theiceman

I don't want to open a huge can of worms here but as a new owner of my 78 911SC I am doing everything since I do not know the history. Things are going well with my project . I decided to inspect my CV joints after 170,000km and sure enough they were shot ( 3 of the 4 had the classic metal fatigue ) but not bad for almost 30 years. Waiting for replacements to show up.While the car is in the air I wanted to replace the gear oil. My manual says SAE 90 but does it mean 75w 90 ? I saw the posts earlier but is there a brand that everyone uses that I should be aware of ? I can't get everything you guys can here in Canada but if you guys can tell me what works with my 915 gearbox I can get it shipped over. Thanks in advance. PS I'll take advice on Brake fluid too !!!

ice

BER

I have been using Swepco 201 in my two 911's for the last 15 years; both have the 915 gearbox. I normally use 90 wt. or 80w90 depending what I can get my hands on.

JackOlsen

Swepco is the one to use.

r911

ditto

for the brake fluid, Motul is good - or got to Pelcian and search on brake + fluid

theiceman

Thanks guys, I guess I am getting the swepco 201 .. and motu;

Peter Zimmermann

ice: I assume that your SC will be a daily driver/weekend toy. I have used Kendall 85/90W in Porsche gearboxes (pre-'87) for thirty years, it has a wonderful balance of lubricity for the bearings and temp control, and the correct properties that allow the moly-coated synchro rings to work properly. Nothing against the other products mentioned (I never used them) but if you can find Kendall it's great stuff. Castrol LMA is an excellent brake fluid that will work well far past recommended change intervals, and it's easy on your wallet.
FYI: While you're thinking about a brake fluid flush check the dates on the four brake hoses. If they're older than 10 years put a new set of factory originals on before you flush the fluid. If the master looks old, you might consider replacing it also. A good tip on its condition is how black is your brake fluid. If it's really dark the seals inside the master are probably starting to deteriorate. Have fun with the new car!
Pete

theiceman

Thanks Pete

I have been having real problems getting swepco here in Canada so i might research your products and see what I can get. The brake lines are definitely older than ten years old so iwill look into this. I remember reading a thread just a couple of weeks ago on someone who was tryuing to do this and I thought i remember him getting into all kinds of trouble getting the rusted components off. I remember some comments you passed onto him so I will research this. The good think is the car is put away for the winter and Ihave it jacked up witht hte wheels off right now while I inspect the underside and do some work underneath the car. This would be a great time if any to have soem penetrating oil on those brake lines. I noticed you said replace with factory originals. Anyhting against SS brake lines or other type of aftermarket ?

Thask again for oyur input.

Peter Zimmermann

ice: Yes, penetrating oil over a few days should do the trick. Use line wrenches (they look like a socket with a slot in the side) to loosen everthing. The steel lines between the hoses and calipers are available at the dealer if you need them. The trick is to get the line between the chassis and hose loose without complications. Fortunately, the lines are also available, but much harder to install. Factory hoses are always best, many SS hoses are not DOT approved, and for a car driven on the street there is no advantage to using them. Good luck with the project!
Pete

rbcsaver

Remember to get the fill plug out of the tranny FIRST, then the drain plug.
regards,
Steve

theiceman

Steve

Thanks for the input, I learned THAT lesson the hard way on my 944 !!


Pete , Thanks for the tips , i remember that being the other guys problem too so I have allready started on the penetrating oil. I may as well be doing something while I am waiting for my CV joints to show up. I'll keep everyone up to speed on the project.

r911

the right wrenches for the lines look like the letter C - figure out all the sizes you need...

the steel braid hoses cannot be checked for problms like the rubber ones can - if you do get them, get DOT ones and replace every year or so - I use the factory rubber ones....

theiceman

Well guys I jus went out and checked. The rubber lines look in very good condition, the connections though look like I will NEVER get them apart. I am now worried that if I start messing with them I will bust all kinds of stuff like damaging the lines to the caliper or the ones under the car. Don't get me wrong I do not intimidate easily, but I don't want to get into huge expense at this time when I all I really want to do is replace the fluid. Of course if the guys before me had done routine cleaning and maintanance I might not be looking at 30 year old corroson on connections. I also realize that once I bite the bullet and " recondition the connections" I will be fine from this point forward. But this one I will really have to think about .

ice

r911

Go back and squeeze every inch of all the lines. If they feel fine then you should be at only low risk. So just replace the fluid. Spray Kroil or pbBlaster on the connects everytime you get under there for the next year or two. Then they should come apart pretty easily. Also consider having a shop relpace the lines - it is not that spendy and they will have more experience. It WILL have to be done sooner or later.

theiceman

Thanks

I think that ig great advice

I checked all the lines while under there and they feel rock solid. I cleaned them up while i was asesseing the situation and they even look new. I can see all the writing on them . I will go withthat plan at htis time. My brother is a ford mech and once in a while he throws my car on his hoist so I can look under. I will get his opinion has he has tonnes of experience with this stuff.

Thanks again