CarreraAG

Greetings All,

I just purchased my first 1985 3.2 Carrera Targa. I have quick question that I am sure has been discussed a million times so I apologize.

Just did my first oil change. Warmed it up. Drained both tank and motor. New filter. Added 9.5 qts LIQUIDMoly 2050

Here is my question that I can't seem to find an awnser to on the internet. I haven't started it yet but the tank dip stick and level gauge read max. I know it is supposed to read low until it warms up. Is the level reading high because it just needs to be started to circulate it? I just want to know if that is what is supposed to happen before I crank it.

Thanks,
Andy

theiceman

it hasn't drawn any into the sump yet.. although what you put in is on the high side..
I usually put 7 or 8 in , then top it after it is warm. and idling in my driveway ...

if you emptied both the tank and the sump you will be fine though. you might be a tad high at the end and may not need to add any due to residual in the system.

on my SC i pull the fuel pump relay until the oil pressure begins to build from me cranking, not sure what Carrera guys do , if anything, but i'm sure someone will chime in.

Spyerx

Next time you do this:

Drain the oil from sump AND tank. Replace filter.
Add about 7 quarts into the tank
Start car. Let it idle and warm up to normal temp
Add oil until gauge on dash is about 4 o clock pointer, or about 1/2 way on dipstick.

You might be a little high if you added the full 9.5 quarts once it warms up. Dry sump should be ok though. You can always drain a little from the SUMP (don’t do from tank, it dumps.

You really don’ t want the gauge pegged ‘full’ when its warmed up.

Mark Salvetti

Andy, welcome to Rennlist, and congratulations on the new car! We need pictures.

Good advice above, but I think there is a good chance you'll be fine with the 9.5 quarts, you may even be a little low. My SC takes 10 quarts.

It can take some time for the 9.5 quarts you added to the tank to make their way into the sump. I bet if you check the dip stick again a few hours later it would read low.

When the oil heats up, it expands about 10%. Which adds another quart of volume. That's why you have to check the level hot.

Here is a list of tips for new owners:

• Carry a spare DME relay, as they fail and leave you with a no-start. Goes under the drivers seat.
• Oil changes are about 10 quarts. Have a big pan, many of us have left a big pool of oil on the garage floor from our first change. The oil comes out of the tank very fast. Also drain the engine sump. (You've obviously already gotten past this one.)
• Check the oil every 500-1000 miles until you get a handle on how much you use. 911 engines can consume a lot, you need to really watch this if you are used to a modern car that uses almost no oil.
• You need to use an oil that has high zinc and phosphorous anti-wear additives to protect the cam lobes. Many modern oils have cut back on these because they can poison the cats. But we need them. Common choices are Valvoline Racing 20W-50, Brad Penn 20W-50, Mobil 1 15W-50.
• If the front suspension squeaks over bumps or if you push down on the fender, you probably need new front A-arm bushings. Pretty common after almost 40 years.
• Hopefully the Targa top is in good shape. Dan Pechtel of Cars, Inc in NJ does a great job rebuilding them. Also the only source of the Targa top seal at the top of the windshield that fits. The Porsche part does not fit the early cars.
• Never use a synthetic gear oil in that gearbox (you have a 915 gearbox). Kendall 80W-90 and Swepco 201 are common choices. If you have limited slip, you'll need an additive.
• 915 gearboxes can be quirky. Likely won't shift like a modern box. Avoid downshifting to 1st gear while moving, and don't speed shift. The 1-2 upshift should occur over 4,000 rpm. Don't shift too early. Learn to upshift with a slight pause between gears. The shift coupler (accessible through the floor in front of the back seat) is often a source of poor shifting. The plastic bushings sometimes crumble.
• Watch your battery. Consider an AGM to greatly reduce the chances of an acid spill. Rust, rust, rust.
• The 3.2L fuel lines in the engine bay are pretty old, and many have started to leak. Lots of threads on the need to replace these if they are original.
• If it has AC, and it is original, don't expect it to work very well.
• Don't reset the trip odometer while the car is moving. It strips the gear and it will stop working.
• The instrument lights are not fused. You should add one. Easy to do, use the search function here and at Pelican.
• The full headlight current goes through the switch. You need to add headlight relays if you upgrade to higher power bulbs. Good idea to do this anyway.
• The Bentley manual is a good repair manual (
  Bentley Porsche Carrera Service Manual
  Bentley Porsche Carrera Service Manual
  ). Also 101 Projects (
  101 Projects for Your Porsche 911
  101 Projects for Your Porsche 911
  ). I wouldn't bother with the Haynes manual. Next step up would be the factory manuals, but they are a few hundred dollars.

That's a pretty good list to get you started. As you drive it, you'll probably find things that don't seem right. Most are known issues. Post questions.

Hope this helps, good luck!

Mark

theiceman

unless he edited his post after you responded, he did say he emptied both.

Bodydoc

Mark,

Great summary. Reminds me of a few more things. Thank you for everything you contribute to this forum.

Jim

CarreraAG

Thank you! The car is in very nice shape, including the top. Both seats and top were redone about 4 years ago. The car is a high milage car. 170k. But was cared for. Paint is original and VERY nice and I have about $38K worth of service records back to the 90's. It has a new gearbox and clutch, but the engine is original,no leaks. It does give a puff of blue smoke when you start it cold after a few days of sitting but it clears out quick. Leakdown values cold were good and compression was noooot bad, one cylinder was a little off pace, about 16% off of the rest. BUT the car was reasonably priced at 45K. I was looking for something to drive and enjoy, not a low mileage garage queen.

I am looking for a deck lid and tail if you know of one availabile.

Thanks, Andy

Mark Salvetti

Keep an eye on the Pelican Parts classifieds. They do come up for sale now and then. More often just the tail, but sometimes also with the decklid.

Don't discount a duck tail. I think Targas look better with a duck than a tea tray or whale tail.

Mark