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Hi All,
I was able to get in touch with Der. I tracked him down as I just took delivery of his car. It now resides in Houston and will be here for a very long time . Working on making a timeline and tracking down the person he sold it to. Just love the history on the car, and that owner that converted it to 3.4 and added in SSI's and a chip.
Did a couple of small projects yesterday, but she runs great, shift like a dream, no smoke, no oil leaks. Got a few projects in the works. This is my first air-cooled and her garage mate is my blue 981.
Looking forward to being part of this great community!
Very cool. I purchased mine through a broker representing a retired Ohio State professor who moved home to Costa Mesa. He wanted to be anonymous, but left a registration slip under the passenger seat. I was able to look him up and "street view" his old house in Ohio. He also had a Bugatti.
Very cool. I purchased mine through a broker representing a retired Ohio State professor who moved home to Costa Mesa. He wanted to be anonymous, but left a registration slip under the passenger seat. I was able to look him up and "street view" his old house in Ohio. He also had a Bugatti.
Very cool! As Flat-6 stated, he sold it to Der. The gaps I am missing in ownership is before Flat. And 1 owner after Der. I have contacted and gotten information from Der and the 2 most recent owners.
Just a cool story this car has been thru for it to finally land in my garage. And it gives me something to do while I wait for my brake light switches to arrive
Brake light switches!!!!! We should have had this talk a few days ago. I forget the exact numbers, but it is something like this:. That part at the Porsche dealer is $24.99. Same exact part, same maker, same box, same part#, same everything at a VW supply house is $6.99. I kid you not.
Brake light switches!!!!! We should have had this talk a few days ago. I forget the exact numbers, but it is something like this:. That part at the Porsche dealer is $24.99. Same exact part, same maker, same box, same part#, same everything at a VW supply house is $6.99. I kid you not.
Ah dang, oh well. Ordered from Pelican yesterday. Lesson learned and from what I read I will be doing again for sure
lol I new Doug was coming in with that .. I actually need a couple too
Doug do you lose fluid when you replace these ?
From what I read it is not a lot, like a teaspoon full. Here is what I found on how to replace.
1. You're mostly working from the driver's side over the wing / fender, put a big towel on it to protect it from brake fluid on hands, and scratches. Boot / trunk carpet is away; remove 4 philips screws to remove black 'cardboard' ventilation cover.
2. Completely remove the big short ventilation hose near brake master cylinder.
3. Remove the long hose from the center attachment and snake it up and out of the way to the driver's side, ensuring it doesn't put pressure on the brake fluid cap electrical connectors, they can break off.
4. Remove the top 10mm bolt holding the angled bracket which partly blocks access to the switches.
5. Loosen the bottom 10mm bolt on bracket halfway, use a paper towel on the top of the bracket and swivel it towards the centre a bit until it rests out of the way on the plastic ventilator housing (paper towel is to avoid scratches if car is nice).
6. Remove the two connectors from the brake light switches.
7. Put a heavy rag underneath the switches, and a heavy paper towel over the rag, this will capture all fluid that leaks out (it's minimal).
8. Let a drop of brake fluid (from your brake fluid reservoir float) into the hole at the top of the new switch; shake it and tap it until the fluid gets in / a bubble of air comes out. Repeat, and use a small pin to help the fluid in. Repeat once more, now the switch should be 'full' - keep vertical.
9. Use a 22mm wrench on the front switch, it's in tight so just increase pressure until it releases. Work slowly, it gets easier, then remove by hand with the new switch in your other hand. Put the old switch where it won't drip, finger thread in the new switch slowly, don't worry about brake fluid coming out. Then wrench it in tight until it feels as firmly in as it was to remove it - don't think you have to wrench it flush, just as tight as it was to get out.
10. On the rear switch, use a 22mm socket. Put the socket on the switch first, then put the drive halfway in or as far as it goes (usually the switch connectors will block the drive bit itself). Make sure it has a decent seat, then remove the switch and replace as above in step 9.
11. Re-attach the brake light switch connectors. If you test the brakes now, they probably won't light up. Start the car, brake a couple times, then it should work.
12. For liability and safety reasons I would recommend bleeding the brake system, though I didn't bother :-/
12-05-2016, 09:04 AM
. Working on making a timeline and tracking down the person he sold it to. Just love the history on the car, and that owner that converted it to 3.4 and added in SSI's and a chip. 
