front pan question-inner lining?
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I saw a note on the early 911 site about replacing the front pan (not a member, so can't post there) and somebody mentioned that there is an inner piece that is supposed to tie the captive nuts together in some way that gives it greater strength. They said it is only available from porsche, so most people never doi and that not having it creates the risk of pulling the front mounts.
Anybody familiar with this?
Anybody familiar with this?
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Art,
What year car are we talking about? And just to clarify ...are you talking about the front "suspension pan" where the three bolts are that locate the front of the torsion bar? More info please.
What year car are we talking about? And just to clarify ...are you talking about the front "suspension pan" where the three bolts are that locate the front of the torsion bar? More info please.
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I think it's any year 911, and yes the front pan where the front a arm mount is. I checked photos of my original one(75) before I removed, and it didn't seem to have this 'doubler' they are talking about either. There is a double secion added to the outside, but this post clearly stated that it was meant to go on the inside. It is on the early 911s site, I missed the 's' in my post above.
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Well, I recently had to replace the front pan in my '69 project. The three "captive nuts" are very solidly welded into the pan (mine was from Restoration Products, but I assume an OEM pan would be similarly constructed?) I can't picture in my mind why any additional "piece" would help on the inside since the "nuts" are actually held in place by metal on the outside?
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I should mention: Since I was welding anyway, I DID stitch some additional beads along the sides where the two sections of sheet metal meet. (Not shown in this photo)
Those "spot welds" (althought the factory thought them sufficient) in this critical stress area, seem to me to need some additional strength. But you can see, the " captive nuts" have nice beads about them already.
Those "spot welds" (althought the factory thought them sufficient) in this critical stress area, seem to me to need some additional strength. But you can see, the " captive nuts" have nice beads about them already.
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This is the thread http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...ad.php?t=15381
My pan old and new looked like yours from the outside.
My pan old and new looked like yours from the outside.
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Art, I read the thread, but I have never seen the item discussed listed anywhere.
I would assume if you are welding in new pans you can fabricate whatever strengthening pieces you deem necessary. It seems to me the nuts are securely welded, if anything, the sheet metal pan itself is the weak point; witness my totally rusted out piece (with the nuts still secure!). So perhaps they are welding an additional piece "inside", to reinforce that sheet metal area???
Good luck.
I would assume if you are welding in new pans you can fabricate whatever strengthening pieces you deem necessary. It seems to me the nuts are securely welded, if anything, the sheet metal pan itself is the weak point; witness my totally rusted out piece (with the nuts still secure!). So perhaps they are welding an additional piece "inside", to reinforce that sheet metal area???
Good luck.
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I believe you are talking about this. Should be part of the suspension pan replacement kit.
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DN
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DN
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Art,
Yes, it appears that these are additional sheet metal pieces that weld INSIDE the lower pan and are covered by the front tank support (74er picture above). If you feel they are necessary, by all means install them while you're in there.
However, as I pointed out earlier, my 38 year old rust bucket had the front mounting points literally pulling away from the pan (photo) on both sides. Yet the NUTS were still securely attached! If these are strictly to reinforce the captive nut ...I dont see the point. The "triangularization" of the mounting points, (in addition to the front "cap" that bolts over them) makes me think you would have to be in one @#$% of a crash (or preparing the car to compete at Baha) to tear those nuts loose. Just my opinion.
Yes, it appears that these are additional sheet metal pieces that weld INSIDE the lower pan and are covered by the front tank support (74er picture above). If you feel they are necessary, by all means install them while you're in there.
However, as I pointed out earlier, my 38 year old rust bucket had the front mounting points literally pulling away from the pan (photo) on both sides. Yet the NUTS were still securely attached! If these are strictly to reinforce the captive nut ...I dont see the point. The "triangularization" of the mounting points, (in addition to the front "cap" that bolts over them) makes me think you would have to be in one @#$% of a crash (or preparing the car to compete at Baha) to tear those nuts loose. Just my opinion.
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I was thinking along similar lines, that there is really not that much force on those mounts unless you are hitting huge bumps that load the a-arm axially. They obviously put them there for a reason, though. I replaced just one side of my pan under the battery due to acid leaks, so to add this doubler would mean cutting apart the battery tray which is not a huge deal, but might not be worth it for a fair weather street car.