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We have 1983 Euro spec 911 SC with 103,000 miles. It was imported into Florida in the early 90s and has spent most of its life there. It is now with me in Michigan since 2014.
I have the drive train out for some service work. On Tuesday I will send the transaxle to GBOX for a rebuild. Some of the synchro's are a little lazy at times.
I also am going to back date the exhaust with SSI parts from Pelican (Glenn has been very helpful). I was also going to convert it to carbs, but after speaking with Alois Ruf (he is friend's with an old colleague), he convinced me to leave the CIS on it.
The reason for todays post is to ask advice on a oil leak I discovered now that the engine is partially apart. Every time I drive the car it leaves about a teaspoon of oil on the ground after siting for a day. Originally I though it was the rear main seal, or oil cooler seals.
Now it appears to coming from cylinder number 3 at where it meets the engine case. My first inclination is to retorque the head (all the studs appears to be good).
Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions. I have attached a few pictures of the project.
I would be interested in why it was recommended you stay with CIS which when working is good but there are no parts when it goes bad as it was last used on “83 cars
If I see what you see, that’s #6 cylinder, in that case I would replace the thermostat o-ring, and the oil pressure switch, breather hose and breather hose plate gasket. I would also remove the exhaust valve cover gasket on that side and see if a head stud or two fall out. You can try to re-torque everything, but to do that the right way you should loosen and retighten. Just my opinion.
Last edited by Porschelarry; 11-20-2020 at 09:46 PM.
I was initially planning using the PMO carbs. However, after talking at length with Alois Ruf, he told me the car will actually run better with the CIS. Also, he stated that most of there time people revert to carbs instead of the the CIS is because there is a problem with the system and as you stated, parts are not available (although my pressure regulator was rebuilt in 2014).
He told me if my CIS is functioning properly, (which mine is), keep it, save the money, and just make sure to change the fuel filter regularly and add a little Marven Mystery oil to the fuel occasionally.
I was also thinking the the breather hose could be contributing to this. You are right it is cylinder 6. I was looking with the engine upside down.
Yes, I realize to you have to first loosen the nuts to retorque. All my heads studs are intact and the nuts tight. One concern I have is all the stories i hear about these stud's breaking. Mine was one of the last SCs produced. I do not knw if there were any improvements through the cars life cycle to this part.
II will also follow you advise and change the switch and the gasket just it be safe.
I was initially planning using the PMO carbs. However, after talking at length with Alois Ruf, he told me the car will actually run better with the CIS. Also, he stated that most of there time people revert to carbs instead of the the CIS is because there is a problem with the system and as you stated, parts are not available (although my pressure regulator was rebuilt in 2014).
He told me if my CIS is functioning properly, (which mine is), keep it, save the money, and just make sure to change the fuel filter regularly and add a little Marven Mystery oil to the fuel occasionally.
I have an '83 930-10 Euro in my SC and it runs very strong with the CIS. The key, imo, is a solid WUR within spec that controls the AFR. A little fatter AFR is nice too and I have a wideband AFR gauge in the place of the clock...tell's me how the CIS is working at a glance.
The air/fuel ratio gauge is a good idea. I have a couple of other Italian cars with Webers, and you have given the motivation to see if can use one on these, cause I just think they are running a little to rich based on the smell at times.
At the risk of sounding uninformed, what does the acronym WUR stand for (I live a sheltered life
The air/fuel ratio gauge is a good idea. I have a couple of other Italian cars with Webers, and you have given the motivation to see if can use one on these, cause I just think they are running a little to rich based on the smell at times.
At the risk of sounding uninformed, what does the acronym WUR stand for (I live a sheltered life
The WUR on 930-10 Euro's...your car, controls the fuel enrichment from idle thru wot. The 930-16 US models use a lambda/control unit for that function.
An out of spec WUR on our cars can lead to lean/rich at the wrong times and is actually hard to tell and the normal idle AFR tailpipe shop check doesn't really indicate any issues unless they are doing a thru the rpm run.
That's a lot of oil so I suspect a leak from above near the sending unit topside behind the CIS......
Here is the latest. I reached out Alois Ruf for clarity on the studs, as I have heard different opinions, which is normal I guess.
His shop confirmed that as stated here on the forum, the lower studs are Dilivar. They recommended to replace them with steel studs, and the oil leak could be coming from the o ring on the case fastener next to cylinder #6, and I should replace those while replacing the studs.
They also said a good upgrade is the 993 turbo Dilivar studs. This what they use. They confirmed the tightening process is step 1: 10Nm, step 2 :32Nm
My question to the forum for today is, I am think of going with the kit that Pelican has for 500$ with steel studs.
I already have over 6K in other parts for the car in my project list, so I would like to avoid the extra cost of the 993 turbo stud, as they are twice as much.
11-20-2020 | 04:15 PM
Euro 911 SC
