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A/C barrier hose install DIY project?

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Old 07-06-2014, 09:05 AM
  #31  
griffiths
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Originally Posted by wwest
Sorry, Charlie, that's like saying the earth is not really in a direct line of sight (Radiant energy) with the sun. Think about why Porsche saw the need to shield the rear brake rotor from the Cat HEAT.
It is almost a total "eclipse". However, the proof is the the pudding based on the end of result of units in the field.

Originally Posted by wwest
Why not a "trinary" pressure switch, the third element to activate the fan only as needed. Otherwise how do you control the fan?[ Relay off the compressor clutch power isn't fully adequate since refrigerant pressure can remain HIGH even post compressor off.
The KISS circuit we designed over 10 years ago does not need a (your) trinary switch. And, the refrigerant pressure in any system immediately drops when a compressor stops..... you can go back and read all your old threads on the system or ask any qualified technician; however if you want to start another thread on the subject please feel free to do so but this is not the place unless you want to start another arm chair pissing contest, lol.

Originally Posted by wwest
What pressure sensor do you use/recommend, what is its high pressure cutoff point? The Red DOT I have recommended opens the compressor circuit at 325 PSI.
As you recall RedDot does not make switches they re-sell switches, and the cut-in and cut-out pressures of our switches is proprietary; meaning we select them; again answered in your other posts on PP. Been there done that redundant posts and threads
Old 07-06-2014, 01:06 PM
  #32  
wwest
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Originally Posted by griffiths
It is almost a total "eclipse". However, the proof is the the pudding based on the end of result of units in the field.

In other words you actually don't have a single clue as to whether your rear fender condenser is being adversely affected by the radiant heat emanating from the closely nearby HOT catalytic converter..??!!

In that case I suggest that we go with the SOLID science of the matter. Are or you on the Republican side of the global climate change issue?


The KISS circuit we designed over 10 years ago does not need a (your) trinary switch.

Over 10 years ago... No improvements based on the advancement of knowledge or technology?

And, the refrigerant pressure in any system immediately drops when a compressor stops.....

If that were the actual case the compressor would restart immediately..or did you mean to say "starts" dropping? If so, "starts dropping" involves how fast, how soon does the compressor restart?

you can go back and read all your old threads on the system or ask any qualified technician;

Actually I have consulted with more than one qualified technician, even a design engineer currently working with new automotice A/C designs. Most agree that your statements are often to simplistic ("pressure in any system IMMEDIATELY drops"), or self serving, or at worse, simply BONKERS!

however if you want to start another thread on the subject please feel free to do so but

this is not the place

Since when is an "open forum" not the place?

unless you want to start another arm chair pissing contest, lol.

So, you are a Republican! Anyone not in agreement with you is "pissing".

As you recall RedDot does not make switches they re-sell switches,

The point is that the Red Dot P/N I proposed has a high pressure cutoff limit cognizant with the use, conversion of an old system, of R-134a.

and the cut-in and cut-out pressures of our switches is proprietary;

Good, even GREAT, fallback position!

meaning we select them;

Yes, since you also don't manufacture them, you "select" one to resell from those in the marketplace, just as you do, obviously with "your" R/D. How we know you're not using the exact same manufacturing source, specifications, as is Red Dot. Even better question, how do you know?

again answered in your other posts on PP. Been there done that redundant posts and threads
It would silly, in the extreme, for you not to admit that using the third element of a trinary pressure switch would represent a significant improvement in the efficiency of your rear fender mount condenser/fan.

"KISS", my axe, how do you currently provide power to the fan, relay energized by the compressor clutch circuit? How is that any less KISS than the trinary switch? Or is NIH once again?

Yet you keep coming back with these innane, simplistic, self-serving statements.

Why?
Old 07-06-2014, 03:11 PM
  #33  
wwest
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Griffiths:

There are two possible reasons, causes, for the compressor to be cycle off, the thermostatic control switch, or high refrigerant pressure. With your rear fender condenser/fan what happens to high side pressure when the compressor cycles off as a result of the evaporator surface temperature declining to the lowest setpoint, 28-32F..??

The TXV is currently fully closed (only mostly if you were correct), no fender condenser cooling fan running therefore the HEAT from the catalyst becomes the dominant factor....

Or even better, what if the compressor is cycled off due to high side pressure reaching your "proprietary" (450 PSI?) setpoint.

Can you give us actual measurements? Or just self-serving harebrained theory?
Old 07-06-2014, 06:17 PM
  #34  
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West, Iam with you on the conspicuous placement of that core and fan. When at a stop you have the engine fan dumping heat downwards and the cat radiating heat in all directions. Add in Griff's fan and that core is going to get hot fast.

My idea of putting it where the windshield washer bottle is makes much more sense. That reservoir can be replaced with a unit from Pep Boys for $40. I still have not needed to use the washers in 7-1/2 years. I think I could fit 2 of Griffith's 12" x12" units in that fender well.
Old 07-06-2014, 06:36 PM
  #35  
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Munchie,

What can I say, its fun to push his buttons
Old 07-06-2014, 07:00 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by griffiths
Munchie,

What can I say, its fun to push his buttons
Dude, you just walked near his buttons and it was the fourth of July all over again.
Old 07-06-2014, 09:36 PM
  #37  
wwest
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Originally Posted by amber lamps
West, Iam with you on the conspicuous placement of that core and fan. When at a stop you have the engine fan dumping heat downwards and the cat radiating heat in all directions. Add in Griff's fan and that core is going to get hot fast.

Sorry, I must disagree, in part. As Griffiths states, "the proof is in the pudding". As long as the rear fender condenser's cooling fan runs, is running, it will most likely provide enough cooling airflow to overcome the adverse affects of the cat and the air "dump". But once the compressor cycles off and the fan stops the adverse effects take over.

With the trinary switch in place controlling the fan it would continue to run until the high side pressure declines significantly. But Griffiths must know all of that, he believes in KISS at the same level the Porsche engineers did, mistakenly so, o the customer's detriment.


My Idea of putting it where the windshield washer bottle is makes much more sense. That reservoir can be replaced with a unit from Pep Boys for $40. I still have not needed to use the washers in 7-1/2 years. I think I could fit 2 of Griffith's 12" x12" units in that fender well.
Maybe someone with Griffiths rear condenser/fan already installed would be so kind as to try the addition of a trinary switch and post the results. Clearly not something Griffiths will do.
Old 07-06-2014, 10:08 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by amber lamps
West, Iam with you on the conspicuous placement of that core and fan. When at a stop you have the engine fan dumping heat downwards and the cat radiating heat in all directions. Add in Griff's fan and that core is going to get hot fast.

My idea of putting it where the windshield washer bottle is makes much more sense. That reservoir can be replaced with a unit from Pep Boys for $40. I still have not needed to use the washers in 7-1/2 years. I think I could fit 2 of Griffith's 12" x12" units in that fender well.

"I think I could fit 2....."

Even better...

1.) If your 911 has the cabin heat control module all you have to do is add a trinary switch to provide a circuit ground to pin #10 of that module. The cabin heat blower will then run only "as needed" more than doubling the cooling airflow through the rear lid condenser.

With an easy DIY modification to the cabin heater fan's squirrel cage blower wheel inlet you can more than triple the cooling airflow "as needed".

2.) Absent the module you could use the trinary switch to provide (fused) battery voltage directly to the cabin heat blower. It would then provide extra rear lid condenser cooling at all times.
Old 07-06-2014, 10:27 PM
  #39  
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Where is the "cabin heat controller module"? I have been collecting parts to go from auto heat to manual heat. My foot well blowers have been removed and my engine heat blower is also gone. Ultimately I would remove the fresh air box and rely solely on the A/C fan in the smugglers box. I removed the internals when I removed the A/C and just have the fan to circulate air. Here in So Cal we don't need heat so my idea for it was to modify the heat ducting to run to the defrost vents only. I want the fresh air box gone. Heat controls would be just the pull levers between the seats and the A/C would just be an on/off switch and fan speed switch.
Old 07-06-2014, 10:37 PM
  #40  
Ed Hughes
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Originally Posted by amber lamps
Where is the "cabin heat controller module"? I have been collecting parts to go from auto heat to manual heat. My foot well blowers have been removed and my engine heat blower is also gone. Ultimately I would remove the fresh air box and rely solely on the A/C fan in the smugglers box. I removed the internals when I removed the A/C and just have the fan to circulate air. Here in So Cal we don't need heat so my idea for it was to modify the heat ducting to run to the defrost vents only. I want the fresh air box gone. Heat controls would be just the pull levers between the seats and the A/C would just be an on/off switch and fan speed switch.
I didn't use heat much, but I sure needed defrost on cold morning in the mountains or damp mornings on the coast.
Old 07-07-2014, 01:48 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Ed Hughes
I didn't use heat much, but I sure needed defrost on cold morning in the mountains or damp blowers
mornings on the coast.
Yes a 911 without the cabin heat blower and/or the footwell blowers operative can represent a serious challenge comes the time, need, for defogging/demisting the windshield.
Old 07-07-2014, 08:54 AM
  #42  
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Guys come on. Can we please stick to tech stuff on our tech forum . The OT BS is just that...

Just a reminder the sc never came with footwell blowers and mine works pretty good at de frosting and defogging . I imagine the footwell blowers do a good job at distributing heat though as my feet burn with the lower heat on.
Old 07-07-2014, 10:11 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by theiceman
Guys come on. Can we please stick to tech stuff on our tech forum . The OT BS is just that...

Just a reminder the sc never came with footwell blowers and mine works pretty good at de frosting and defogging . I imagine the footwell blowers do a good job at distributing heat though as my feet burn with the lower heat on.

Then you haven't driven a 1978 SC over Snoqualmie pass, or the "like", at night in the dead of winter, practical impossibility keeping the windshield defogged.

1988 Carrera, POC!
Old 07-07-2014, 11:00 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by wwest
Then you haven't driven a 1978 SC over Snoqualmie pass, or the "like", at night in the dead of winter, practical impossibility keeping the windshield defogged.

1988 Carrera, POC!
that ... i have not
Old 07-07-2014, 11:09 AM
  #45  
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I kept my footwell blowers when I ditched the big blower in back.


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