Help with Clutch Helper Spring (Omega)
#16
***At the end of the day if I have to pull the engine/transmission out to get at the clutch so be it***
If you do arrive at the point of dropping the eng/trans out, there is a nifty oval tool that goes into the hole in your roll around floor jack replacing the plate that is the lifting part. It fits around the sump drain and is slotted for the trans. With this tool the 911S was a one man job. The 911SC parts car needed a balance person for the engine as it came down and the trans needed the small jack on the front to drop it level. Trick tool if you dont have one.
If you do arrive at the point of dropping the eng/trans out, there is a nifty oval tool that goes into the hole in your roll around floor jack replacing the plate that is the lifting part. It fits around the sump drain and is slotted for the trans. With this tool the 911S was a one man job. The 911SC parts car needed a balance person for the engine as it came down and the trans needed the small jack on the front to drop it level. Trick tool if you dont have one.
#17
Pete - 2nd gear notchy
Pete,
I suspect that the suspicion on the clutch adjustment impact on the occasional notchy 2nd gear shift was that if there was too much play in the cable there would possibly be a situation where the clutch was not fully disengaging.
When I looked at the setup under the car I do not think that was the case so I too am very doubtful that the clutch had much to do with the shifting.
I will set the cablel per the recommended settings to confirm. I am also curious of my gear oil level as there is evidence of some leaking in the axle seals. I am replacing those as well and filling with the recommended Swepco oil.
I suspect with reasonable driving habits there is still quite a bit of life left in the tranny before I need to go in there because I was able to avoid it with careful shifting after only a few minutes driving and I am new to 911's
Ross
I suspect that the suspicion on the clutch adjustment impact on the occasional notchy 2nd gear shift was that if there was too much play in the cable there would possibly be a situation where the clutch was not fully disengaging.
When I looked at the setup under the car I do not think that was the case so I too am very doubtful that the clutch had much to do with the shifting.
I will set the cablel per the recommended settings to confirm. I am also curious of my gear oil level as there is evidence of some leaking in the axle seals. I am replacing those as well and filling with the recommended Swepco oil.
I suspect with reasonable driving habits there is still quite a bit of life left in the tranny before I need to go in there because I was able to avoid it with careful shifting after only a few minutes driving and I am new to 911's
Ross
#18
One other question - clevis bushing
How difficult is it to remove the clevis pin bushing without removing the pedal assembly?
I have the bushing on order and as per Pete's recommendation I plan on replacing it.
I have the bushing on order and as per Pete's recommendation I plan on replacing it.
#19
Rennlist Member
The bushing is easy, just hold the clutch pedal down and you will see the bushing in the end of the arm. Push it out in either direction, and push the new one in. While you're in there be sure that the pedal assist spring (on the left side of the pedal tray) is in good condition and not squeaking.
Regarding 2nd gear, if the clutch was to blame the same thing would happen in 1st... always use the "two-part shift" technique and 2nd gear synchro should last a while (hopefully!).
Regarding 2nd gear, if the clutch was to blame the same thing would happen in 1st... always use the "two-part shift" technique and 2nd gear synchro should last a while (hopefully!).