kick7ca

I'm a little concerned in that the owner tells me that it's consuming oil at a rate of 1 quart per 500 miles. Sounds like valve guides right? My question is, even if the PPI comes back fine, am I still looking at a top end job in the near future? How long can it go? Is this a big cause for concern?

Thanks,
Joe

MUSSBERGER

My only comment is price in a valve job if thats where you are sure the oil is going but Pete is the one you should listen too.

Pete

you out there?

ron mcatee

kick7, you didn't say how many miles on the car/motor. My gut feeling is that the guides are gone or close to it and will need to be replaced. I only had 45K on my 87 Carrera when it needed new guides which was surprising at the time. Higher mileage cars tend to need it worse. As recommended, I would factor in a top end repair or have the guy fix it .

theiceman

That rebuild could get expensive quickly ...even just a top end rebuild will ahve to include the " while you are in their stuff" , not to mention doing the top end alone without examining the bottome end could mean trouble . My guess is the current owner knows this and moving it so someone else has to foot the bill

kick7ca

This is a very clean and well serviced car with close to 100,000 miles. He is asking $19500 obo. 100% Original.

Peter Zimmermann

It's valve guide, valve job time (99% of the time using your description). A quart per 500 miles (a big pat on the back for the honest seller!) is either at, or very close to, repair time. Have you asked about the clutch and throw out bearing fork update? One of the main risks of pushing the high consumption envelope is that, due to worn guides, a valve head can break off. Depending on rpm when that happens, the damage can be disastrous.

old man neri

You can do much better than that, especially this time of year.

kick7ca

So I guess my only other question is what do you guys think would be an appropriate offer for me to make on this car? $15K? Less? I assume the clutch and throw out update should be done at the same time...
If he was honest enough to admit the oil consumption, he may entertain an offer with the rebuild & clutch cost considered.

Thanks again,
Joe

JBO

If cosmetics are excellent, $14k max.

theiceman

Without seeing JBO post I was going to Say $15 K .... oh sorry that would be 15 K CDN about 15.5 K USD

..sorry guys after over 30 years .. I just had too ...

J. Brinkley

find a different car, seriously
figure ballpark for car w/100k 17, 18 (decent deal) minus top work of 5,6 not including any extras, 930 disk valves, head studs, etc.
The ****ty thing is that you're gonna, or should, offer 13, 14 for it, and that's almost insulting.
I would just move on, there are plenty of cars around.
There are many ways around, or methods for cheaper labor, locals in town, friends, pca rec guys that may do stuff for cheaper. But do you want to drive or do you want a car that's gonna sit for a month while you fix it?

LaughaC

It's only money, so the real question is how long it will take to will find another one that you like as much. If you like everything about it just drive the snot out of it and start planning a December rebuild.

J. Brinkley

you guys are fast, sheesh

Peter Zimmermann

I watched a lot of cars change hands at my shop, and although the negotiation process is not science, a typical deal might go like this: The shop learns of the high oil consumption, tags that repair at $4K, then adds $600 for the two engine compartment fuel lines. A price guide is consulted, let's use carsthatmatter.com in this case, and we learn that the car is in "Good" condition (call it a #3), and it's appraised at $18K. In my experience a $14 offer will be rejected out of hand, but if it's approached in a different way it might work. Let the seller know that the $4K top end will have to be done, and that there is a great risk to the buyer that additional work will be required (piston/cyl replacement, head studs, rod bearings, etc.). Start at the price guide price, deduct 75% of the top end and fuel lines ($3450), and you're at $14550 ($18K - 3450). At 100K miles there might be more necessary repairs needed, such as brake hose replacement, caliper reseals, hydraulic line for the clutch, tires over 5-years old, shocks (still original?), that a solid PPI will find. If all of the "extra" items have been done, then the buyer can move up to maybe $15K. It's a process, and there is a good chance that the seller will be insulted, but try not to do that, especially if the car is really as nice as you say.

theiceman

yeah i agree Pete the hard part is trying to factor in additional costs . offer accordingly and not insult the seller. I am actually the kind of guy whou would just walk away froma deal politley beore I would risk insulting the seller , even though I will probably never see him again . Sometimes the seller is offering the car lower to start with because of these reasons, and trying to negotiate beyond that can be tough ..