SC Valve adjustment
10-18-2007, 09:05 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Decatur, AL
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SC Valve adjustment
Is it worth the time to remove the CAT to adjust the valves. It seems that the better access might save more time than the time required to R & R the CAT.
10-18-2007, 01:48 PM
#3
Racer
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it's not a problem with the appropriate screwdriver. i find it difficult to adjust the valves in the car, even with a lift, so i drop the motor. before and after adjusting with the proper gauge, use the "go/no go" method to check if they need adjusting and for piece of mind after you've done an adjustment.
getting the cat off with rusted bolts is not that easy. budget about 2 hrs to get it off, depending on how much you have to use the dremel. get new gaskets and hardware or you'll have a good exhaust leak.
getting the cat off with rusted bolts is not that easy. budget about 2 hrs to get it off, depending on how much you have to use the dremel. get new gaskets and hardware or you'll have a good exhaust leak.
10-18-2007, 02:44 PM
#4
Legacy Flounder
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cumberland, RI
Posts: 3,439
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
+1
I have copper gaskets & good hardware on my Euro Premuffler (which by itself opens up some room), and I still like to remove it for better access.
I have copper gaskets & good hardware on my Euro Premuffler (which by itself opens up some room), and I still like to remove it for better access.
10-18-2007, 05:05 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Mahopac, NY
Posts: 966
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hmmm....that's a good idea. I may try that on my next valve adjustment.
I'm definitely going to try the go/no-go method as a check. Valve adjustment is so subjective. I never really felt comfortable. I'm hoping the go/no go method gives me that sure feeling. And helps me learn the right "feel" of what it should be.
I'm definitely going to try the go/no-go method as a check. Valve adjustment is so subjective. I never really felt comfortable. I'm hoping the go/no go method gives me that sure feeling. And helps me learn the right "feel" of what it should be.
10-18-2007, 05:10 PM
#6
Team Owner
Fred I remember you having issue when you did it last time . I t was a really good thread , when you got everyhitng aligned there was still tension on the valves and If i remember from your desription you were doing everything right. Did you ever get to the bottom of that ?
10-18-2007, 05:37 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
OK, guys, for you who want to do your own valve adjustments, this might help. Each of the tools pictured started life as the same tool, and eventually, by refining them, they became what you see in the pictures. With this system there is no excuse to work with damaged (scratched or bent) shim stock. As soon as damage occurs, slide the lock back a little on the shaft, pull the shim stock through until you have a suitable piece, fold and break the shim, then touch up the edge with a bench grinder wheel, or file. Much quicker than the o.e. tool, easier (for me, anyway) to hold, no lost, tiny screws, and it simplifies the job of getting under the cat. .004" shim stock is available from your friendly SnapOn truck (they're about 10" long), but I can't remember who I bought the holders from, probably SnapOn or Mac. Both holders originally had straight ends, where the shim stock protrudes. I bent those ends a little at a time until I had them at (for me) the perfect angle to be able to insert the shim and adjust the lash. Bending the holder reduces the needed bend angle of the shim stock, which goes a long way toward eliminating accidental shim breakage. Bending the holder also increases tool stability. The short one was originally modified to do 914/6s, but also works perfectly under installed 3.0/3.2 catalytic converters.
Last edited by Peter Zimmermann; 10-18-2007 at 07:21 PM.
Trending Topics
10-18-2007, 07:19 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
ice: Oh yeah, every valve, every time! I believe that "go, no go" is critical. When you "know" that you have the valve perfect, and remove the gauge, prove to yourself that it's perfect, and put the gauge back in. If it won't go, your clearance is too tight. If it goes in, and still has the nice amount of drag on the gauge that you remember from a minute earlier, you've probably got it!
10-18-2007, 08:27 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
pete: What would you say is the best way to check for valve guide wear while you're doing the clearances? Is there anything else you should do while in there? Thanks in advance!
10-19-2007, 11:07 AM
#12
Rennlist Member
Other than high consumption and warm/hot engine decel smoke, I really don't know. My approach has always been to monitor consumption and don't worry about the guides. Of the very high number of 3.2 Carreras that my shop maintained only a very small number of them, less than 5%, needed valve work before routine repairs were needed. Drive the car easy after cold starts, and just have fun with it! One tip on valve adjustment, always wiggle the rocker arm before inserting the gauge, this will eliminate any chance of an oil lock in the elephant's foot on that adjuster screw.
10-19-2007, 04:34 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
The first time I removed the cat on my old '85 it took about 3 hours, because all six bolts had to be ground off, and some of them are pretty damned awkward to get to with a decent grinder. Replaced them with six stainless steel bolts.
Steve
84 Carrera