Rice

Guys,
Thanks for all your help.

Got all lights working except brake lights. I replaced brake light switches and fuses. The light bulbs worked according to our tool to check circuits. Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks, Rice

theiceman

if you by pass both switches do they come on ?

Rice

Don't know. I am going to see if my father in law can come over and check connectors again. I probably will buy new light bulbs also. This of course is a little frustrating. I have thought about buying a 3rd brake light but figure that the 3rd brake light won't work either since I can't get the regular brake lights to work.

dshepp806

Do conduct theiceman's test and get back with us...

While installing fresh bulbs (the correct ones, at that), do check out/clean the bulb socket(s).

Rice

I will do that. You know I bought this car and it may even have the wrong bulbs. I know they worked according to my father- n-law's voltage reader (I appologize since I can't remember what the tool is called) but that doesn't mean they belong in the brake light connector.

That would be crazy since I changed brake light switches and fuse. I keep telling myself that this is a learning experience. But damn, I want to drive this car.

Thanks, David

dshepp806

The tool he used is a VOM and he probably tested for continuity (ohms) at the bulb's connection points, verifying that the bulb filaments have continuity (are not open).

Not "crazy" at all,.....I'd be checking the simple things first, such as proper bulb selection...howsabout pulling 'em and throwing out the part # to us?

Did you say you had the CORRECT bulbs? Or that you still have yet to order them?

SURELY ye' purchased them from our great host, right?

the iceman's suggetion would verify that the path to the bulb(s) is fine,..assuming the brake switches were done correctly (AND that you've the right bulb in the there),..a good, simple test...

Best,

Amber Gramps

grounds?

Amber Gramps

slap me, but are we turning the key on when we are checking for light? no key, no power to that system as I remember...

Rice

Yes, I am turning the key. Great question though? I have heard of people not doing this. I have turned the key and tried brake light while car is running.

scarceller

To rule out the switch(s) simply unplug the connector from one of the Mstr Cyl switches (does not matter which one, unplug the front one easy to get to) then simply place a jumper to jumper the 2 pins in the connector turn the key and see if lights come on. This will bypass the switches and remove them from the equation.

Also with the key on you should have 12v on one of the pins in the connector. One pin is 12volts the other goes (feeds) to the lights. The brake light circuit in the Carrera is real simple.

84_Carrera

Methinks you've got Pelican & the "other" Forum on the brain.

dshepp806

oops....my bad......sorry 'bout that.

Best,

DRACO A5OG

If you are getting juice at the Brake Light Sockets, try the following:

With the battery disconnected for safety or be very carefull, use a pin tool bent at a 45 or 90 degree angle to pull/bend out the copper contacts so they will have a better contact with the bulbs. Reconnect the battery and try the Brakes again.

The SST is sold at Autozone for like $6.00, a set of 4 chrome tips with red handles , I use it all the time to find tap points for screws under carpets, speaker mount holes and other stuff

When I replaced all my bulbs, I found over time the contacts have lost their tension and had very little or no contact with the bulb's contact points. After pulling the copper contacts out and some di-electric lube the contact was better and illuminated the bulbs properly as PAG designed.

My 2 cents.

BTW do they even light up when you turn on the lights? Sorry to ask but do you have the 1157 bulb and placed in properly?

Rice

Guy,

All light issues resolved. Thanks again for your help.

We checked everything with the VOM and I had blown a fuse while working on it. Those fuses are touchy.

Just a recap for the future in case someone has the same problem:
After having put a new hazard relay and new brake switches, I change just about every bulb. We then noticed we were getting voltage from the master cylinder but not to the brake light. I ended up blowing a fuse in the process of working on the car. Changed fuse and it worked. Today, it took probably a couple of hours after checking battery, all bulbs, connectors, master switches and cylinder and fuses and putting the light covers on again.

It seems the fuses need checked consistenly when working on the car because they can blow very easlily.

Thanks again for your help. I probably spent about $50 so I saved hundreds doing it on my own. This car was driven as daily and my goal is to learn as much as possible. It is pretty much the first car that I have ever worked on so I have learned so much in so little time. I had never changed a fuse or relay before.

Thanks again.

dshepp806

Rice,

Great job.

Don't know if I'd say "the fuses blow very easily",...they'll surely blow at their rated amperage limit (as would any fuse). One has to be careful while working on it so as NOT to induce an overcurrent situation, thereby blowing the fuse.

In any case, good that you stayed with it. Attending "Rennlist University" is one educational process. Lotsa guys here who know there stuff at things far, far more challenging than your trek,...all willing to share their experiences.

...stay tuned, there's much more ahead.

Now,..drive it like you stole it.

Best,