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So today I spent most of the day fabricating the Porsche tool 9236, the tool that will hold the front crank pulley so that I can get to the leaking seal. Now that I have the tool I hesitate to use it until I know for certain which way the motor rotates. Searching the googleverse brings up old Rennlist posts. Not being one to take a flyer on something like this, I figured the better way to find out was to fire up our 80 SC. And what I see from the back, which is the front of the motor is that the motor runs clockwise. Seems to me this is exactly opposed to the posts I found on Rennlist, from way back when.
Happy motoring!
Yes looking from back, clockwise. This is very simple to verify; look at the cooling fan and when you look at the blades how they curve, you can easily determine
the correct direction it turn and the engine turn in the same direction.
My humble recommendation, what ever you read on the net; verify, verify. My hat off to all you that post absolutely marvellous how-to instructions, but would
like that you why don't fully know what you do, learn a bit more before adding not so correct instructions. This a very general statement, Rennlist is a home of
knowledge people.
Ice: yup, crankshaft rotation. Took quite a bit of effort to break the pulley nut. The 10.9 bolts in my 9236 replica bent before the bolt broke. Cut them off and replace with 12.9 bolts with nuts all the way to the pulley. 3 foot of leverage on the replica. 3 foot of leverage on the wrench. It took two of us, one on the ground using leg power to break the bolt free. Had to be at least 300 ft/lbs. Man, was I sweating. And we applied a little heat too. I'll post a couple of pics of the before and after replica. The Bentley manual specs the torque for this bolt at 50 ft/lbs. 35 years must have had in impact.
Ice: yup, crankshaft rotation. Took quite a bit of effort to break the pulley nut. The 10.9 bolts in my 9236 replica bent before the bolt broke. Cut them off and replace with 12.9 bolts with nuts all the way to the pulley. 3 foot of leverage on the replica. 3 foot of leverage on the wrench. It took two of us, one on the ground using leg power to break the bolt free. Had to be at least 300 ft/lbs. Man, was I sweating. And we applied a little heat too. I'll post a couple of pics of the before and after replica. The Bentley manual specs the torque for this bolt at 50 ft/lbs. 35 years must have had in impact.
yup . just be aware that the rotor on the distributor spins the opposite way to other cars of the era when playing with that ..
Sounds like you are on your way.
BTW just did caliper bracket bolts on my Audi .. tightened to 196 n/m ... took over 400n/m to get them off and that was after only 5 years . so i certainly feel you pain
Just picked up a new crank pulley bolt, and the rest of the small parts are due Hard to imagine that this didn't sound wrong!
today, 8 days after Pelican shipped them. I can only hope they are the correct parts.
I'm planning on posting a diagram of the tool I made to hold the crank pulley stationary. I'll start a new post for that. It took me 3 prototypes and 1 fail to get it right. Then another set of bolts, 12.9 this time. Maybe it will help someone else down the road.
I had noticed that at some point in it's previous life the fan and crank pulley were trying to occupy the same space. Our 80 SC has at least 1/8" clearance vertically between these so no interference. While I'm in this deep, What should I do to put these in the proper place? I have to believe that at some point the fan housing and fan were removed, but I don't have any proof or receipts. I've looked into removing the shroud but it looks pretty involved. Or should I just let it go until I need to get to the alternator or have the motor out?
Cheers!
fan housing actually isn't too bad... but of course you have to bring the alternator with it and you need hands the size of an elf to get the small inner shroud and wiring off the back of the alternator. But id leave it alone for now ..
Bit bigger issue for you now is that end bearing that is leaking oil.. Better hope that doesnt get worse as i believe that's a case spilt to resolve that. i think that's called the number 8 bearing.
of course a key measurement when you put it back together is the parallelism between the crank pully and fan pulley .
Good points! I have the new seal, and also a collar developed by Tom Amon in Washington that should capture any leakage that gets past the seal. Check out this collar at: mobileworkswest.com. I believe that by design, any oil that gets past the O-ring should be able to find its way back to the crankcase via the weep holes behind the crankshaft seal. I do need to feel the crankshaft to determine if it has significant wear, but at 51K miles I don’t think I’ll find a problem.
Good point about the pulley alignment. If needed, can the fan/alternator assembly be shifted fore/aft if the shroud bolts are loosened?
And BTW, I don’t have small hands so I hope I don’t have to get into the alternator. My Wifey maybe!
Cheers
Good points! I have the new seal, and also a collar developed by Tom Amon in Washington that should capture any leakage that gets past the seal. Check out this collar at: mobileworkswest.com. I believe that by design, any oil that gets past the O-ring should be able to find its way back to the crankcase via the weep holes behind the crankshaft seal. I do need to feel the crankshaft to determine if it has significant wear, but at 51K miles I don’t think I’ll find a problem.
Good point about the pulley alignment. If needed, can the fan/alternator assembly be shifted fore/aft if the shroud bolts are loosened?
And BTW, I don’t have small hands so I hope I don’t have to get into the alternator. My Wifey maybe!
Cheers
Never heard of this but i rebuilt my engine a while ago and is bone dry, Sounds like innovation like this would be huge as that is quite the job.
12-01-2023, 07:04 PM
Which way does it spin?
