Clutch choices
#1
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So, now that I'm tapped out, I figure it's a perfect time to get some edjumacation on clutches (etc) for my '84 Cab.
What's stock, what's recommended, what's available, what's the costs (DIY), and where's the parts list to do it right without having the car down for weeks on end waiting for parts I forgot to order the frst time? What's the stock weight of the flywheel, and what's available lighter (if anything, and is it worth it)?
I see tons of Sachs kits on Fleabay for example, but they're all iron pressure plate jobbies with standard discs, not rubber-centered, not aluminum PPs, etc.
Performance is a plus, but I'm not looking for track use - more fun street use without tons of chatter, hopefully last clutch for the next 75k+.
I run a 9 lb Fidanza flywheel (vs. 21 lb stock) with heavy DDPP Kevlar clutch in my SHO. I'm able to shift much faster with the MTX-IV trans in the SHO than the 915, so I'm concerned with rpms dropping off too much / too fast without being able to get decent right-foot placement on brake / gas in the 911.
Teach me what's best for these cars (& why), those in the know.
What's stock, what's recommended, what's available, what's the costs (DIY), and where's the parts list to do it right without having the car down for weeks on end waiting for parts I forgot to order the frst time? What's the stock weight of the flywheel, and what's available lighter (if anything, and is it worth it)?
I see tons of Sachs kits on Fleabay for example, but they're all iron pressure plate jobbies with standard discs, not rubber-centered, not aluminum PPs, etc.
Performance is a plus, but I'm not looking for track use - more fun street use without tons of chatter, hopefully last clutch for the next 75k+.
I run a 9 lb Fidanza flywheel (vs. 21 lb stock) with heavy DDPP Kevlar clutch in my SHO. I'm able to shift much faster with the MTX-IV trans in the SHO than the 915, so I'm concerned with rpms dropping off too much / too fast without being able to get decent right-foot placement on brake / gas in the 911.
Teach me what's best for these cars (& why), those in the know.
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#2
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I just had the clutch job done on my car 30 miles ago. The reason was because the rubber came apart (infamous exploding center) after 123,000 miles. Otherwise, the disc material was in good shape, as was the pressure plate and flywheel. $2100 just because the rubber came apart. So I would think twice about putting in the rubber disc. On the other hand, some people complain about the spring-centered disc being too loud. One person on this forum actually couldn't take the loud rattle and went back to the other rubber disc design.
My mechanic actually installed the 993TT disc to avoid the pitfalls of either design issue. He said that it's stronger than the rubber one, but less noise than the spring-centered clutch disc because there are no springs. And so I drove it and am very happy with it. I guess it was the same size & price of the original, maybe a bit lighter.
My mechanic replaced the pressure plate, resurfaced the flywheel (because lightweight flywheels are an issue for the 3.2), installed a new slave cylinder, replaced the input shaft seal on the transmission, replaced the throwout bearing guide tube, and replaced both timing chain cover gaskets due to an oil leak.
If you want any more details, I will be happy to give you my mechanic's cell phone and you can chat him up. Yes, $2100 for all the above - in Chicago, which is a great price![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
BTW, I baby my clutch, so I expect this disc to last 200,000 miles, which is surely possible if that is your goal.
EDIT: This link is about Gear Rattle and is very informative: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ghlight=clutch
My mechanic actually installed the 993TT disc to avoid the pitfalls of either design issue. He said that it's stronger than the rubber one, but less noise than the spring-centered clutch disc because there are no springs. And so I drove it and am very happy with it. I guess it was the same size & price of the original, maybe a bit lighter.
My mechanic replaced the pressure plate, resurfaced the flywheel (because lightweight flywheels are an issue for the 3.2), installed a new slave cylinder, replaced the input shaft seal on the transmission, replaced the throwout bearing guide tube, and replaced both timing chain cover gaskets due to an oil leak.
If you want any more details, I will be happy to give you my mechanic's cell phone and you can chat him up. Yes, $2100 for all the above - in Chicago, which is a great price
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
BTW, I baby my clutch, so I expect this disc to last 200,000 miles, which is surely possible if that is your goal.
EDIT: This link is about Gear Rattle and is very informative: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ghlight=clutch
#3
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Hey Fred:
You want the Sachs Power Clutch kit. This is a VERY streetable unit that replaces the OEM iron pressure plate with an aluminum version and a tougher disc.
Thats all we use now,....
You want the Sachs Power Clutch kit. This is a VERY streetable unit that replaces the OEM iron pressure plate with an aluminum version and a tougher disc.
Thats all we use now,....
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#4
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Thanks Steve. I was looking around at that, the stock Sachs, and the rubber-centered one recently. The rubber-centered auction on eBay mentioned the "updated" release bearing guide, but the Sachs kits don't specify something like that - is this something I should be looking at on top of the Power Kit?
Appreciate the input guys.
Appreciate the input guys.