adding power door locks?
Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 24
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From: Akron, OH
adding power door locks?
ANyone added power door locks to a 911? (1980's/70's vintage?) I'm thinking of adding power door locks and a car alarm as a winter project, and was wondering how hard it is to do. I've seen several aftermarket kits as was wondering how hard they are to do.
Thanks!
Chuck
1980 911 SC
Thanks!
Chuck
1980 911 SC
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Fremont, CA
When I bought my car, it had a Viper alarm with a keyless entry setup. There is an actuator in each door, with an arm connected to the bar that connects the lock cylinder with the unlock ****/button assembly. It looks like it should be an fairly straightforward install, the only pain would be finding a hole to run the wiring through.
Tom
Tom
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 86
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From: Newman, California
I've been thinking about doing the same thing to my 82 sc. I need to pull the door panels off this winter and adjust the windows. Maybe
do the alarm and door locks the same time. What systems have you considered? Where are they available?
do the alarm and door locks the same time. What systems have you considered? Where are they available?
Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Akron, OH
<STRONG>
I Was hoping someone could provide an idea... At least I'd like to improve from my manual locks... hopefully get some kind of alarm as well.
Maybe
do the alarm and door locks the same time. What systems have you considered? Where are they available?</STRONG>
do the alarm and door locks the same time. What systems have you considered? Where are they available?</STRONG>
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From: Severna Park, MD
A friend recently installed a kit from Best Buy in his car, no a P-car though. It was pretty straight forward and included a key fob. I am pretty sure Crutchfield sells a kit as well.
Let us know how it turns out. I am interested in the same upgrade for my SC.
Best of luck
Chris
Let us know how it turns out. I am interested in the same upgrade for my SC.
Best of luck
Chris
Racer
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 262
Likes: 1
From: Houston, TX
You guys need to ask Rod Birch at Car Audio Innovations. He is always ready to help. He does hit this forum from time to time but seems to spend more time on the email list. He's our 911 audio guru and is of course also into just about any other gadget you could attach to a car.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 41
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From: Atlanta, GA
I have done a little investigation, as I am interested in the power door lock conversion as well as an alarm system. I found this site Commando Alarmsthat has what appears to be very reasonable prices. The fact that they are relatively SOOOO cheap gives me reservations. They have a 2 door power lock kit for $45, and an alarm system for $40 that includes the remotes and shock sensor. They have accessories that add Glass breakage detection ($13) as well as an Interior motion sensor ($25) that I'd want for the Targa.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 110
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From: Eagle, Pa
I had an Alpine alarm installed in my 83 Sc , and along with it power door locks. They worked great esp with remote entry.
I am not parting out this car and removed the power locks to salvage and see how they were installed. Looks pretty straight forward. If you can install the alarm you can install the power looks. - appears to be just a solenoid.
If interested I can send pics of the power lock from my car. Also give you a great price if you want to buy.
earl
I am not parting out this car and removed the power locks to salvage and see how they were installed. Looks pretty straight forward. If you can install the alarm you can install the power looks. - appears to be just a solenoid.
If interested I can send pics of the power lock from my car. Also give you a great price if you want to buy.
earl
Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Akron, OH
How did you have yours set up? Did they work of the existing manual lock ****, or did you have another switch? Also, did they work from teh key lock on the outside as well?
Thanks!
Chuck
Thanks!
Chuck
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From: Fremont, CA
To better understand how the keyless entry works, it would help to understand how the normal lock mechanism is set up. If you are already familiar with the workings of the door lock mechanism, skip the next paragraph.
As designed, there are 2 ways to lock and unlock the doors, with the key, or with the **** and button inside the car. These two mechanisims are connected by a metal rod, which also goes to the actual lock mechinism in the door latch. The lock cylinder in the door has a lever that hangs down about an inch. When you turn the key one way or the other, this lever moves the metal rod forward or back, locking or unlocking the door. The **** on the inside of the door, and the button on top of the door do the same thing. Push down on the button or turn the ****, and the rod moves and locks the door.
The way the aftermarket keyless entry works is, there is an actuator (solonoid?) that when triggered, pushes or pulls the metal rod to lock or unlock the door. The one in my car (installed by a PO, mated with a Viper alarm) is about the size of a roll of pennies, with a short rod sticking out one end. The actuator rod is connected to the locking rod in the door by a small clamp with set screws. I can still lock and unlock using the key, in fact I did for a few months after I bought the car, as the alarm was disabled. I didn't even know it had keyless entry until I took the door panel off for another reason and found the parts (encouriging me to reconnect the alarm).
Hope this helps,
Tom
As designed, there are 2 ways to lock and unlock the doors, with the key, or with the **** and button inside the car. These two mechanisims are connected by a metal rod, which also goes to the actual lock mechinism in the door latch. The lock cylinder in the door has a lever that hangs down about an inch. When you turn the key one way or the other, this lever moves the metal rod forward or back, locking or unlocking the door. The **** on the inside of the door, and the button on top of the door do the same thing. Push down on the button or turn the ****, and the rod moves and locks the door.
The way the aftermarket keyless entry works is, there is an actuator (solonoid?) that when triggered, pushes or pulls the metal rod to lock or unlock the door. The one in my car (installed by a PO, mated with a Viper alarm) is about the size of a roll of pennies, with a short rod sticking out one end. The actuator rod is connected to the locking rod in the door by a small clamp with set screws. I can still lock and unlock using the key, in fact I did for a few months after I bought the car, as the alarm was disabled. I didn't even know it had keyless entry until I took the door panel off for another reason and found the parts (encouriging me to reconnect the alarm).
Hope this helps,
Tom
Cruisin'
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento
Hi all,
email me directly at hotrod930@msn.com (my shop email address) and I'll forward a picture of an actuator mounted in a 911 door.
Mounting the actual actuator isn't really difficult, you mount it so that nothing (window regulator, etc.), interferes with it and attach a small coupling part between the actuator's supplied rod and the rod that moves your lock mechanism in your door. We sell the actuators for $20, and we only deal with the best ones made by DEI (Viper). I no longer will touch the cheap actuators-they have short lives.
The tricky part is running the wire from the actuator in the door into the car. On the 911's up until the 964 in 1989, the grommets are very difficult to reach in the door jamb, and patience is required to run any wire through the jamb. On one or more occasions, to run actuator wire into the door I've actually used the old speaker wire as a fish to "pull through" the new actuator wires and new speaker wire. Lube things up with Windex to make life easier.
For alarm brands, I no longer deal with any brand other than Viper. They have alarms that I sell with wiring colors and instructions as well as basic keyless entry modules that will also work the actuators.
I don't check these message boards as regularly as I get the 911 digest, so please email me directly with questions...
-Rod
email me directly at hotrod930@msn.com (my shop email address) and I'll forward a picture of an actuator mounted in a 911 door.
Mounting the actual actuator isn't really difficult, you mount it so that nothing (window regulator, etc.), interferes with it and attach a small coupling part between the actuator's supplied rod and the rod that moves your lock mechanism in your door. We sell the actuators for $20, and we only deal with the best ones made by DEI (Viper). I no longer will touch the cheap actuators-they have short lives.
The tricky part is running the wire from the actuator in the door into the car. On the 911's up until the 964 in 1989, the grommets are very difficult to reach in the door jamb, and patience is required to run any wire through the jamb. On one or more occasions, to run actuator wire into the door I've actually used the old speaker wire as a fish to "pull through" the new actuator wires and new speaker wire. Lube things up with Windex to make life easier.
For alarm brands, I no longer deal with any brand other than Viper. They have alarms that I sell with wiring colors and instructions as well as basic keyless entry modules that will also work the actuators.
I don't check these message boards as regularly as I get the 911 digest, so please email me directly with questions...
-Rod
