds like my tranny is going to fall right from under me. I mean loud as heck.
I hope Tony will be gentle with me.
Just received a call from my trusted wrench, Tony Callas, Callas RennSport Torrance the other day, while in for service, he stated my 2nd Gear is ready to explode.
Symptoms:
At High RPMs, I have to jam it into 2nd from 1st or wait for the RPMs to drop to get into gear.
Once in Second, it sounds like my tranny is going to fall right from under me. I mean loud as heck.
I hope Tony will be gentle with me.
06-26-2008, 09:42 PM
#17
Racer
Join Date: May 2007
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I know this has been brought up before...but how can you honestly claim $2,500 for a "rebuilt" 915 when it would cost $4,000 or more to do the work ourselves? Can you break down exactly what you do and what parts are replaced with new parts?
Not trying to bust any ***** here...I am just a little in the dark perhaps on prices. I have read tons of articles on rebuilding a 915, and no where have I seen the costs that low for a properly rebuilt 915.
Not trying to bust any ***** here...I am just a little in the dark perhaps on prices. I have read tons of articles on rebuilding a 915, and no where have I seen the costs that low for a properly rebuilt 915.
Okay: so I had a good box to begin with. 1st and 2nd gears needed nothing since they had been replaced by P.O.
I had to replace the syncros in 3rd, 4th, and 5th. I also had to replace the roller bearings on the final drive/output-pinion shaft (the cause of the re-build in the first place) ... all three sets.
So, quoting the invoice:
Parts ~~~~
Bearing, front pinion shaft : 274.95
Fork, release bearing: 114.95
pinion shaft nut: 9.95
mainshaft hexnut: 10.95
Shift sleeve 3-4 lg hub: 135.85
gasket set: 59.95
Bearing, pinion shaft rear: 174.95
Synchro rings (3-5): 99.95
Bearing, pinion shaft mid: 109.95
Labor ~~~~~~~
R&R engine+trans + replace oil: 641.23
Rebuild transmission: 690.55
Total: 2,323.23
Tax: 181.21
Grand total: 2,504.44
Okay. It was not a "grenaded" trans, and the box was in good shape. But the bulk of the important stuff was covered: pinion shaft bearings, and syncro's. And yes, I get very decent labor rates because I am a frequent customer to this shop. I won't say that it is a "complete rebuild." However, looking at the parts, what else could I possibly have done to freshen the box? Yes, I could have replaced dogteeth and gears, but since they were all in great condition, why spend where it's not necessary?
Also, the shop owner and the senior tech let me personally look at all the components prior to purchasing parts and re-assembly. they know what I know about tranny's and trusted my input.
So, I have a fresh box ready for the track, and the price didn't kill me, either.
FWIW: testes doing fine.
06-26-2008, 09:54 PM
#18
Racer
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Oh Crap,
Just received a call from my trusted wrench, Tony Callas, Callas RennSport Torrance the other day, while in for service, he stated my 2nd Gear is ready to explode.
Symptoms:
At High RPMs, I have to jam it into 2nd from 1st or wait for the RPMs to drop to get into gear.
Once in Second, it sounds like my tranny is going to fall right from under me. I mean loud as heck.
I hope Tony will be gentle with me.
Just received a call from my trusted wrench, Tony Callas, Callas RennSport Torrance the other day, while in for service, he stated my 2nd Gear is ready to explode.
Symptoms:
At High RPMs, I have to jam it into 2nd from 1st or wait for the RPMs to drop to get into gear.
Once in Second, it sounds like my tranny is going to fall right from under me. I mean loud as heck.
I hope Tony will be gentle with me.
Best of luck on it.
06-27-2008, 12:50 AM
#19
AutoX
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Trog,
Opinions vary on this, but I would recommend against the Wevo Gate shift. They are really expensive and not exactly a snap to install and fit. I would recommend going to a different shifter assy, they are much less expensive and will certainly help your issue. In terms of shorter gearing, you might want to consider a 7:31 ring and pinion, and see if that will lower your entire stack enough for your be comfortable with. This again might save you some money, however if you still wish to change gearing let me know, we have quite a selection of 901, 915, G50, 993, and 996 gears in stock and I would be happy to put a gearing chart together for you. LSD wise, there are a couple of options, there is the ZF (stock) which is fine for street if you do not drive too much, or there are a couple of aftermarket options as well. The one that I recommend if your budget allows for it is the Guard Transmission Differential. It is still the best one made, but not cheap. There is another option that would be less expensive, as well.
Give me a call if you have any questions. I know you did not ask for my .02 cents, but I like to type so now you have it. Oh yeah, I love my job too, so whenever I see that there is something that I might be able to help with, I try. Happy driving all.
Erik Johnson
Carquip Sales
(303) 443-1343 ext 2 work
(720) 980-9407 cell
Opinions vary on this, but I would recommend against the Wevo Gate shift. They are really expensive and not exactly a snap to install and fit. I would recommend going to a different shifter assy, they are much less expensive and will certainly help your issue. In terms of shorter gearing, you might want to consider a 7:31 ring and pinion, and see if that will lower your entire stack enough for your be comfortable with. This again might save you some money, however if you still wish to change gearing let me know, we have quite a selection of 901, 915, G50, 993, and 996 gears in stock and I would be happy to put a gearing chart together for you. LSD wise, there are a couple of options, there is the ZF (stock) which is fine for street if you do not drive too much, or there are a couple of aftermarket options as well. The one that I recommend if your budget allows for it is the Guard Transmission Differential. It is still the best one made, but not cheap. There is another option that would be less expensive, as well.
Give me a call if you have any questions. I know you did not ask for my .02 cents, but I like to type so now you have it. Oh yeah, I love my job too, so whenever I see that there is something that I might be able to help with, I try. Happy driving all.
Erik Johnson
Carquip Sales
(303) 443-1343 ext 2 work
(720) 980-9407 cell
Thanks for the tips. In an effort to improve shifting, I’ve already changed my shifter to a WEVO, changed all the bushings, and replaced the shift coupler with a Strompsky unit. It helped, however it's clear that 2nd (and 1st) gear synchros are on the way out. I want to build a bullet-proof gear box. A transmission suitable for racing and general abuse. I 'm prepared to spend whatever it takes. My local P-Car mechanic preps all the gear-boxes for the racing crowd. Plus they offer a 2-year warranty on all their work. My local PCA club recommends them highly. Within the next 2-weeks, I'll meet with the head honcho there are see what he recommends. I'm sure he'll agree with your recommendations.
Thx,
T
06-27-2008, 07:49 AM
#20
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So, I had my 915 partially rebuilt last year. Occasionally, changing up from 3rd to 4th it seems to slip out of gear. Like mentioned earlier, I'm probably exerting the slightest amount of pre-emptive pressure to the gear stick in anticipation, but it definitely feels like it wants to jump out by it'self. Is this due to a worn gear?
I've been having weird dreams about those Hargett shifters recently. I think I'm going to have to have one! I still haven't found a picture of what you do with the central climate control switch, and covering up the park brake seems a bit extreme for a daily driver. I saw a post where they extended the park brake forward to where the original shifter tunnel was. Anybody got any pics of what to do with the heater switch?
I've fitted a genuine short shift kit but to me it seemed to make no differnce whatsoever and its a bit of a stretch to the stick as I like to sit well back, where I can only just depress the clutch fully and I'm only 5' 10". Any closer and I feel like I'm eating the steering wheel!
I've been having weird dreams about those Hargett shifters recently. I think I'm going to have to have one! I still haven't found a picture of what you do with the central climate control switch, and covering up the park brake seems a bit extreme for a daily driver. I saw a post where they extended the park brake forward to where the original shifter tunnel was. Anybody got any pics of what to do with the heater switch?
I've fitted a genuine short shift kit but to me it seemed to make no differnce whatsoever and its a bit of a stretch to the stick as I like to sit well back, where I can only just depress the clutch fully and I'm only 5' 10". Any closer and I feel like I'm eating the steering wheel!
06-27-2008, 08:58 AM
#21
Burning Brakes
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06-27-2008, 05:01 PM
#23
06-27-2008, 07:21 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
06-27-2008, 07:42 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
Actually, the '86 cars are the last 915s (excuse me if this is what you meant!), '87 is the first G 50. I can't even imagine the costs and labor involved with replacing a 915 with a G 50, there is so much different with the two cars...
06-27-2008, 08:00 PM
#26
Three Wheelin'
You answered my question Pete. Sounds like it is not an easy transition. I have to have my 915 rebuilt, and I thought if it made sense, I would consider switching out with a G50. Guess that is out of the question. Actually, I really like the 915 even thought the syncros are all gone, so I imagine a rebuilt one will be quite nice.
06-28-2008, 08:38 PM
#28
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Update:
Well I skipped checking the linkage and went right for the fluid drain.
5 little teeth and quite a bit of fuzz stuck to the magnetic drain plug
Last time I changed the fluid I found 2 teeth. So 2nd is history.
Gonna take some time and figure out what to do. Flat Six is a local place that can rebuild and I'll probably do a clutch and some other stuff at the same time.
I've been putting off some other chores (sunroof, window seals etc...) Looks like this is my summer to work on the 911.
Looks Like I'll be riding the Guzzi alot more this year.
Well I skipped checking the linkage and went right for the fluid drain.
5 little teeth and quite a bit of fuzz stuck to the magnetic drain plug
Last time I changed the fluid I found 2 teeth. So 2nd is history.
Gonna take some time and figure out what to do. Flat Six is a local place that can rebuild and I'll probably do a clutch and some other stuff at the same time.
I've been putting off some other chores (sunroof, window seals etc...) Looks like this is my summer to work on the 911.
Looks Like I'll be riding the Guzzi alot more this year.
06-29-2008, 05:01 AM
#29
Drifting
Pete,
If I remember correctly, years ago I think my mechanic mentioned something about a G50 going in with a "shortened bellhousing"???
Aparently to clear the torsion bar tubes.
Do you know anything of this?
07-01-2008, 01:49 PM
#30
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Hey there Michael,
Well you bring up a good question, and that being how can we offer a rebuild unit for $2,500? Well it really depends on what the issue is with the gearbox in the first place. If the ring and pinion is bad, then we have some issues that would need to be addressed that would bring this price up substancially.
So where did I get this pricing from? Based on what we have seen here in general rebuilds, this is a pretty good starting point. It ranges though, to be honest depending on the amount of damage and replacement parts. While I agree that if you replaced every single bearing, all of the gears, all of the synchros, all of the internals, you would have a very expensive gearbox rebuild, this however is rarely the case.
What we do here is actually rather simple. We bring the gearbox in and tear it down to the ground. A build list is put together outlining every part that is in need of replacement. From there the customer is contacted with an outline of parts that will be replaced, as well as the firm cost of rebuild. From this point forward our pricing is then locked into place. The customer has the option at this point of moving forward with the build, or having us send it back.
I am sure that there are several people on this site that can attest to the quality and professionalism of Carquip. We have been doing this for over 30 years, and I can assure you that we do not cut corners. Once we have completed a rebuild it has a 12 month, 12,000 mile warranty on it.
Just to make sure that I have addressed this. I am not claiming to be able to rebuild a 915 gearbox for $2,500, we have done several of these gearboxes for this price, and occasionally for less. We have also had rebuilds cost a bit more, again, it really depends on what the issue is and how badly beat up the internals are.
I hope that this helps some, we certainly do not want there to be any mis-understanding as to the services that we provide and the quality and durability that accompanies all of our work here. Should anyone have any questions, at any point, please feel free to contact me directly. My work and cell number are below.
Warmest Regards,
Erik Johnson
Carquip Sales
(303) 443-1343 ext 2 work
(720) 980-9407 cell
Well you bring up a good question, and that being how can we offer a rebuild unit for $2,500? Well it really depends on what the issue is with the gearbox in the first place. If the ring and pinion is bad, then we have some issues that would need to be addressed that would bring this price up substancially.
So where did I get this pricing from? Based on what we have seen here in general rebuilds, this is a pretty good starting point. It ranges though, to be honest depending on the amount of damage and replacement parts. While I agree that if you replaced every single bearing, all of the gears, all of the synchros, all of the internals, you would have a very expensive gearbox rebuild, this however is rarely the case.
What we do here is actually rather simple. We bring the gearbox in and tear it down to the ground. A build list is put together outlining every part that is in need of replacement. From there the customer is contacted with an outline of parts that will be replaced, as well as the firm cost of rebuild. From this point forward our pricing is then locked into place. The customer has the option at this point of moving forward with the build, or having us send it back.
I am sure that there are several people on this site that can attest to the quality and professionalism of Carquip. We have been doing this for over 30 years, and I can assure you that we do not cut corners. Once we have completed a rebuild it has a 12 month, 12,000 mile warranty on it.
Just to make sure that I have addressed this. I am not claiming to be able to rebuild a 915 gearbox for $2,500, we have done several of these gearboxes for this price, and occasionally for less. We have also had rebuilds cost a bit more, again, it really depends on what the issue is and how badly beat up the internals are.
I hope that this helps some, we certainly do not want there to be any mis-understanding as to the services that we provide and the quality and durability that accompanies all of our work here. Should anyone have any questions, at any point, please feel free to contact me directly. My work and cell number are below.
Warmest Regards,
Erik Johnson
Carquip Sales
(303) 443-1343 ext 2 work
(720) 980-9407 cell