Opinion on 66 911 price
#1
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It's a nice looking in pretty good shape, short wheel base 911 with ~50k miles. New carbs and some other parts. Is a weekly driver for the current owner. Rust around battery box. I have to admit I have no real idea what the car might be worth. I sold a rust bucket/barn find years ago that had 41K miles for $4000.00. That car had not been in the daylight since 1974 (sold it in 99). I have no real data to draw on and can't locate a recent Excellence issue for what that's worth.
No sunroof, interior looks above average but it's old. Doesn't look like it has ever been "restored". Any opinions would be great.
Oh yeah, if I got it, it would be with the plan of keping it. Not looking to flip it.
No sunroof, interior looks above average but it's old. Doesn't look like it has ever been "restored". Any opinions would be great.
Oh yeah, if I got it, it would be with the plan of keping it. Not looking to flip it.
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Check really really close for any other rust, and if it is rusty anywhere else, I'd almost say its not worth buying at any price... except as a parts car. Also and engine rebuild could cost as much as the car.... so get a good PPI at a specialist before you buy.
For some reason (deserved or not) these early cars (other than "S" models) do not seem to be valued by the market, so they aren't that expensive... under $10K I'd guess? but are actually pretty rare... so if tastes shift, it could appreciate.... or not... they certainly don;t seem to be on the same price curve as the 70-73 cars.
For some reason (deserved or not) these early cars (other than "S" models) do not seem to be valued by the market, so they aren't that expensive... under $10K I'd guess? but are actually pretty rare... so if tastes shift, it could appreciate.... or not... they certainly don;t seem to be on the same price curve as the 70-73 cars.
#5
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He's wanting more for it than I think it's worth. As bad as I'd like to have one, I think I am going to hold off for now. I am beginning to think that if I am going to buy something like that as a keeper, I'd rather buy one that has been restored by a reputable shop and just pay more for it up front.
#6
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My advice... if you are buying an old car, pay the money for a really good one... it will cost less in the long run, look better, be more fun and probably out-perform the market (whatever the market does... up or down).
IMHO really good condition origional "survivor" cars are the hot ticket... good documentation and origionality are going to be the key to long term value... these are hard to find but they are around and still do not comment the premium in the market that I believe they will eventually get... so they are a good investment opportunity, I think.
IMHO really good condition origional "survivor" cars are the hot ticket... good documentation and origionality are going to be the key to long term value... these are hard to find but they are around and still do not comment the premium in the market that I believe they will eventually get... so they are a good investment opportunity, I think.
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To the contrary, the pre 69 (short wheelbase) cars are bringing a premium right of late (a restored one just sold on ebay for 31k!). There are a lot of buyers getting these cars for Track (especially Rally) because of short wheelbase.
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I've been searching the old 911 adds for about a month and it's definitely getting more and more difficlut to find one that is not rusted.
Cars are selling pretty quickly also. The prices are starting to get a little crazy even for cars that are not s's. RS\RSR clones are the hot ticket also. Ones that are built off of T's and E's are selling in the 30's. There are still a few cars out there but it is becoming a seller's market. I just missed out on a few cars, and every car posted generates a lot of interest.
I think the excellence market update is a little behind the times.
Matt
Cars are selling pretty quickly also. The prices are starting to get a little crazy even for cars that are not s's. RS\RSR clones are the hot ticket also. Ones that are built off of T's and E's are selling in the 30's. There are still a few cars out there but it is becoming a seller's market. I just missed out on a few cars, and every car posted generates a lot of interest.
I think the excellence market update is a little behind the times.
Matt
#10
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i agree with excellence market updates being off. id go with the pml (porsche market letter), which is a mag that comes out i think bi,minthly if not monthly. their valuations are much closer to true life.
and i will second the statement about buying the best example you can. you wil definitly spend alot less in the long run by paying it up front for a good one, instead of a bad one that you fix up. if you buy a lesser quality version and put money in to make it as nice as a better one, you will spend twice as much.
check for rust.. front pan, battery tray, floors, take closeexamination of the rear deck area for any signs of water damege froma bad rear window seal, check where the fenders bolt to the body near the trunk and in the same spot under the wheel wells, check the pedal area, etc.. you know any place water may get trapped or any nasty chemicals may leak and rot everything out.
get a compression and leak down test.
get the best and most original example you can find. if its been modified and or bastardised you have somthing with less value and you have a greater chance that what ever was modified might have been done incorrectly or really messed up.
documentationa and recipts are key.
tool kits and original owner paperwork are nice to have too.
and i will second the statement about buying the best example you can. you wil definitly spend alot less in the long run by paying it up front for a good one, instead of a bad one that you fix up. if you buy a lesser quality version and put money in to make it as nice as a better one, you will spend twice as much.
check for rust.. front pan, battery tray, floors, take closeexamination of the rear deck area for any signs of water damege froma bad rear window seal, check where the fenders bolt to the body near the trunk and in the same spot under the wheel wells, check the pedal area, etc.. you know any place water may get trapped or any nasty chemicals may leak and rot everything out.
get a compression and leak down test.
get the best and most original example you can find. if its been modified and or bastardised you have somthing with less value and you have a greater chance that what ever was modified might have been done incorrectly or really messed up.
documentationa and recipts are key.
tool kits and original owner paperwork are nice to have too.
#11
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Originally Posted by mxbanker
To the contrary, the pre 69 (short wheelbase) cars are bringing a premium right of late (a restored one just sold on ebay for 31k!). There are a lot of buyers getting these cars for Track (especially Rally) because of short wheelbase.
FYI
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#12
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Hi John,
I just counted my receipts over the past 23 years of restoration of my 1966 coupe and got $26,000, and the motor is still not assembled, and the front and rear windows are not yet installed, as I am doing the interior now. As all have said above, unless you are prepared to take on a multi year restoration like I have, rotisserie and nut and bolt, buy a rust free car in the beginning. These early cars have a tendency to rust floors, front suspension pans and rear shelves due to leaky rear windows. But, when I am done, I'll have a 2,200 pound car with a 2.7 260 hp motor!! Yippee.
Tom
I just counted my receipts over the past 23 years of restoration of my 1966 coupe and got $26,000, and the motor is still not assembled, and the front and rear windows are not yet installed, as I am doing the interior now. As all have said above, unless you are prepared to take on a multi year restoration like I have, rotisserie and nut and bolt, buy a rust free car in the beginning. These early cars have a tendency to rust floors, front suspension pans and rear shelves due to leaky rear windows. But, when I am done, I'll have a 2,200 pound car with a 2.7 260 hp motor!! Yippee.
Tom