Oil brand and weight
#2
You're going to get about a million opinions on this one...
Many use Mobile 1. I use any name brand conventional oil from Valvoline, Penzoil, Castrol, Quaker State, etc in 20W 50.
Porsche also has a recommended list of oils that a quick search might reveal...
Jay
90 964
Many use Mobile 1. I use any name brand conventional oil from Valvoline, Penzoil, Castrol, Quaker State, etc in 20W 50.
Porsche also has a recommended list of oils that a quick search might reveal...
Jay
90 964
Last edited by Jay H; 03-14-2005 at 07:38 PM.
#3
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I use Amsoil 20W-50 Synthetic. The stuff is outstanding if you ask me. Check out the web site at www.amsoil.com and see for yourself! Best wishes - Jay
#4
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User mmm on Pelican did a survey. Of the respondents (25 - 30 users), virtually all were either Mobile One or Castrol GTX & pretty well universally 20W50 with the odd 15W50.
Ian
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#5
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For my HIGH mileage '82 SC - Kendall GT1 20W/50. For ALL Porsche 911s built before the synthetic revolution - Kendall GT1 20W/50. First alternate - Valvoline. 2nd alternate - Quaker State. Favored synthetic - Mobil 1.
Pete
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PO used Kendall in the car, 20W-50. After RTFM, with winter approaching, I put Castrol Syntec 10W-40 (New England temps can hit sub-zero on occasion). Was thinking of trying to find 5W-40 Delvac(?) at the VW dealer, but never made it down there. Once the warmer weather hits, the oil question will come back for me again, for the 20W-50. So far, oil temps have stayed just over the top of the bottom white block on the gauge, after 1 hour of driving.
As oils go, Castrol GTX is probably my favorite Dino. After thoroughly abusing my daily driver SHO at Road Atlanta, blowing the engine due to mechanical failure (connecting rod bolt sheared) and inspecting the components after, I have great respect for the AMSOil synthetics, and will likely consider that for the 911.
Personally, I despise the Big Q, as well as Penn. I can tell on every SHO engine I work on if they've used one of those two, because of the heavy caramelling deposits they leave on the valvetrain (and I always confirm the oil type with the owner). Cam-to-cam timing chain tensioners get gumped up, and end up not being able to release pressure. GTX kept my own SHO engines very clean, even under serious useage on the track (15psi Vortech-induced boost up to 8,000 rpms). I did switch that engine over to AMSOil 5W-30 synth last summer, but ended up blowing the transaxle (again), and sold the car before getting more than one oil change out of it.
I ran M1 in my daily driver until 105k (so did PO), at which point I spun a rod bearing. This was the 2nd M1 SHO engine I spun a bearing on (other one was 74k). I was NOT impressed. Personal observations, I've found on the DOHC engines that the M1 drips nearly completely off the cams if the car sits for any length of time (2+ weeks). I switched over to AMSOil, didn't have a problem with the engine in the following 15k miles (until after 45 minutes at WOT/6500 rpms on day two at Road Atlanta).
Yeah, I'm a little sick, being proud of blowing it up.
http://www.sinclairmfg.com/fred/damage1_800.jpg
http://www.sinclairmfg.com/fred/damage2_800.jpg
http://www.sinclairmfg.com/fred/ramp_truck1.jpg
Anyway, component-wise, the wrist pin is pretty clean, one scoremark, no burning.
This is a Pennzoil engine.
http://www.neshospecialists.com/imag..._cover_off.jpg
This is a GTX engine.
http://www.neshospecialists.com/images/cams_clean.jpg
As always, it's just an opinion, and Your Mileage May Vary.
As oils go, Castrol GTX is probably my favorite Dino. After thoroughly abusing my daily driver SHO at Road Atlanta, blowing the engine due to mechanical failure (connecting rod bolt sheared) and inspecting the components after, I have great respect for the AMSOil synthetics, and will likely consider that for the 911.
Personally, I despise the Big Q, as well as Penn. I can tell on every SHO engine I work on if they've used one of those two, because of the heavy caramelling deposits they leave on the valvetrain (and I always confirm the oil type with the owner). Cam-to-cam timing chain tensioners get gumped up, and end up not being able to release pressure. GTX kept my own SHO engines very clean, even under serious useage on the track (15psi Vortech-induced boost up to 8,000 rpms). I did switch that engine over to AMSOil 5W-30 synth last summer, but ended up blowing the transaxle (again), and sold the car before getting more than one oil change out of it.
I ran M1 in my daily driver until 105k (so did PO), at which point I spun a rod bearing. This was the 2nd M1 SHO engine I spun a bearing on (other one was 74k). I was NOT impressed. Personal observations, I've found on the DOHC engines that the M1 drips nearly completely off the cams if the car sits for any length of time (2+ weeks). I switched over to AMSOil, didn't have a problem with the engine in the following 15k miles (until after 45 minutes at WOT/6500 rpms on day two at Road Atlanta).
Yeah, I'm a little sick, being proud of blowing it up.
http://www.sinclairmfg.com/fred/damage1_800.jpg
http://www.sinclairmfg.com/fred/damage2_800.jpg
http://www.sinclairmfg.com/fred/ramp_truck1.jpg
Anyway, component-wise, the wrist pin is pretty clean, one scoremark, no burning.
This is a Pennzoil engine.
http://www.neshospecialists.com/imag..._cover_off.jpg
This is a GTX engine.
http://www.neshospecialists.com/images/cams_clean.jpg
As always, it's just an opinion, and Your Mileage May Vary.
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#8
I ran Redline 20/50 in my SC. As far as I have been able to tell,
cost no object, Redline is one of the best lubricants on the market.
I am breaking in my newly rebuilt 3.2 with Valvoline 20/50
and will most likely go to Redline after the breakin.
I have Royal Purple tranny fluid in the G-50 box
and perfer synthetics over the dino in all
applications. Oil is like ice cream, everybody has
a favorite ! That is why Baskin Robins makes
32 favors !
Good Luck
Chuck
cost no object, Redline is one of the best lubricants on the market.
I am breaking in my newly rebuilt 3.2 with Valvoline 20/50
and will most likely go to Redline after the breakin.
I have Royal Purple tranny fluid in the G-50 box
and perfer synthetics over the dino in all
applications. Oil is like ice cream, everybody has
a favorite ! That is why Baskin Robins makes
32 favors !
Good Luck
Chuck
#9
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I am damn glad I read this. I was planning on using 10/40, but the consensus seems to be that a heavier weight is in order. The manual is not crystal clear on what is the 'recommended' weight.
#10
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The 84 Manual has a very nice temperature "gauge" for what oil to use - if your ambient temps are from X to Y, use this weight oil, etc. They show the crossover of the temp ranges / oil weights nicely.
#13
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Castrol Magnatech 10w40 which in NZ suits our ambient temp range.
Semi-syn at $40.00 for a 4 litre pack, it is a cheap no brainer to change every 6months.
This oil is recommeded by JZ Machtech who are the UK's foremost independant.
Unless you have a modern multi-vavle engine Mobil 1 is not recommended, apparently......
Semi-syn at $40.00 for a 4 litre pack, it is a cheap no brainer to change every 6months.
This oil is recommeded by JZ Machtech who are the UK's foremost independant.
Unless you have a modern multi-vavle engine Mobil 1 is not recommended, apparently......