reading a 83sc temperature gauge
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does anyone know what each black mark on the temp gauge means. What are the Farienhiet temps for each black mark. Thanks John
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The temp guage has numbers in deg. C, but you need to look way to the side to see them:
![](http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/image_uploads/gaugr2.jpg)
- lowest white block 60 degC ( 140F)
- next up white mark, 90 degC ( 194F)
- next white up, 120 degC ( 248 degF)
- lower part of next up red block, 150 degC ( 302F)
Tom
![](http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/image_uploads/gaugr2.jpg)
- lowest white block 60 degC ( 140F)
- next up white mark, 90 degC ( 194F)
- next white up, 120 degC ( 248 degF)
- lower part of next up red block, 150 degC ( 302F)
Tom
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Originally posted by emcon5
The temp guage has numbers in deg. C, but you need to look way to the side to see them:
The temp guage has numbers in deg. C, but you need to look way to the side to see them:
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An excerpt from an article I wrote for our regional PCA magazine:
For those with "zones" on their oil temp gauge, if you look from the right side onto the far left edge of the gauge, you'll see the degree centigrade temperatures that the zones correspond to. An easy upgrade, which takes less than an hour and around $70 in parts, is to swap out the "zone" oil temp gauge for a numeric gauge, which includes changing the oil temp sensor on the engine. Here's how do do it: First, getting the gauge out of the dash is simplicity itself: open the front hood, move the carpet aside behind the master cylinder, and push the housing with the oil temp/oil pressure gauges out of the dash. 4 small screws hold the oil temp portion in the larger housing. Old out, new in, change wires to new, push housing back into the dash. The second part requires replacing the existing temperature sender on the engine with the new, pre-1977, sender. The sender is on the right side of the engine where the cam oil line comes out at the base of the fan. You'll see a yellow/black wire attached to the end of it. Detach the wire, undo the existing sender, put the new sender in (don't forget the washer), attach the wire, and you're done.
For those with "zones" on their oil temp gauge, if you look from the right side onto the far left edge of the gauge, you'll see the degree centigrade temperatures that the zones correspond to. An easy upgrade, which takes less than an hour and around $70 in parts, is to swap out the "zone" oil temp gauge for a numeric gauge, which includes changing the oil temp sensor on the engine. Here's how do do it: First, getting the gauge out of the dash is simplicity itself: open the front hood, move the carpet aside behind the master cylinder, and push the housing with the oil temp/oil pressure gauges out of the dash. 4 small screws hold the oil temp portion in the larger housing. Old out, new in, change wires to new, push housing back into the dash. The second part requires replacing the existing temperature sender on the engine with the new, pre-1977, sender. The sender is on the right side of the engine where the cam oil line comes out at the base of the fan. You'll see a yellow/black wire attached to the end of it. Detach the wire, undo the existing sender, put the new sender in (don't forget the washer), attach the wire, and you're done.
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Originally posted by Bill Gregory
An easy upgrade, which takes less than an hour and around $70 in parts, is to swap out the "zone" oil temp gauge for a numeric gauge, which includes changing the oil temp sensor on the engine.
An easy upgrade, which takes less than an hour and around $70 in parts, is to swap out the "zone" oil temp gauge for a numeric gauge, which includes changing the oil temp sensor on the engine.
The idiot guage works fine for me. The first line is operating temp (194º) the second line is where I start worrying (248º). I will be parked on the side of the road well before it gets anywhere near the red.
Knowing the exact temp does nothing for me. As long as I know it is in the normal range, I am happy.
Tom
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I know a lot of people like to change to the numbered guage, but you really won't gain anything from doing this except a lighter wallet
One place the numeric temperature gauge is handy is for those that take their 911's to the track. Track demands are far different than street driving, and being able to glance at the gauge and see 220 or 240 or whatever is worthwhile.
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Doug anything between 8 o'clock and 9 o'clock(105 C/ 221 F) on the guage is norm for me.. 88 3.2. 212 degrees is necessary to get rid of the H20 in the oil from condensation.