Half shaft replacement
09-19-2005, 11:18 AM
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Half shaft replacement
Have a tear in one of my half shaft boots and a spare half shaft in decent shape. Do you think it is ok to re-use the transmission side axel bolts when replacing the shaft? I plan to rebuild the one I take out later and use as a spare. 1987 911 coupe. Thanks.
09-19-2005, 03:52 PM
#3
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Thanks Pete. Do you know if there is a way to tell if the joint has been damaged before going to the trouble of repacking with a new boot? The shafts are about 3 race seasons old. Don't know for sure how long the hole has been there.
09-19-2005, 04:12 PM
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Kurt, you can take the joint apart and inspect it, looking for galling or obvious wear. In any event, if the boot is fractured, you have to clean the joint to hospital standard, and regrease before you replace the boot.
If there is wear, or you find you need other parts, buying a complete 1/2 shaft ***'y is cheaper and Much easier than rebuilding them yourself.
If there is wear, or you find you need other parts, buying a complete 1/2 shaft ***'y is cheaper and Much easier than rebuilding them yourself.
09-19-2005, 06:04 PM
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vertex auto has rebuilt ones - send in your core. It was tough for me to find a boot to fit = so just bought the replacement unit and changed it out. Not hard.
09-19-2005, 06:21 PM
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Kurt, One more thing. The OE bolts are "Triple Square" heads. This is like a torx head, but with 12 points instead of 6. DO NOT try to use a torx or Allen tool. you WILL strip the bolts.
You can get a set of three "triples" for about $20.00 at a car parts store,
Next, use a dental pick or something similar to clean the heads before you try to remove them. If the tool does not bottom in the bolt head, they will likely strip. Ask me how I know.
You can use new Allen head bolts, but they are pretty much at their limit at 30 F/lb.of torque (torque spec for my car, YRMV--look it up.
Different cars use different lengths too. Mine is 50 mm, some are 48 and I think the turbos were something like 54 or so. Yes 2 mmcan be the difference in fitting or not, so measure yours carefully if you are going to replace them. They cost a few bucks each, or under $20.00 Canadian for 50 (you need 24) if you buy a box from an industrial supplier. Remember to get the metric equivilent of Grade 8.
Last, if you do glitch any of the bolts, replace them. It will come back to haunt you if you try to reuse them.
And torque to spec, checking after about 100 miles for loose ones. They DO loosen.
Good luck
You can get a set of three "triples" for about $20.00 at a car parts store,
Next, use a dental pick or something similar to clean the heads before you try to remove them. If the tool does not bottom in the bolt head, they will likely strip. Ask me how I know.
You can use new Allen head bolts, but they are pretty much at their limit at 30 F/lb.of torque (torque spec for my car, YRMV--look it up.
Different cars use different lengths too. Mine is 50 mm, some are 48 and I think the turbos were something like 54 or so. Yes 2 mmcan be the difference in fitting or not, so measure yours carefully if you are going to replace them. They cost a few bucks each, or under $20.00 Canadian for 50 (you need 24) if you buy a box from an industrial supplier. Remember to get the metric equivilent of Grade 8.
Last, if you do glitch any of the bolts, replace them. It will come back to haunt you if you try to reuse them.
And torque to spec, checking after about 100 miles for loose ones. They DO loosen.
Good luck
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09-20-2005, 01:08 PM
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Kurt: Dave makes a couple of very good points (digging the crud out of the bolt head, be sure to use the proper tools), however, by the time your car came along CV joint bolts were 12.9 material, 10mm thread, and their required torque spec was 83Nm, about 60 lb/ft. When bolt replacement was necessary I always purchased new bolts from the dealer, by part number. My objective was to "install 'em and forget 'em." No follow-up re-torque is necessary if proper procedure is followed.
Pete
Pete
