Too much power
#1
Burning Brakes
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Car is an 80 SC coupe. After turning off the car, removing the key and opening (and even closing) the door the power windows and sunroof still have power. The plunger switches on the both doors work fine because the interior lights go on and off when opening and closing the doors. Where else should I look, is there a relay for the residual power specifically?
#2
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Rick: Your car does not have any of the "leave the power on for a little while" devices that plague the more modern automobile. Your car is probably wired wrong at the fusebox, on more than one terminal, because the sunroof and windows on your car are not on the same fuse.
Pete
Pete
#3
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Rick,
If it makes you feel better my '85 does the same thing.
Peter,
Is this a problem that could cause harm to my car down the road, or should I not worry about it?
Best wishes - Jay
If it makes you feel better my '85 does the same thing.
Peter,
Is this a problem that could cause harm to my car down the road, or should I not worry about it?
Best wishes - Jay
#4
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Power going to the wrong side of a fuse box is never a good thing, it would make me nervous. Electrical/harness fires are nasty, I wouldn't want to fix one in my own car! The source of the problem should at least be confirmed in order to make an informed decision.
Hi Jay: Your problem will be different - your windows and sunroof ARE on the same fuse! Perhaps a previous owner wanted them to work with the car shut off - I've certainly seen that.
Pete
Hi Jay: Your problem will be different - your windows and sunroof ARE on the same fuse! Perhaps a previous owner wanted them to work with the car shut off - I've certainly seen that.
Pete
#6
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Did this suddenly start or had you noticed this earlier?
Do you have a voltmeter?
Assuming you don't have a voltmeter try this:
If you have a spare relay, swap it for the power window relay and see if that fixes the problem. I think the power to the power window relay contacts are hot all the time. It's the coil that gets switched with the ignition key. If the coil is stuck, you will have power at all times to the window switch. If you don't have a spare relay, temporarily swap one of the other black relays (like the A/C relay) for the power window relay.
Here's a second test.
With the ignition switch off, slowly pull out the power window relay. You should hear nothing. If you hear it click and feel it click in your hands, you have 12vdc to the relay at all time. This would lead me to focus on the ignition switch itself.
Try the above tests and post back.
As far as the sunroof, it should not have power with the ignition switch off. You'll need a voltmeter to check this one. Power to the sunroof fuse goes from the ignition switch to fuse 1( according to my Bentlley). Verify on your car that fuse 1 is for the sunroof. If so, measure from the fuse to ground with the ignition switch off. Do the same with it on. If it is 12vdc both times, I think the ignition switch is bad.
Note. The common point of failure between both these items is the ignition switch. These tests should help verify that's the problem.
Done any electrical work on the car recently? Anything get shorted that you recall?
Do you have a voltmeter?
Assuming you don't have a voltmeter try this:
If you have a spare relay, swap it for the power window relay and see if that fixes the problem. I think the power to the power window relay contacts are hot all the time. It's the coil that gets switched with the ignition key. If the coil is stuck, you will have power at all times to the window switch. If you don't have a spare relay, temporarily swap one of the other black relays (like the A/C relay) for the power window relay.
Here's a second test.
With the ignition switch off, slowly pull out the power window relay. You should hear nothing. If you hear it click and feel it click in your hands, you have 12vdc to the relay at all time. This would lead me to focus on the ignition switch itself.
Try the above tests and post back.
As far as the sunroof, it should not have power with the ignition switch off. You'll need a voltmeter to check this one. Power to the sunroof fuse goes from the ignition switch to fuse 1( according to my Bentlley). Verify on your car that fuse 1 is for the sunroof. If so, measure from the fuse to ground with the ignition switch off. Do the same with it on. If it is 12vdc both times, I think the ignition switch is bad.
Note. The common point of failure between both these items is the ignition switch. These tests should help verify that's the problem.
Done any electrical work on the car recently? Anything get shorted that you recall?
Last edited by autobonrun; 05-30-2006 at 11:09 PM.
#7
Burning Brakes
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I've only had the car about 6 weeks, it has been like this since I got as far as I know. I'll test those but it does seem that there needs to be a common problem for both windows and sunroof to be affected so I'll look at the ignition switch as well.
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#9
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I found the problem for the windows - there was a jumper wire in the fuse panel supplying constant power to the window fuse, thus bypassing the relay altogether. I am not sure what is causing the sunroof problem but I do know that pulling the sunroof fuse out does not disable the sunroof so there must be another connection being made somewhere. I see a few wire splices made behind the ignition under the dash but I have no idea what is what down there. Does anybody have a wiring diagram that shows the connections from the ignition switch?
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Originally Posted by Rick964
I found the problem for the windows - there was a jumper wire in the fuse panel supplying constant power to the window fuse, thus bypassing the relay altogether. I am not sure what is causing the sunroof problem but I do know that pulling the sunroof fuse out does not disable the sunroof so there must be another connection being made somewhere. I see a few wire splices made behind the ignition under the dash but I have no idea what is what down there. Does anybody have a wiring diagram that shows the connections from the ignition switch?
I don't know why people change the wiring like that. I guess they think they know more than the engineers that designed the car. Anyway, with jumpers and such in the car, all bets are off on giving advice.
Anyway, you should be able to find the "original" circuitry in the link.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_...l_diagrams.htm
#11
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Originally Posted by autobonrun
I don't know why people change the wiring like that. I guess they think they know more than the engineers that designed the car. Anyway, with jumpers and such in the car, all bets are off on giving advice.
Anyway, you should be able to find the "original" circuitry in the link.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_...l_diagrams.htm
Anyway, you should be able to find the "original" circuitry in the link.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_...l_diagrams.htm
Maybe I am blind, I've looked at the wiring diagrams on that Pelican link but I do not see the sunroof switch or motor anywhere.
#12
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Originally Posted by Rick964
I believe there was once an alarm in the car that a PO had removed, that shop may havce done some wierd things to the car when installing or removing the system.
Maybe I am blind, I've looked at the wiring diagrams on that Pelican link but I do not see the sunroof switch or motor anywhere.
Maybe I am blind, I've looked at the wiring diagrams on that Pelican link but I do not see the sunroof switch or motor anywhere.
I'll describe the circuit from Bentley. There's not much to it.
You should be able to draw it.
At the top of a sheet of paper write "Hot with Ignition switch on/start"
Below that is Fuse #1 (25amp).
Below that and to the left of your paper draw a box with 4 pin out connections on the right side of the box. From top to bottom, label them pin 1,3,2,4. Over to the right, draw a box labeled "Sunroof Motor" with a blue and yellow wire coming from it's left side to connectors.
A red/blue wire goes from the bottom of Fuse 1 to pin 1 on the switch.
The next pin below pin 1 is pin 3. A brown wire goes from there to ground (G5). Just draw a ground symbol near pin 3.
Below that is pin 2.
A Black wire goes from that to the blue wire from the sunroof motor.
Below pin 2 on the switch is pin 4.
A Black wire goes from that to the Yellow wire from the sunroof motor.
Basically, when you activate the switch in one direction, pin 1 (hot) is connected to pin 4. At the same time pin 3 (ground) is connected to pin 2. So, +12v is connected to the yellow wire of the motor. Ground is connected to the Blue wire of the motor.
When you activate the switch in the opposite direction, pin 1 (hot) is connected to pin 2 and pin 3 (ground) gets connected to pin 4, reversing the motor.
That's it. Not much to it.
I'd recommend getting the Bentley manual if you plan to keep the car any significant time.
#13
Burning Brakes
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autobonrun , thanks very much. a very simple schematic indeed, but having the colors really helps. I am going to tackle this today and figure it out. I will definitely look into the Bentley book, I am familiar with it but have never picked on up.
#14
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Ok, I now understand how the switch is supposed to be wired but due to the tangle of wires running under the dash it is hard to chase down where the +12v for the sunroof switch is coming from so I cut off the existing power into the switch (and taped it up and put it out of the way then I ran a new line from the fuse panel to sunroof switch. Now I have ignition switched power and the 25a fuse in place.
I can't imagine how the car got this way to begin with, I know there was once an alarm that a PO took out but sunroof and window power being switched around doesn't make any sense.
I can't imagine how the car got this way to begin with, I know there was once an alarm that a PO took out but sunroof and window power being switched around doesn't make any sense.
Last edited by Rick964; 06-02-2006 at 03:09 PM.