Inniswhe

I am adjusting the clutch on my recently acquired 911 and have run into a snag . Clutch adjustment was identified as a issue during PPI
I set the 1.2 mm gap at the lever with the cable disconnected per Bentley manual but when I connect the cable and try to set the 1.0 preload gap the lever just comes forward on the omega spring and the gap closes. I can push the lever ahead slightly with my hand and the cable disconnected and the lever stays in that position. Does this mean my omega spring is history ?

See pictures below first two are the normal omega spring position and then when I slightly push the spring forward it rocks or cams over to the new position (3rd pic) See the gap between the spring leafs, is that normal ?
Note that in this 3rd picture the cable is still not connected so this helper spring has no snap or is bound.







Pete if you are out there, it is Ross in PEI, Canada here. You gave me some advice last fall as I was searching for my first 911. Thanks , I appreciated it . I ended up buying this 84 in Boston.

84_Carrera

I had to replace the Omega a couple of summers ago, and I believe the gaps is abnormal - I don't recall seeing it on mine when the new one went in.

I absolutely could be wrong though.

One thing I have noticed is, when I reinstalled my exchangers when replacing the gaskets recently, if I let off the clutch rapidly, it'll make contact on them again, so I've got to fiddle back there some more.

Good luck!

Peter Zimmermann

Ross: It looks like you might have more than one problem. The "leafs" of the spring don't look good, and you also have an original clutch cable. Warning, we might be opening up a can of worms here! There are a number of things that might be wrong, including (1) the forward anchor point for the clutch cable might be worn badly, (2) the throw out bearing might be binding on the TOB guide tube, (3) the vertical shaft between the throw out bearing fork and cable arm might be binding, etc. You should probably start by ordering/replacing the omega spring and cable. Make absolutely sure that you get an o.e. cable, there are after market ones out there that say "Made in West Germany" in white letters on the bowden tube and they are junk. When you order the cable also get a new clevis pin, clevis fork, and plastic bushing for where the front end of the cable connects. I guess that's all we can do until you have the spring and cable out of the car. Let us know what you're going to do...

dsmith

Yes, that's an understatement! It's missing almost half of the spring! Along with Pete's suggestion, and by the looks of your pic, you need to find all of those oil leaks. Once you have a good idea on the leaks, you can remove the engine/trans, clean it all up, fix the leaks and inspect/replace the worn clutch parts.

There are still suppliers who have the omega spring. I would suggest buying 2 or 3, depending on how long you plan to own it. They are currently NLA.

Budget $1500 in parts. If your transmission is grinding, triple that figure.

Gosh, I feel like I just did all of this.
David

Inniswhe

To take Pete's advice and order a new cable and associated parts along with the spring, and other bits noted. The cable seems to move fine actually seems to be in good shape. I am surprised if it is original but maybe so. Good time to replace at any rate.

Does anyone know where the spring can be found mail order ?Pelican has them listed as no longer available.

The car shifted pretty well before I disconnected the clutch to adjust. The clutch felt fine but the tranny is a little notchy going into 2nd when it is cold .I expect that the 2nd gear synchro is failing but it did not seem to be bad enough to warrant tearing down the transmission yet. I do want to sort through the clutch however to ensure it is set correctly and disengaging sufficiently to unload the tranny.This was identified in the thorough PPI I had done at European Performance in Boston. Their advice was get the clutch properly adjusted and see if it improves shifting some.


Other items:

Oil leaks - there are no oil leaks on the car sufficient to put a drop on my garage floor. Car has been there for a month and floor still dry. There is evidence of oil leakage around the rear axle seals as identified in the PPI The wet spots you see in the pictures is the PB blaster I sprayed to ensure the adjustment bolts were free before I tried to adjust the clutch. I also sprayed a bunch around the leafs to see if the springs were frozen together , they are not.

Leafs missing half - this one is strange to me I . I know what you mean it doesn't look like any pictures I have seen either so I suspect it is an aftermarket replacement that was not OEM ? Probably of lesser quality.


At the end of the day if I have to pull the engine/transmission out to get at the clutch so be it. I bought this car as a project anyway. I live a long way from any good porsche mechanics so I entirely intend to become intimate with the inner working of a car that I have wanted for most of my life. I am the type that enjoys journey as much as getting there so if I have a bad clutch/transmission I guess I will be learning a great deal about them one bolt at a time.

I will update after I get some replacement parts shipped in.

Ross

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Au Contraire',.... New horseshoe springs are available anytime. Both early and late styles are still made although neither one is cheap anymore (much like everything else).

How many would you like????

dsmith

Did they switch part numbers?

On rockauto.com, I see this #: 915-116-064-01 $81.79

If I search it on Pelican, it goes to this #, which is available: 915-116-064-01-M260 $78.25

If you search through the parts list on Pelican, you see this # as NLA: 915-116-064-00-M260

I don't need any right now, since I sold my car. But it's good to know.

Inniswhe

Whenever I went looking for the helper spring I ended up at the no longer available note on Pelican. When I searched the part number as you suggest I found the replacement part number.

The cluch cable, spring, clevis, clevis pin, and bushing are all on order now from Pelican

I will update when I get theparts installed.

Ross

Peter Zimmermann

Innis: Sounds good, if you have a doubt about the condition of the shaft for the clutch pedal, where the cable connects, post a big "help!"

The reason that I know that your cable is still original is that it still has the lock ring (spring ring) on the end of the rubber boot. Replacement cables don't have one.

Good luck with the project!

dsmith

The springs crack/break and fall off. I replaced mine after it broke, before it fell off. When you get the new one, it will be really obvious. I don't think there are any aftermarket ones, but Steve would know. Maybe they were still attached during the PPI, cuz that would have needed immediate replacement.

Inniswhe

dsmith,

It's kind of strange, that spring sure doesn't look pretty but the clutch felt fine to drive just as you see it. It was too weak to show the specified gap but the clutch never slipped. I do expect the pedal effort will be reduced with the replacement spring however. It wasn't objectionably stiff or anything as it was but I don't have any reference point to compare.

I will pull the cover off the pedals to get a look at what I am into at that end. I peaked in behind the gas pedal and the clevis pin looked nice and shiny and in excellent shape appearance wise so hopefully things are good in there but will post when I open her up properly. When I pulled the rubber sleave back at the tranny end the cable looked totally rust free as well.

This care amazes me how little rust there is for a 24 year old carfrom the northeast. I really doubt it ever saw a winter and suspect many hibernations in a garage.

dsmith

This article will help you, and has better pics of an unbroken spring.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...utch_cable.htm

Inniswhe

I had already reviewed that article in detail when I searched for an answer to my questions. I will be using it along with my Bentley and 101 projects books for the repalcement exercise.

Ross

Inniswhe

I removed the old cable today as well as the lever assembly holding the helper spring. Upon close inspection the helper spring leafs look like they broke off somewhere in the past. I hope that the spring replacement is all it takes.

The clutch cable is in great shape especially for a 24 yr old component. There is no signs of rust anywhere or broken strands etc.The clevis assembly as well were in almost perfect shape. There is slight ware on the pin but that was the only where I could find anywhere.
If I didn't order a replacement cable unit I would say it is not necessary to change this one unless they fatigue over time ? I will change anyway since shipping to send the new unit back will be probably half the value of the part and I don't want to be back in here in another year or two.
Even the plastic bushing seems fine. I will replace that as well if it is possible without taking out the entire pedal assembly. Is it pressed in ?

I see there is some grease on the cable. Is that normal or is that a sign of maintenance in the past ?

The removed clutch lever assembly at the tranny end seems to be fine as well, no binding etc.

I suspect after reassembly with the new spring and cable that if my slightly notchy when cold 2nd gear remains it is in the tranny and a future synchro replacement project will be needed.

I am also replacing shifter bushings and axle seals. The axle seals will result in a new batch of swepco so that may help a little . I will update after I get through this exercise or if I run into further snags along the way.

Ross

Peter Zimmermann

What happens to old cables is the inside of the bowden tube breaks down. Of course, you can't see it, but it happens. You will not believe how good the clutch will feel when you're done! The work that you're doing will not help 2nd gear, but it will make the car nicer to drive. Definitely replace the clevis pin/arm bushing...