Notices
911 Forum 1964-1989
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Intercity Lines, LLC

ZDDP/oil additive discussion

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-16-2007, 07:10 PM
  #1  
bgiere
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
bgiere's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in a racecar somewhere...
Posts: 3,369
Received 51 Likes on 42 Posts
Default ZDDP/oil additive discussion

Hate to add more confusion to the theories but I saw this and thought it may be helpful.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...941647&fpart=1

http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/c...TRY=1&SRETRY=0

Last edited by bgiere; 11-16-2007 at 07:14 PM. Reason: link
Old 11-17-2007, 11:35 AM
  #2  
gunlover05
Racer
 
gunlover05's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

all this stuff seems confusing to me...has anyone sorted through all this with confidence and have a recommendation for what oil or additive we should use??
Old 11-17-2007, 12:44 PM
  #3  
old man neri
Drifting
 
old man neri's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Newfoundland
Posts: 2,034
Likes: 0
Received 92 Likes on 56 Posts
Default

That's it, I give up, from now on I am just going to be running olive oil in the engine. I don't understand motor oil anymore.
Old 11-17-2007, 02:37 PM
  #4  
imcarthur
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
imcarthur's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Land of the Ptarmigan
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I agree. The experts go on & on with all of this data & chemical signs & acronyms & somehow we are supposed to make informed choices.

I'll admit, I know nothing about the subject other than the threads on Rennlist & Pelican. The easiest thread for product discovery is Ultimate Motor Oil Thread or Why we hate CJ4/SM oils on Pelican.

The thread author has been keeping a scorecard of the 'approved' oils in the 1st post in the thread:

Brad Penn Racing Oils (same as the old Kendall from the '70s);
SWEPCO 306;
Redline;
Royal Purple;
Castrol GTX High Mileage
Mobil 1 V-Twin MC 20w-50.
Mobil 1 MX4T 10w40
Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50
Amsoil m/c Harley V-twin 20w50
Castrol Syntec "Classic" 20w50
Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 -it is marked "Non-Street Legal".

Further on in the thread are more specifics since there are multiple Brad Penn oils etc if you wish to wade through it. BTW the Penn oil is: #7119 Penn Grade 1 Racing 20W-50

Ian

Old Man: Check the Pelican - Canada Board for a group Penn oil buy for $38.43 for 12
Old 11-17-2007, 03:03 PM
  #5  
gunlover05
Racer
 
gunlover05's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by imcarthur
I agree. The experts go on & on with all of this data & chemical signs & acronyms & somehow we are supposed to make informed choices.

I'll admit, I know nothing about the subject other than the threads on Rennlist & Pelican. The easiest thread for product discovery is Ultimate Motor Oil Thread or Why we hate CJ4/SM oils on Pelican.

The thread author has been keeping a scorecard of the 'approved' oils in the 1st post in the thread:

Brad Penn Racing Oils (same as the old Kendall from the '70s);
SWEPCO 306;
Redline;
Royal Purple;
Castrol GTX High Mileage
Mobil 1 V-Twin MC 20w-50.
Mobil 1 MX4T 10w40
Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50
Amsoil m/c Harley V-twin 20w50
Castrol Syntec "Classic" 20w50
Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 -it is marked "Non-Street Legal".

Further on in the thread are more specifics since there are multiple Brad Penn oils etc if you wish to wade through it. BTW the Penn oil is: #7119 Penn Grade 1 Racing 20W-50

Ian

Old Man: Check the Pelican - Canada Board for a group Penn oil buy for $38.43 for 12

Now you are talking....I'll just take that list with me next time i need oil...now i'll just go back to sleep...
Old 11-17-2007, 03:25 PM
  #6  
drew3007
Track Day
 
drew3007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: California, US
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hello everyone. I am new to the forums but not to Porsches. I have been a Porsche mechanic for some years and my father has owned the local Porsche repair shop my whole life. At the shop, for any air cooled 911s made prior to 1995 we will usually use castrol GTX 20-50. That oil will be good for 5000 miles or 6 months.

For newer 911s (993 or newer) we will use Castrol Syntec 5-40. The 5-40 is a euro grade oil that you can get in the US but you usually have to have your local parts store order it. It is a Porsche approved synthetic and we have found that it works better with cooling that the Mobil 1. That oil will be good for 7500 miles or 1 year.

Please note that the time the oil is in the car is just as significant as the millage. Oil breaks down over time just like it would from use.

The reason why use the GTX in the older cars (we even put it in 356s) is because of the start-up protection it provides. This is the most important factor when you are dealing with older cars.

Insofar as oil additives are concerned, we usually don't use them. If there is valve-train noise then it is just time for a valve adjustment, not an oil additive. We do have a BG oil additive on hand though for 944 valve-train noise and just grumpy old 928s as well. I don't and have not seen a reason to use them in a 911.

That is my very long 2 cents speaking from experience.
Old 11-17-2007, 03:41 PM
  #7  
imcarthur
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
imcarthur's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Land of the Ptarmigan
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Drew

We're talking older air-cooled engines. You might want to start reading that thread:

"I'll also add the caveat that I don't recommend running Castrol GTX for more than 3,000 mi either. In our field testing, it broke down rather quickly (consumption of detergents, Zn, and P) compared to other oils."

"I also hear that Castrol is coming up with a "Classic" line of oils with SG levels of Zn and P - the new Castrol Syntec "Classic" 20w50 is already on their web site. I'm figuring this is the first clear response to our demands for an appropriate oil for older cars in mind from the big oil companies."

Both in posts by cnavarro who does appear to have some knowledge on the subject.

And I repeat, I know nothing, I'm simply the bearer.

Ian
Old 11-17-2007, 04:43 PM
  #8  
DarrylH
Burning Brakes
 
DarrylH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 980
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default ???

Originally Posted by drew3007
... The reason why use the GTX in the older cars (we even put it in 356s) is because of the start-up protection it provides. This is the most important factor when you are dealing with older cars. ...
Not to be difficult, but isn't this backwards? A 20W-anything is gonna give worse startup behaviour than a 0W- or 5W-, isn't it? Or am I completely misunderstanding something?
Old 11-17-2007, 06:04 PM
  #9  
Brads911sc
Racer
 
Brads911sc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

people are way too obsessed with this whole topic IMHO... I found an Exxon Superflow 20W50 at my local parts house... Its SL rated. They also had an SL (pre 2004 applications) rated Valvoline. You dont need to travel around the world to find oil that was the "standard" for most of the lives of our 80's porsche engines. I have stopped using Castrol GTX at the recommendation of the experts... but good SL rated oils are not hard to find... and you dont need to pay $60 a case for Brad Penn to get a decent SL rated oil...
Old 11-17-2007, 06:30 PM
  #10  
LaughaC
Burning Brakes
 
LaughaC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Nashville x-burbs
Posts: 955
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Arrow

Brad Pitt sells motor oil? Maybe he can talk my wife into working on my car with me...
Old 11-17-2007, 06:34 PM
  #11  
Brads911sc
Racer
 
Brads911sc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Brad Penn not Brad Pitt. HAHA. That was a good one..
Old 11-17-2007, 08:20 PM
  #12  
old man neri
Drifting
 
old man neri's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Newfoundland
Posts: 2,034
Likes: 0
Received 92 Likes on 56 Posts
Default

Ian,

Ya, I looked at that. Thanks for the thought. I just changed my oil a week ago. I went with an elf synthetic. I got it here locally at a porsche shop. I am not overly obsessed about the subject as some are. No doubt by the time I need to do another oil change all the information, facts, and recommendations will have changed

Cheers!
Old 11-23-2007, 03:58 PM
  #13  
drew3007
Track Day
 
drew3007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: California, US
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by imcarthur
Drew

We're talking older air-cooled engines. You might want to start reading that thread:

"I'll also add the caveat that I don't recommend running Castrol GTX for more than 3,000 mi either. In our field testing, it broke down rather quickly (consumption of detergents, Zn, and P) compared to other oils."

"I also hear that Castrol is coming up with a "Classic" line of oils with SG levels of Zn and P - the new Castrol Syntec "Classic" 20w50 is already on their web site. I'm figuring this is the first clear response to our demands for an appropriate oil for older cars in mind from the big oil companies."

Both in posts by cnavarro who does appear to have some knowledge on the subject.

And I repeat, I know nothing, I'm simply the bearer.

Ian
I do understand that it was about older air cooled but since it was in the all encompasing air cooled 911 forum I would post my experience with both oldre and "newer" 911s. That is interesting though. I have not read, heard nor experienced that in my dealings with GTX. I will certainly look into it though. I don't want to say it is wrong or right at this point however.

Originally Posted by DarrylH
Not to be difficult, but isn't this backwards? A 20W-anything is gonna give worse startup behaviour than a 0W- or 5W-, isn't it? Or am I completely misunderstanding something?
The lower the first number, the less viscosity the oil is. So a lower number would have less viscosity (thinner) when cold and that provides less start-up protection (thicker provides protection). The second number is actually how much the oil will be allowed to change. So 20W-50 is a 20 weight with an allowable +/- 50 change according to heat. 0W-40 is just that, 0weight. Not recommended at all to be used in older cars.
Old 11-23-2007, 04:20 PM
  #14  
old man neri
Drifting
 
old man neri's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Newfoundland
Posts: 2,034
Likes: 0
Received 92 Likes on 56 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by drew3007
The lower the first number, the less viscosity the oil is. So a lower number would have less viscosity (thinner) when cold and that provides less start-up protection (thicker provides protection). The second number is actually how much the oil will be allowed to change. So 20W-50 is a 20 weight with an allowable +/- 50 change according to heat. 0W-40 is just that, 0weight. Not recommended at all to be used in older cars.
I always thought the second number meant what the wieght of the oil was when it reached 100*C. As for the thinner grades, understand that not everyone lives in SoCal. Run 20W50 up here and see what happens when it gets cold.
Old 11-23-2007, 05:43 PM
  #15  
bgiere
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
bgiere's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in a racecar somewhere...
Posts: 3,369
Received 51 Likes on 42 Posts
Default

Drew3007, you have it backwards...A less viscous oil provides more protection on startup...At operating temp a 0w40 and a 10w40 are the same viscosity....


Quick Reply: ZDDP/oil additive discussion



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 02:15 AM.