gbailey911

OK, I have put off the clutch job in my 1987 Carrera as long as I can. I plan on droping the engine late this month to replace the clutch. I plan on a new clutch disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, cupgrade clutch fork, front engine seal, new oil and filter, adjust the valves and replace the engine compartment sound pad. Anything else I should do within reason while I have the engine/transmission out?

Thanks in advance!

George

theiceman

Pete has a long list of seals and gaskets that prevent future/ current oil leaks, but I don't have the list handy...Pete ?

racer

Light weight flywheel? How are the synchros? Heck, how about an LSD?

redtdi96

yes please post the "list" of seals, like oil cooler, thermistat, replace oil sender, upper/lower valve cover gaskets + what you listed ?? oil return tubes (I have an 80 and don't know what is on 86)

g-50cab

rear monoballs and shocks - much easier with the engine out

Dave 86 930 Fl

clutch cable

dsmith

intake gaskets and runners, fuel filter, axle bolts/gaskets, trans seal, ground wire, breather hose and cover gasket, cam oil lines. slave cyl? don't know how the G50 is set up.

in fact, just take the wheels off, drive a new car under it and bolt the wheels back on!

I'm pulling mine again this month for a clutch also. It'll be the 3rd time in 2 months. It's almost fun now.
David

Peter Zimmermann

George: It certainly sounds like you're on the right track, but I don't see a mainshaft seal or T.O. bearing guide tube on your list - better plan on them! Depending on mileage, and repairs that might have already been done, you should definitely plan on a new slave cylinder and the flex line for it. David makes a great point regarding the intake manifold gaskets, if you haven't yet replaced the two fuel lines in the engine compartment now will be the time to do it. I know that the one line is very expensive, almost $500, but if it hasn't been done yet it's getting close. The fuel lines/intake reseal are much easier to do with the engine out. Also, consider replacing the oil pressure warning light switch and the thermostat o-ring on top of the crankcase. Again, if they're original, you should also order breather hoses, and plan to replace the plugs, distributor cap and rotor. Has the head temp sensor been replaced? If not, it's a little easier to do with the engine out.

Jeremy's rear monoballs might not be "within reason," but you might want to consider shocks. Also, for the sound pad, I like 3M Super Trim Adhesive (aerosol) the best.

Here's a biggie... consider your clutch disc choice carefully. There was a recent thread where a gentleman was sold a spring hub (not o.e.) disc, and he was sufficiently unhappy that he had the shop do the job over, and install the rubber hub disc. Also, you will probably need someone to modify your bell housing to accept the updated fork and fork shaft.

Pete

rnln

man.. the "while I am there" can break your pocket easy. To me, keep driving it. Only fix when it need you to. There are many times "while I am there" that I break perfect working parts :lol:. This time, my car has been sitting for almost 2 weeks now and I have to replace several parts which I might not need to.

theiceman

Is that including the doors due to your neighbours kids ***** ? :-)