Tmack

I know lugnuts should be re-torques after new tires have been on for 25 miles or so but, should the lugnuts be torqued with the tires on the ground or off?

GrantG

Usually done on the ground, but I'm not sure if it matters. I usually tighten them by feel (but not to full torque) in the air and then torque them to spec (~96 ft./lbs) once on the ground.

Tmack

Thanks

Gost

I had my tires torqued by a shop after an inspection and I could not for the life of me get them loose. I went back to the shop to have them loosened with their heavy duty impact gun and then only torqued them to 60lbs. I had a bad experience snapping a lug when I first got the car and am sooo paranoid at doing that again. It was a PIA to get the broken lug off. I use anti sieze as well on the lugs and still couldn't budge them when the shop mounted the wheels. I do as Grant say's but never torque to 96lbs. I have no clue why my lugs won't loosen at that torque and I put a huge amount of force on the wrench. I'm no sissy either by the way. I don't get it! 60lbs works for me and they never loosen even after 6yrs of doing so and hitting speeds over 140mph. Maybe I'm nuts but it works for me.

Gordon

JackOlsen

94 foot pounds, on the ground. But anything close to that will probably be fine.

There's an appropriate kind of anti-sieze, but I change mine so often it's not an issue for me.

GrantG

Gordon - do as Jack says and apply a bit of Copper hi-temp anti-seize (Permatex is the brand I use, i think). You'll never have a problem - use a very small amount...

Gost

I'll get some Grant just for the lugs. Question...besides the threads, is it beneficial to put anti-sieze on the bottom of the lug where it contacts the rim?

Thanks

r911

you mean the rounded part? yes - absolutely

Optimolly is what P AG said to use in their TSB - which also sez where to put it. Dealers have it. It will not change the torque you need to apply.
(and yes, I've used other brands sometimes)

Be sure to use a a very thin layer.

Gost

Great Randy, I'll pick some up and hopefully my lugnut paranoia will drift away.

ron mcatee

The reason for applying the anti-sieze to the rounded area on the back of the lug nut is to provide for non-siezure of the alloys in the wheels and the lugnuts. If there is no lubricant , the alloys can fuze somewhat and require extraordinary efforts to get off. My experience was with a 1969 Targa that had no anti-sieze. Then the tire had a blowout at 80 mph. Had to chisel the lugnut off and in turn replace the lug bolt and lugnut after returning home. It only takes a very little film to make it work. Torque the lugnuts to 94 ft lbs. Never had a problem since.

rbcsaver

I have learned to stay away from shops that don't work on high end cars,
That's because the shop did not hand torque them, they used their impasct wrench with a torque clutch adapter, that isn't worth spit, as you figured out. Isist on hand torqued and hand them your wrench, set at 94 psi. This will solve your problems. BTW, I always use anti-seize.
I'm afraid that the anti-seize wiull on allow thw air wrech monkeys to get your lugs even tighter. You may want to consider a different garage or provide your own 1/2" torque wrench.
Steve

r911

could be that - but the soft Al will smear or spall on the forged Fuchs

bottom line - 1. keep morons away from your car -- especially if they have power weapons (tools)
2. use anti-sieze as above -- just a little

Gost

Agreed Randy, that is the bottom line.