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Old 07-23-2007, 02:54 PM
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drnd
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Default Help: 1970 911 T Value.

Hello all,

Need help determining value. I ran into someone this weekend who is thinking of selling a 1970 911T. Need advice on value and approximate cost of restoration.
It's a non-sunroof coupe. Second owner since 1971. Has all records. Matching numbers. 68k miles. Been repainted once. Was in minor rear end accident thus the repair and repaint. Body is average. Lots of scratches and small dents. Will need a repaint. Original color Gulf blue. Now midnight blue. Chrome average. Rubber seals average. Several rust spots on bottom of both doors and underneath car along the longitudinals (?). Hood does not shut all the way down (poor gaps). Gaps of doors and rear trunk good.
Interior good. Torn driver seat. Probably needs new interior work. Wheels average. Chrome of wheels badly tarnished. Drive feels good. Shifts smoothly. Not sure if needs rebuild or not. Owner asking $12,000. Is this a good value? What is the cost of a total restoration?

thanks.
Old 07-23-2007, 03:34 PM
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Peter Zimmermann
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$12K, and rusty? Run away! Unless, of course, you get a professional PPI that states that the rust isn't critical (doubtful based on your description).
Old 07-23-2007, 03:58 PM
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Pedro356C
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Hi Nick...restoration cost will depend on the level you want to reach....I'd say you'd spend about $25K to make this car a $25K very good condition driver...not even close to concours...be careful regarding structural rust...a rusty floor pan is Ok...but chassis!!!!

Good luck...I love the 2.2 cars...
Old 07-24-2007, 12:24 AM
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jturbo
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Where are the necessary places to look for critical rust?
Old 07-24-2007, 12:54 AM
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Amber Gramps
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Old 07-24-2007, 12:10 PM
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Pedro356C
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Originally Posted by jturbo
Where are the necessary places to look for critical rust?
I'd check for rust at key suspension points as rear torsion bar, front suspension points (where they attach to body), longitudinals and jack points ....the floor pan could have some surface rust but if full of holes and falling apart, I'd walk away.

PS. Beware that undercoating could disguise bad areas very well...in the 356 community, an ice pick is a great helper in order to check for hidden patches.
Old 07-24-2007, 12:50 PM
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g-50cab
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Torsion tubes in the rear are critical = as well as the door sills (longitudinals) they are structurally very important. Front suspension pans - Shock towers - The floor pans - are less important from a structural standpoint - Check the battery box(es). - In other words - what Pedro says.
Old 07-24-2007, 01:10 PM
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ked
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Nick, I'd listen to Pete - and buy/read his book. I'd have an expert in early 911 chassis inspect it, & I'd walk along w/ him while he checks it out. From my pov, around $5K might be "good value", but valuation is conjecture until the car is properly inspected (physical & mechanical). To me, the key is establishing a clear understanding of one's intent for any older Porsche... survivor-driver / restoration / modification / competition / flip-for-profit... etc. Good luck!
Old 07-24-2007, 07:58 PM
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drnd
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Thanks to all for the great advice. I offered her $7000 for the car. She declined. She is a very nice lady who I think is still attached to the car. I think this may be beyond my still level as far as restoration is concern anyways. I would rather spend more for a sorted out car with less issues.



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