Frank Sinatra

My Bro is considering buying a 75 911S. I was wondering if yall could point out some of the Good and Bad things about this car, mechanically speaking. Thanks

Frank Sinatra

I know this is a huge topic, but any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

RJT

Frank.....74-77 911s were definately NOT Porsches best years! 74 was not quite as bad as the others because it didn't have the smog crap, EGR, Thermal reactors that the 75-77s had. But these cars had problems with head studs pulling because of the magneseum case. The cars also ran very hot. Chain tensioners were known to fail.
If you find one of these years that has been updated with all the right stuff, it can be a great, reliable fun car. If the car has NOT been updated, look at spending $$$ to get it right. You could spend more on the updates than what the car is really worth. "Been there done that"!!!
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Frank Sinatra

Thanks for the info RJT <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

Frank Sinatra

Sorry for my stupidity, but what does EGR mean. As far as the smog stuff goes. Was it just something to do with the Exhaust. If it is, would it be possible to take out what ever the smog crap is, and run a straight pipe from the exhaust headers, to some sort of aftermarket muffler. Do you now what the price is to have the chain tensioner problem fixed. Do you think its possible for an average tinkerer, with the right manuals to fix the chain tensioner problem themselves? Do you have any recomendations on what to do about the heat issue? Thanks once again.

Frankie S.

Frank Sinatra

Oh, one more thing. I remember reading somewhere that some of the 914s, VW bus things, and other VW and Porsche cars of around those years with the Magnesium cases were prone to catch fire. Did the 75 S have any fire issues.
Thanks Again, Frankie S.

RJT

Lets see if I can remember....EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation system. A fancy word for smog crap! If you are not in California, like I used to be, you can rebuild the motor without all the smog stuff on it. The EGR, thermal reactors, air injection pump added so much stress to the 2.7 motor it didn't last too long before problems happened. The tensioners, tensioner support shaft, idler sprockets along with the timing chain guides were REAL problems and had to be replaced or better, updated to the SC setup. Heat from the smog crap caused lots of trouble, engine seals would leak, the flexible parts of the fuel lines would dry out quickly causing fuel leaks. There were problems with the brake master cylinder leaking. Valve guides wore quickly due to the softer alloy. The clutch cable made a 90 degree turn at the tranny which made it wear out fast.
You want me to go on?
But like I said earlier, if a 75 car is still running around today, some or all of these problems may have been adressed. Depending on your level of wrenching, alot of things can be DIY. My 74 911 was completely "done" and was one of my favorites. Just do a PPI to make sure what has and HAS NOT been done to the car. There are people that will say no matter what has been done, still walk away from a 75-77 911! I don't know what price is on the car you are looking at, but it shouldn't be more than 8-10 grand. And thats with alot of the fixes already done!

RJT

Frank....I just reread my post.....Chain tensioners should be updated to Carrera specs not SC.

Frank Sinatra

Thankyou very much RJT. This is some really good info. My brother is actually the one who might be buying the car. Im just helping him find some info on this model. Hopefully, he will sign up with rennlist soon, and you guys can talk or type directly with one another. Anyways, back to the issue at hand. At the end of your first paragraph you asked if i wanted you to go on. Please do, even though im not buying the car, im still interested in learning everything and anything about Porsche. And plus you are really helping my Bro. Im sure hes reading this right now, hes probably just to scared to start typing,hehehehe.
Please excuse my stupididty once again, What is a PPI. Im not sure if its a cali car or not, but i will get some more info soon. To learn a little more about this model, Ive got another question. What kind of things did Porsche do to help prevent rust problems with this model. Thanks Again, Frankie S.

hoosierdaddy

Frank
You need to learn the history of the car. The mid year porsche ( which is what you are looking at ) can be one of the best buys out there. Due to there age most of the past problems have been addressed .Yes these cars did have some of the problems mentioned but from what I see there is no problem free Porsche . Get a PPI unless you really trust the info you get on the car . You could move up and look at an SC but wait they break head studs and some how that is different from pulling head studs except when you write the check.
Jim

RJT

PPI stands for Pre Purchase Inspection. An independent Porsche shop will charge $200-300 to do a complete check of the car top to bottom. A P dealership can do it too but would probably charge more and might not spend the time to do a thurough check. It depends on the dealer. Rust was always a problem in early 911s. Mid 70s were a little better and got better in the 80s etc. Major rust potential under the battery up front. Behind the headlight buckets also. You asked about possible fire hazards...Usually happened when a engine was neglected, oil build up, fuel lines leaking, and then overheated....poof!
Another problem was the engine had a tendency to backfire up through the intake. This was $$$ if it happened. An inexpensive "pop valve" installed into the air box solved this.
Again the price of the car might be attractive and the car might look great. But figure in the cost of doing all of these fixes and your Bro might want to check out some newer years. 84 and up are great cars and there are some deals right now.
If you are in the Houston area you can get a PPI at RENNSPORT owned by Mike Callas. I was on the pit crew with him when we raced in the American LeMans series in 1999.

Frank Sinatra

Thanks for the really good info RJT. The car is actually in the seattle area, so i dont think hes going to be able to take it to Rennsport. But whenever i buy my first Porsche I will definatley take it there. Hopefully this weekend i will have some free time so i can go check it out. Thanks again RJT, my brother should sign up soon so he can ask you some more questions. Later Frankie S.
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Frank Sinatra

And to Hoosier, im not buying the car, my brother is. Im just trying to help him get some quick info on this specific model, so he can make a more educated decision on whether or not he wants to buy the car. And yes, I do need to learn the History of the car. But thanks for the help, Later Frankie S. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

pjc

The 2.7 Ltr is not the best engine Porsche produced but it is still a great engine with faults that can be fixed (see very rrecent Dempsey book on rebuilding 911 engines - his book is based on a 2.7 Ltr 911S engine). OK the smog crap fitted to the US cars did not help.

These engines were fitted with a 5 blade fan raher than the previous 11 blade. This was deliberately done to increase the working temperature of the engine and reduce emissions. A standard fix is to fit the 11 blader. I suspect many of these cars have been converted to the SSI exhaust system which helps the engine breath better but check it out - no emissions kit.

The magnesium engine is light but can allow the head studs to pull - listen for phu-phut noise as if the exhaust is leaking.

The chain tensioner argument applies to ALL 911 engines up to 1984 and the force feed Carrera types can easily be retro-fitted without taking the engine out.

With a good service history and careful handling the engines can go on for 150,000 miles + without a teardown. Mine has 104,000 miles on the clock and the leak down and cylinder pressures are as good as the day it left the factory. The big problem you guys have in the US is temperature - heat is the killer for this engine.

PJC

hoosierdaddy

Guys , I drive a 77s with 2.7 , ssi's , carrera chain tensioners , turbo valve covers and 5 blade fan and with current temps being in the upper 70's to low 80's my cars temp is 170-175 . I did not do all the above upgrades myself but it does show you can get these motors in a decent operating range and as Rodert said check for rust on any of these cars , specially 76 on back . So I do chuckle a bit when I read all negatives about mid year P-cars.