Electric Impact Wrench
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I borrow my father-in-laws air impact wrench on the occasions that I need one.
But I was thinking about getting one of these:
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...productID=8660
Anyone have one? What do you think? It seems like it would be good for 90% of the jobs.
But I was thinking about getting one of these:
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...productID=8660
Anyone have one? What do you think? It seems like it would be good for 90% of the jobs.
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I bought a cordless DeWalt on Amazon.
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This one is great. Most of my friends have one. I will soon!
http://www.whatsyourconcept.com/item...asp?itemID=465
http://www.whatsyourconcept.com/item...asp?itemID=465
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Thanks for the opinions guys.
I went to Home Depot today to check out the Dewalt corded model (345 ft-lbs). It seemed a bit on the big and heavy side. So I looked at the 18V cordless model (300 ft-lbs.) and it seems more the size and weight I was expecting. But of course a bit more expensive. So now I'm not really sure which way I want to go. Originally I was leaning towards the corded model for more power. But I'm wondering if giving up 45 ft-lbs of torque is worth a smaller unit. Decisions...decisions.
The Milwaukee 28V w/ lithium battery unit (325 ft-lbs) is very nice...but very expensive. Out of my price range. And the 18V unit is expensive too and doesn't put out as much torque as the Dewalt 18V unit.
So if I'm sticking with Dewalt, would you go corded for 45 ft-lbs more torque or spend a few extra $$ and get the cordless model with 300 ft-lbs?
I went to Home Depot today to check out the Dewalt corded model (345 ft-lbs). It seemed a bit on the big and heavy side. So I looked at the 18V cordless model (300 ft-lbs.) and it seems more the size and weight I was expecting. But of course a bit more expensive. So now I'm not really sure which way I want to go. Originally I was leaning towards the corded model for more power. But I'm wondering if giving up 45 ft-lbs of torque is worth a smaller unit. Decisions...decisions.
The Milwaukee 28V w/ lithium battery unit (325 ft-lbs) is very nice...but very expensive. Out of my price range. And the 18V unit is expensive too and doesn't put out as much torque as the Dewalt 18V unit.
So if I'm sticking with Dewalt, would you go corded for 45 ft-lbs more torque or spend a few extra $$ and get the cordless model with 300 ft-lbs?
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Is this for changing wheels at events? If so, I've seen a few guys use a breaker bar to loosen the lugnuts, then a simple cordless screwdriver or inexpensive cordless drill with 19mm socket can spin off the nuts in no time ...fast procedure and it's a whole LOT cheaper. Unless you're competing for pit times, it's not a necessary expense, IMHO. Nice to have, to be sure, but I could easily use that money to buy brakes ...like right now ![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
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Edward
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Edward
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Originally Posted by Edward
Is this for changing wheels at events? If so, I've seen a few guys use a breaker bar to loosen the lugnuts, then a simple cordless screwdriver or inexpensive cordless drill with 19mm socket can spin off the nuts in no time ...fast procedure and it's a whole LOT cheaper. Unless you're competing for pit times, it's not a necessary expense, IMHO. Nice to have, to be sure, but I could easily use that money to buy brakes ...like right now ![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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Edward
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Edward
I guess if I got the cordless model it would work at the track/autocross...but that's not the intended purpose.
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if you have air, then why not get an air drive model?
and BTW, once you get all the nuts&bolts broken loose, you won't need impact for several years...
I have a hand impact driver I've used since the 1970s. When I did my suspension, I used an air drive on a lift since I could work at a repair shop. I figure there's no need for one now.
and BTW, once you get all the nuts&bolts broken loose, you won't need impact for several years...
I have a hand impact driver I've used since the 1970s. When I did my suspension, I used an air drive on a lift since I could work at a repair shop. I figure there's no need for one now.
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I needed to get a nut off the flywheel of a non- P car a few years ago, and I used my corded Dewalt. It took quite a bit of pounding to get it off, but off it came.
If you are using it in the shop, get the biggest machine. Better to have the power, and some of the air tools have over 400 ft lbs. Also, in 20 years, the cord on a plug in unit will still work. You will not get 20 from a battery.
If you are using it in the shop, get the biggest machine. Better to have the power, and some of the air tools have over 400 ft lbs. Also, in 20 years, the cord on a plug in unit will still work. You will not get 20 from a battery.
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Duh!!! ...I misread/misinterpreted your orig post. You want a corded model; I get it! ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
In that case, yes, it's a good thing to have if you're not ready to go to air. Buying a good compressor and all it's accoutrements will set you back several hunderd bucks, and take up space. It's great, but not for everybody. If you get an electric one, get as good a unit as you can now ...cheap tools get really expensive when you have to buy the "real" tool to do the job the cheap one couldn't. You know what they say about buying quality: you only cry once ...at the cash register.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Edward
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In that case, yes, it's a good thing to have if you're not ready to go to air. Buying a good compressor and all it's accoutrements will set you back several hunderd bucks, and take up space. It's great, but not for everybody. If you get an electric one, get as good a unit as you can now ...cheap tools get really expensive when you have to buy the "real" tool to do the job the cheap one couldn't. You know what they say about buying quality: you only cry once ...at the cash register.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Edward