Oshin11

First one should be pretty straight forward: There are four "ticks" on my crankshaft. One is top dead center (TDC) and the other two are for the 120 degree rotation for the valve adjustments. What is the tick slightly to the right of TDC for? For information sake I do not have the "Z1" stamp that most books say I should, instead one of the ticks was painted red, I'm guessing by a former mechanic who worked on the car.


Second: I read on a thread that one should use the rule that you put in the feeler gauge, tighten down to the gauge, remove the gauge and try to reinsert it. This gives a good check of your work. However, I find that after I was all done with my valve adjustment, when I went back to redo everything to make sure all was right.....I found that some were tighter than others. Even during the process I felt this. I guess my question is "what is the right feel?" Should it be pretty difficult to get the feeler gauge in, but still able to get it in? Or should it be fairly easy to get in, but not too easy to get in? Is the rule to get it as tight as possible but still able to get the feeler gauge in? I guess this will get easier with experience but its my first time and I dont want to hear knocking when I fire up my car.

psychoideas

I think the Red mark will be the timing mark applicable to your car. i.e. mine is at 5 degrees After Top Dead Centre.

I think the feeler should slip in rather easily. If I do my car at 4 thou, I then try and get a 5 thou to go in. It should not. Then I try the 4 thou again.
There are many methods for checking tappet clearance on our cars. Some use the back of the cam lobe but I’m not quite sure how to do this but I’m sure someone will chime in.
Good luck.

imcarthur

And some links . . .

Racer 2.7 Backside Method

The Backside Method

Ian

Oshin11

Hmmm links do not work for me

PorscheMD

The mark about an inch to the right of the TDC is a timing mark to check advance. It is a 26deg BTDC. For info sake Z1 is TDC. You are correct about all other marks you have mentioned

imcarthur

Those are Pelican posts, but they seem to be down this afternoon. Just try them later. I was very frustrated with the standard adjust method. I had it apart twice & it still wasn't right. The backside method solved my problem & it is truly go or no-go with no doubt involved.

Ian

Amber Gramps

I purchased three different sets of gauges this morning. I remember someone saying the bent gauge was the way to go. Is that correct?

Oshin11

Bent gauge? Not sure what you are talking about, give me a call.

What I did learn though, is that its all experience and "feel". The first valve took me so long, just finding the damn stem and recognizing what was what confused me. Once I got through the first exhaust and intake valve it got a little easier. You just have to be very methodical.

Amber Gramps

and what gaskets did you use? Every one I talk to tells me a different story on new gaskets. Some like thin on top and thick on bottom, some say stock and some say silicone. I difinatly have a tap on the passenger side and have a slightly less than perfect idle. ....and with the $450-$550 quote I got for this job, I think I'll try it myself.

Oshin11

LOL I didn't even know there was an issue about gaskets. Theyre just GASKETS I bought the gasket kit from Pelican, I am sure it'll be fine. My muffler gasket was too large, it was a Porsche part that I got from NAPA auto parts, who knows if the one on pelican is smaller but again, its just a gasket.

Amber Gramps

I can't get pelican to come up at all or performance to come up properly.

old man neri

Ya, I wouldn't worry too much about gaskets. I have used the pelican's cheaper ones twice and never leaked a drop.

imcarthur

Ditto. And when I was doing the valve adjustment last summer, I re-used the cheap Pelican gasket & nuts 3 times which seemed to horrify many. In fact they're still on. A few oozes of oil on a couple of nuts initially & then nothing.

Ian

Vino

I just did this a month ago and my dealer quoted me $800

Trust me, I can see $250 to $300 max.

Anyway, I did the back side method as well and all is beautiful. All the valves on the car were either too tight or loose, none were on spec...
She is very quiet and power delivery is fantastic.

It took me two days to do it since I have about 5 hours a pop, that included checking the head studs and cleaning the valve covers and full tune up.

I used reqular gap gauges, nothing fancy, the whole set was like $12.-

As for gaskets I used the silicon lower non silicon upper. Torqued everything perfect and no leaks.

It truly is a priceless feel since you learn more about the car and save some money towards more important things down the road if it needs to be handed to a pro.

MDL

You need the feeler gauge specific to your 911. I think it would darn near impossible to adjust valves on a 911 without the gauge.


http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg4.htm#item23

You should feel a slight drag on the gauge when the valve is adjusted correctly. Make sure the engine is COLD.

As far as gaskets, just use the gaskets Pelican offers, just be sure both surfaces are CLEAN.

Happy Adjusting...