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A friend has a ’87 turbo look 911 cab that is in need of a clutch replacement. I would like to help him in the replacement (love to work on P-cars) as he hasn’t had the pleasure of R&R the engine in his car. This brings me to my questions.
I have had the engine out of my car twice with little difficulty, ’83 911SC 3.0, is there much difference in the 3.2 as I am not able to find any articles comparing the two.
Can someone recommend a replacement clutch for the 3.2? The car is only used for city/freeway driving. (Sad, I know)
Should the fly wheel be resurfaced or can we just replace pressure plate/disk/bearing?
FRQTFLR,
The main difference is that his car has the G-50 Transmission. I would strongly recommend not resurfacing the flywheel as this can lead to warpage. Steve W. at Rennsport Systems has all the parts you need for the job( I am in the process of getting all this to do mine when it's needed). Parts for the G-50 are not cheap so prepare your friend accordingly. Also, there is a bushing that was updated in the later G-50's that should be done "while you're in there".
There's a few differences in removing the motor and trans., but it's generally the same procedure as other cars.
Pretty much the same as your SC. Make sure fuel lines (one at the top of the fuel filter and one down near the back of the valve cover at the firewall on the driver's side), ground straps (one on the intake manifold driver's side, other on body at trans. on pass side), wire harnesses (one big plug going into the fuse panel on driver's side of engine bay, other on top of firewall near shock absorber attachment point), oil lines on oil tank (two biggies and one small one I think), hose on back of air box and a small 8mm O.D. vaccuum hose I think, cruise control cable if you have it, oxygen sensor connector (black plug connection right by fuel filter), throttle linkage on trans., speedo sender on trans., shift rod connection, CV joint/axle bolts, clutch slave cylinder on top of trans., rubber S-hose from oil cooler to bottom of oil tank, oil return line connection located between motor and thermostat in pass. fender, heat exchanger cloth hoses. That's the best I can recall from memory here at work!!!!
Helps to take the air box off and the heater blower motor to get more clearance coming out the rear. I like to take the rear bumper off too so I don't have to jack up the car so high. Not necessary, but that's just how I like to do it.
One difference from your SC is to pull the shift shaft boot out of the body when you disconnect the shifter shaft from the shift rod on the trans. That is, the boot stays on the trans. Pull the boot out of the opening in the car body and leave the other end connected to the trans. If you try to put the boot back on the trans. with it bolted in the car, the trans. cross member gets in the way of properly securing the boot to the trans. Ask me how I know.
The flywheel cannot be resurfaced on the G50 models. Has to do with excessive travel of the slave cylinder rod I think. Says it in the Bentley manual I believe. Gotta replace it if it's warped/out of spec.
Original clutch disc is like the rubber kind on your SC and is sometimes suspect. I replaced mine with a factory Porsche disc from the 76-77 930 Turbo. It's a direct replacement (no modifications required) and it's a spring disc instead of a rubber one. Not cheap ($250 from Stoddard), but the rubber one sure ain't cheap either. Rubber one might even be more expensive.
If you replace the release bearing (you should), you have to replace the guide tube that the bearing slides over. Have to replace tube because new bearing is a different size than the old and the old is no longer available. If you want to save $$$ you can probably reuse the old pressure plate (over $300 new). I've heard many say that p-plates don't wear out as much as we all think. You do what you like. I replaced mine because i'm single!!!!
The bushing that James refers to is the clutch cross shaft assy. on which the release fork pivots. It is prone to failure, due to lack of lubrication, in the early G50 cars (87 thru early 89). You can try to relube it, but the bearings in the fork may be trashed. You can do the factory or an aftermarket update. Aftermarket update is recommended by those with MUCH more experience than I. I have the experience of ONE G50 clutch replacement- mine. I did the factory update if you're curious (let me know since this is getting LONG winded).
Hope this helps? Sorry about the length, but you asked and i'm bored at work on a Friday.
Great information. The removal sounds the same as my SC work. Can you tell me what you paid for the release fork update? I am guessing that he will want to skip the pressure plate if it is not needed and maybe go with the spring cluch disk.
I replaced the bushing assembly on my clutch at a cost of $110 about a year ago. It may be more now. Also, a word of caution on removing the clutch slave line. Take off the two 10mm nuts holding it to the bell housing and use a wire to hold it out of the way. If you break the hydraulic line connection, you will have to bleed the entire system, which will mean a lot more work. I found out the hard way too.
[quote]Originally posted by FRQTFLR:
<strong>Kevin,
Great information. The removal sounds the same as my SC work. Can you tell me what you paid for the release fork update? I am guessing that he will want to skip the pressure plate if it is not needed and maybe go with the spring cluch disk.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Here's what I paid for the clutch, release fork, shaft updates:
T/O bearing $70
Pressure plate $255
Early 930 spring disc $250
Release fork $53
Updated release fork shaft $30
Shaft bracket and bolt $2 total
Plastic end cap $0.50
T/O bearing guide tube $36
Shaft needle bearings 1 @ $12 and 1 @ $2
Two shaft rubber ring seals $2 total
Also included in the above costs would be the $199 I paid to have the dealer drill out the bores in the trans. to accept the new bearings and shaft. I had to do this because the Porsche tool kit #9292 (P/N 000 721 929 20) is NLA (No Longer Available). Luckily a dealer nearby had the tool kit to do the job for me.
I wasn't too keen on the aftermarket shaft update as I wasn't too familiar with how it performs. But after hearing that John Walker uses it for his customer cars, I wish I had used it and saved me the lugging of my trans. to and from the dealer! John's been wrenching on 911's longer than I am old so i'd trust his recommendation. Give him a call to see what you need for the shaft update via aftermarket equipment. He can give you a better idea of the need to replace a pressure plate or not as well.
When you replace the T/O bearing, be sure to NOT lubricate the I.D. of the bearing or the surface of the tube. The bearing has a plastic liner that needs no lubrication. That's not me talking, that's what's stated in the tech. bulletin about the new bearing/guide tube.
On the middle left from the shock strut is a 6 pin connector for the fuel injector harness. Often overseen and torn apart.
The small connectors from the EFI need a little screwdriver to remove the security wire taps and have little rubber seals inside ( get lost easy ).
The G50 Trany Flywheels are not allowed to be resurfaced as it will change the kinematik point from the lever travel and generate several problems.
OK slight smothing out by 0,05-0,1 mm will not hurt.
When you grind/surface it down have it spanned with the flywheelbolts to a crankshaftdummy.
They dont have enough surface to spann them on the inside and the outside can be warped and this will be followed later by a brocken or losened ( by wiggeling ) crank.
Now reinstalling my 88 911 engine & tranny, and in spite of all the forum admonitions about pictures and tagging wires, I somehow missed this one. It's a heavy gauge wire which Where does this attach?
measures 0 resistance to chassis ground, and looks like it comes from the front with other wires, but I don't understand why you would need another ground wire besides the ground strap from the tranny to the chassis, or where to attach it. Any help?
Looks like the main power cable to the starter to me. Connects to the solenoid, along with a heavy red wire from the engine harness.
Mark
Must be, Bentley 970-11 shows both a black and red wire connection to the starter, I was confused because it tested no resistance to ground. Wish I had connected it before I finished reinstalling the engine/tranny, onnection is now tough to get at..
Must be, Bentley 970-11 shows both a black and red wire connection to the starter, I was confused because it tested no resistance to ground. Wish I had connected it before I finished reinstalling the engine/tranny, onnection is now tough to get at..
Thanks, Mark. It was tricky but with a short 13MM and an S shaped wrench I bought years ago for my VW bug, I managed to attach the wire without removing the starter.
03-22-2002, 03:13 PM
'83 3.0 vs '87 3.2 engine removal
