Vino, I think I'm doing the backside method. I just purchased the $37.25 reg top silicone bottom kit from pelican. (Im wearing my Performance Products jacket) That was my first order with them. It was easy. I haven't done valves in 20 years so how much torque on the rocker? I am just scared of them coming loose.

 

The key here is to not OVER tighten them. Valve cover nuts: 6ft-lb

Ian

Edit: Just ignor me while I look the RIGHT one up . . .

 

Hmmm. Can't find it. But it's only a lock nut. So torque isn't critical. Firmly, but not gorilla tight.

Ian

 

When I posted the first time, I had not read the link to the back side method. I might try it next time, although I never had any trouble adjusting them the old way. Just goes to show you learn something new every day!

 

I like using the backside method, its much nicer, however everytime I do a "once round" to check them all again, there is one that is always loose or tight. I fix it, then do another round, and find another one, I feel like im going in circles!!!

 

This is starting to get really annoying, now my cylinder 5 intake rocker arm is starting to strip on the screw, this is pissing me off so much.

 

The valve lash spec is .004 +/- .002 (from memory) Using the backside method you are adjusting them between .0025 and .003 (that's +/- .0005, which is not a lot.) Eventually just accept that it's good enough, that's what I did.

 

That and the dropped nut! I'm starting to get frightened!
I started my first ever (last maybe?) valve adjustment today. I tried to turn my crankshaft to find TDC and the crank wouldn't turn. The fan spins, but apparently my belt is too loose to turn the crank.
Tried to free up the nut on the fan axle so I could re-arrange the shims... alas, no. It's stuck tight. Maybe I'll get it busted loose tomorrow.

Glad to hear you were able to retrieve the wayward nut.

I'll share my valve adjustment horror stories as they arise.

 

Make sure to put a bit of PB Blaster on it tonight that way it will be able to work it's way in overnight.

 

That's what I did before I called it a night.

 

The MAIN thing is to take it slowly & methodically. If you get pissed off,walk away for an hour or go at it the next day. And re-check but don't get too crazed. I did mine 3 times over 6 weeks before I was happy & clack-free (with thanks to 2.7 Racer).

To turn the fan, just push in on the belt slightly as you rotate.

Ian

 

Do you mean to push on the belt as I crank the fan (i.e. to make the crankshaft move)?

Zen and the Art of Porsche Maintenance. Got it

 

Ok so here is the aftermath. It was not just me getting ticked off. Two of my intake valve rocker arm adjustment screws (cylinders 1 and 5) were partially stripped. This is why, I believe, they kept coming loose. If I had not been **** and done it 6 times I would not have caught it. I am guessing this is the reason my valves got noisy after only 4000-5000 miles after my last valve adjust, and that the mechanic didnt triple check his work like I did. Well two knew rocker arm screws are on their way, at a whopping price of 40 dollars!!! Hopefully this will correct everything. I think I'll buy an extra screw incase another rocker arm decides they want to play games. I'm glad I caught this deeper problem, or at least what I think is the deeper problem....I hope its not something worse

 

911 Vet in response to your inquiry, my fan belt was way loose, in fact I could see the slippage as the car was running (you see a slight periodic slowing down and speeding up in the fan rate). I put on a new belt that I had in my trunk and bam a lot less slippage. However, there was still some slippage because I found that turning the motor went through cylces of "wow thats tough" and "turning like butter". I hope this is not another problem with my fan. Does anyones fan turn clean and require the same amount of "umph" throughout the turning of the motor? Mine goes through about 6 cycles of easy and hard through an entine rotation from TDC to TDC.

 

A picture of the stripped screws, once removed from the rocker arm I trying to get the nuts off the screws. On one screw, I couldn't even get the nut off, it completely stripped out and just turned, going nowhere. On the other screw I am able to get it off but it gets tough to turn right about the point which is used in the adjustment process. In order to get a proper adjustment of the valves I think you need the nut to be able to freely go along the screw path.