MarkSchu

What is the normal operating range for an 88 3.2? This houston heat seems to be doing a number on my street car. In stop and go traffic with the A/C on, it is getting to 210 pretty quick. Is this too hot? will it hurt the engine? Thanks in advance.

JackOlsen

210 is not a problem at all. 220 is okay, although it should get your attention. 230 had better have a good explanation. 240 is worrisome. 250 means pull over and cool down.

Do you have a numeric gauge, or are you approximating from the lines?

Mike Murphy

My '88 3.2 usually runs right in the middle between the 1st and 2nd lines on 85 degree days. On a really hot day (99+) it got up to the 2nd line but never went above it.

MarkSchu

I have a numeric gauge. the scale is 150, 180, 210, 240.

RedShadow

What tends to happen when a 911 overheats?

theiceman

I always enjoy the engine temp discusions as I tend to learn a lot. When i had the old guage I would barely be above the first line while running ( 20w50 kendall racing ) . I put in a numberd guage with a new sender at the beginning of the summer. On routine driving I can NEVER get to 180. Kind of funny since I need to get it there to check the oil level :-) . I have a 78sc with a trombone cooler in front and I do live in Canada. Most days are between 70 and 80 in the summer with a few days in the 90 -100 range. Even on the hotter days it will only get to 180 or above if I am in stop and go are really opening it up on the highway and making the engine work. I am wondering after reading all these posts if my guage is a little out of calibration, or if it is just normal for my enviroment.

JackOlsen

Iceman, you might want to confirm that you have the earlier temp sender instead of the later one. The later sender (which was made for the non-numeric gauge) will give false low readings when paired with a numeric gauge.

seanoj

My 1984 3.2 used to get quite hot. After first purchasing it, I was stuck in traffic (Dodger Stadium) one a very hot day and watched the guage peg at the top. Pulliing over and shutting down was impossible... Scared the heck out of me.

I switched to Mobil 1 right after that and the temps never make it to the third mark. I did have a few leaks that were discovered due to the changeover, but fixing them was better than the overheating alternative.

Mike Murphy

Does anyone know what temps the non-numerical gagues represents by the lines? In other words, what temp is the 1st line, what temp is the 2nd line and so on...?

seanoj

My 1984 guage has numbers printed (very small type) to the very left of the lines. I don't have the car with me to check, but you might want to get a flashlight and take a peek at yours...

imcarthur

Posted by Pete a month or 2 ago:



Ian

Edit: I edited the picture & added Jack's numbers for future searchs. And edited again - I didn't check your figures the 1st time Jack.

JackOlsen

Celsius to Fahrenheit

60C = 140F (keep revs below 4000 until it's a little warmer)
90C = 194F (the sweet spot)
120C = 248F (too hot!)
150C = 302F (you're gonna damaged your engine)

theiceman

Hi Jack

This came up on a discusion a while ago and i really don't know if I have the right sender. I ordered the kit from pelican and although the sender they sent me did not look like my original. ( was way shorter). The new one did not have a circular connector but a blade connector like my old one. I was told the sender i needed has a circular connector on it but I figured pelican should know since they sent it to me !

JackOlsen

I had an incorrect top temp (I thought it said 180C, when it was 150c). I fixed it in my posting.

Iceman, if you're unable to get your engine above 180 on a 90 degree day with a trombone cooler, then I suspect your readings are incorrect. Have you tried a pyrometer or decals for confirmation?

theiceman

I can definitely get a thermal tester but where do I test ? right at the sender body itself?