Huck

I am looking at a Slant nose cab build off a 1980 Targa chassis. What do you guys think? It has all 86 interior and is an all steel conversion.
It has the original 915 and 3.0L in it.

Huck

Huck

By the way it is going to be used about 2500 miles a year and kept in a garage. How hard they to sell and what about the values? It is priced right I think.

Huck

JonM..

Who cares what other people think? What do you think? That's all that matters.


There are so many 911's out there that they will never be a collectors item.

As for price, normally you should pay less than what a stock car in similiar condition would go for. But it's really a matter of if you want it and how much you are willing to pay.

cobalt

There is an a$$ for every seat. Some have more a$$es available than others.

If the quality of work is consistant to that of a factory car. I think you will find that although it may be harder to sell eventually you will find a buyer.

I had a 79 SC with fully moded engine suspension and turbo body. Nice clean car. It was not easy to sell, but when the right person came along I got my price. I was told by many experts that I should no get more than $15k for it because it was modified. I actually got $21.5. It only took about 6 weeks. Thank you rennlist Classifieds.

If the car makes you happy and the quality of work is up to speed. I would buy it. However when you go to sell it don't expect it to be as easy as a stock Porsche. Selling a moded car for a reasonable price is about on par with selling a clean stock car for a premium.

PS: Have the car thoroughly looked over. You need to check the areas converted to make sure that they did the job properly. Check to make sure bad work wasn't covered up with lots of bondo and a pretty paint job.

Huck

I think I can buy it for $13000. How does this sound? It is seeping oil from a line on the right side of the motor. Very minor leak. How concerned should I be with the head studs and original tensioners at 91K?

Huck

cobalt

I have seen some SC's last 200k without needing engine work. They can be pretty bullet proof. Oil lines can be replaced. If it is the line I think it is it should be about $2-300 to replace it. I would check chain tensioners on any earlier car I buy used. Even the Carrera tensioners can fail. It is always good to do a complete tune up and inspection once you buy the car.

Don't buy any car without having a complete PPI done, especially with 91k on it. Pick a mechanic who has thorough knowledge of 911's and don't think twice about spending $3-400 to have one done correctly. It is money worth spending. It is better to be out $400 then buy a bad Porsche that could cost you thousands to fix. Have your mechanic or the person doing the PPI do a complete leak down and compression check and have them pull the valve covers and check the studs. If they are willing have them pull the chain tensioner covers for a look also. Check thoroughly for rust. Especially around the window seals, light assemblys and battery box. Also see that they check the charging system and current draw. You will need to negotiate the PPI up front and be specific on what you want checked. each person has their own opinion on what needs to be checked and what they consider to be thorough.

If all these things check out you should be set to go.

Good Luck

MIK911

Since you're asking on a hard-core Porsche 911 site, i must say that I would frown upon this car. All the above are true-if it turns you on, and it's mechanically straight, then go for it. But a non-factory slant nose (esp Targa) is usually less than desirable.
Yes, i know Porsche did make some Targa Slant noses(but not in '80), but the Targa shell is less desirable than a coupe (or cab) in general anyway. (please no flames, just my observation/opinion).

I like slant nose 930's (coupes). I was interested in one last year, UNTIL i found out it wasn't factory.

You asked.
Mike
'86 coupe

TurboKH

So many 911s are personalized, in so many ways.. Buying and selling prices are affected, no doubt, by what's been done. But if YOU like it and it's the right car for the money... this has been said already... who cares what other people think? They're all descendants of the same happy family!

Just my humble opinion.

Karl

Huck

TurboKH,

What are the specifics on your car? My biggest concern is the head studs. I am having trouble finding a shop in the area of the car to do a PPI. I am thinking about having myself and the owner who has a lift etc take the valve covers off and just checking. I am mechanically inclined and should just check each stud correct? Usually if they are broken it will be noticeable right?

Huck

Huck

doc18015

I love my slant nose , wide-body GEMBALLA cabrio!! Judging by others that eyeball it at Porsche events, they do too. Definitely a crowd pleaser but more importantly, pleasing to its owner. As far as values, don't let the "stock only" taint your picture. At a recent Barrett-Jackson auction, a 1986 STROSEK 928 went for far more than a stock 928 will ever see, $35,000 ! A flat nose 911 in England recently went off at a super high dollar. Take a look at the hot-rod market.....5 years ago they rarely sold.......today prices are very strong and the cars are desirable. Porsches will always be desirable cars;the specialty tuners like GEMBALLA are here to stay.

TurboKH

You're right.. if a stud is broken, you'll be able to tell when you try to tighten it. A leakdown test is a necessity, too. If you're not familiar with the air cooled Porsche, spending some money at a reputable shop (?) is a great idea, though, even if only to help you find a good car. If you're mechanically inclined, you'll find out once you own one that they're easy to work on.

My latest purchase has an '81 3.0.. it's my 9th 911. Of the 80 cars I've owned, they seem to keep finding me. It's in a 74 ex-targa chassis, now converted to cab. The rear is SC-flared, and the front is slant nose.. totally nonconforming to all the rules of a Porsche purist, which I'm not, so I kinda like it! There's a picture of it in a thread from a few days ago.. see below.. -Karl

jetskied

You can tell when a stud is broken eaisly, the hard part is to predict when one would break. The original tensioner are prone to failure, but it depends how much are you willing to spend on the car. if you are gonna have the car in for a major( I would) then you can solve the tensioner problem. They can install carrera one which will cost you over $500, put new 80 vintage tensioner and last another 90k miles for $350, or have hydrastops put in for $30 + labor . hydrastops prevent total chain drops when the tensioner gives. as far as $13k for the car is fair for a 1980 911 it depends on the quality of the conversion and if you like the car. And yes it probably will be a little harder to resale the car, modifications tend to turn off buyers.

MIK911

Huck,
Hate to keep playing the Devil's advocate here, but i just re-read your original post, and this car you're considering is a "cab built off a Targa chassis". Now i'm no engineer, but this raises red flags in my mind, mainly regarding safety. I'm assuming that factory cabs are built with extra re-inforcement for safety and torsional rigidity. This ex-Targa is now missing the targa roll bar which previously provided both rollover safety and torsional rigidity. I would personally be very weary of such a 'conversion'. I wouldn't touch this car with a ten foot pole.

You also asked: "how hard is it to sell". My opinion: VERY.

Good luck
Mike

raceman77

l say go for it if it checks out.There wasn`t a head stud problem on SC`s,that was the 2.7 and as far as issues with chassis strength the factory Cab was made with the Targa shell-there is no problem there.You`ll have the flex of a Cab,but you`ll have the open sky above to make it all better.Purests? l laugh at you and your tunnelvision.Slantnose Cabs look cool and sexy,l thought everyone knew that....all the hot babes do anyways.

Huck

Just a quick follow-up. I did not buy the car. It ended up selling for $12,600. Thanks for all the info.

Huck