Start up problem - 88 3.2 help...
#16
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Yes, the DME box and DME relay have nothing to do with the starter. I own a 944 Turbo and I'm sure its the same stuff. Try this:
First, try and jump your starter off the battery. If it works, then remove the exciter lead on the solenoid and measure the voltage you're getting when the ignition switch is turned to start. If both of those check out, its not the starter or the ignition switch. I would start looking at wiring, after that. I'm sure youve checked that the battery is over 12 volts?
I had this exact same problem with my 951 last week, and it happened to be a loose spade lug connection to the exciter. It was actually my fault... I should've drilled a hole in the lug and used a loop with a bolt to secure it ( recently replaced intermittent solenoid ).
First, try and jump your starter off the battery. If it works, then remove the exciter lead on the solenoid and measure the voltage you're getting when the ignition switch is turned to start. If both of those check out, its not the starter or the ignition switch. I would start looking at wiring, after that. I'm sure youve checked that the battery is over 12 volts?
I had this exact same problem with my 951 last week, and it happened to be a loose spade lug connection to the exciter. It was actually my fault... I should've drilled a hole in the lug and used a loop with a bolt to secure it ( recently replaced intermittent solenoid ).
#17
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Driving the car today and after a short stop, the car did not start. Nothing is happening when I turn the key. The car's alarm system locks the doors, etc so their is power. I had the car towed home and plugged in the Factory Porsche Battery Maintainer into the cigarette lighter, now I can close the windows without the key (cool feature).
Based on this thread and the car's age (1987) with 140K, I am guessing it's the electric portion of the ignition switch. How much should it cost (average) to have the ignition switch (electric portion) replaced with parts and labor?
Based on this thread and the car's age (1987) with 140K, I am guessing it's the electric portion of the ignition switch. How much should it cost (average) to have the ignition switch (electric portion) replaced with parts and labor?
#19
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Starter, Alternator, all have been replaced recently. This problem started around a year ago occasionally as posted in the start of the thread. I am almost sure it's the switch since I have no power with the key anymore to close the windows or any accessories. The alarm (with remote) works great, so the car has power.
I just found the electric portion ignition switch online at Performance Products for $57.99. Has anyone replaced this, is it 1 or 2 hour labor?
I just found the electric portion ignition switch online at Performance Products for $57.99. Has anyone replaced this, is it 1 or 2 hour labor?
#20
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
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When the key switch goes bad, a lot of the little contacts are not aligned anymore, so you'll notice weird behavior - such as the engine not turning off, or the windows doing weird things. Not having power when turning the key to the on position is another.
You can do it at home. If you have a lot of manual dexterity in your hands, then you'll have an easier time. Parts of the job require fingertip control. You'll have to remove the sheer off bolts that hold the ignition into the dash. I used a center punch, drill, and easy out. You'll need a stubby allen key for the third bold, which is over by the steering column. You will also want to re-install this bolt, as it is needed for the steering wheel lock. Do not attempt to remove the hazzard light switch from the dash or you could break it. I found it easier to remove the driver's seat and lay some thick blankets on top of the dme area. I think it might be more like a 3-4 hour job for the first timer.
You can do it at home. If you have a lot of manual dexterity in your hands, then you'll have an easier time. Parts of the job require fingertip control. You'll have to remove the sheer off bolts that hold the ignition into the dash. I used a center punch, drill, and easy out. You'll need a stubby allen key for the third bold, which is over by the steering column. You will also want to re-install this bolt, as it is needed for the steering wheel lock. Do not attempt to remove the hazzard light switch from the dash or you could break it. I found it easier to remove the driver's seat and lay some thick blankets on top of the dme area. I think it might be more like a 3-4 hour job for the first timer.
#21
Intermediate
A good check for the ignition switch is to reach under the dash with your left hand, while turning the key with the right hand. The electrical portion has a large, aprox. 1 1/2" plug on it . Push that forwards, towards you while attempting to crank. Many times this will work, then you know it's the ignition switch. As for the DME relay, they have a printed date on them and at my shop we strongly recommend replacing them every 10 years. Cheap insurance and you'll actually see a starting and performance difference. It runs the DME computer, ignition and fuel injection. We also have DME relays on our web-store www.redlinetechnik.com/store Be careful with lower price, made in China relays, I'll only install O.E. Porsche units in my customers cars. They cost a little more but are higher quality and come with a factory 2 year warrenty.
#22
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Ok, we replaced the Ignition Switch Electric Portion and that solved the problem. The car is running great and there are no issues. Thanks everyone for the support.
#24
Instructor
Having about the same problem with my 87 911. New battery, starter 1 year old. My tech suspects ignition switch. Will update with findings but a new dme relay for sure just because the once in use has been there since at least 1991.
#25
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It took about an hour for my buddy who is a Porsche Master Tech to set up and replace it. They don't work on air cooled cars much at dealers so it was a walk down memory lane for him.