ADDvanced

Just got the transmission rebuilt from Accumoto Motorsport, thanks guys!

Short episode; I go over 901/915 basic layout, and through some of the internals and upgrades on my magnesium cased 915, which has the later upgrades but is ~30lb lighter than the aluminum versions! Also splurged on a one piece bearing retainer to help stiffen the case.

ADDvanced

myflat6

Cool video. Always fun to see the internals of these things

Grapeape

OP, I just found your vids which are very informative and honest videos! I like the fact that you did not edit out that it took you 4 days to separate the alternator from the fan, lol. I tell my wife it's a good thing I do not try to make a living in auto restoration because we'd be living on government subsidies. Keep the vids coming, keep them honest, and I look forward to seeing your end goal.

ADDvanced

haha, thanks! That fan was a total beast to get off. Sometimes things go smoothly, other times well... yeah. Cluster F.

Anyway, new vid! This is the teardown of my CIS fuel injection system. I really had no idea what anything was on this thing when I tore it down, but after taking it apart and reading more about it I'm becoming more familiar with it. This is the tear down, and then modification of the intake runners to remove superfluous castings, which improves appearance and technically removes a bit of weight. I also remove the fuel injector sleeves as I didn't think they would survive powdercoating temperatures.

myflat6

I like your videos and documentation added to the description. I am trying to do some videos myself and am finding it more challenging than it looks!

ADDvanced

Small, super short, quick update: Removing the Engine Baffles for Plating:

Vane

Are you aware that some plating methods will cause hydrogen embrittlement?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement

Be careful here, verify with the plater this, otherwise your springs and washers are "junk" after plaiting!

ADDvanced

I was not. Guess I'll add a throttle return spring to my list!

ADDvanced

Alright, longest video ever! Tackled a ton of subjects in this one. Again, any feedback is appreciated, and if you see me do something wrong, let me know!

Vane

If you have a new seal ring (you call it crush washer) Teflon tape is not required. Copper ones can be annealed, Al has to be replaced.
If there is no leak from crankshaft rear seal, leave it.
I would check the clutch friction plate, mark the pressure plate location so it goes back where it was.
You don't need clutch plate alignment tool, use suitable socket and masking tape and make a "tool".
If the clutch plate has rubber center, replace it.
If you open the clutch and the pilot bearing is a bushing, a little moly grease here. A little!
If the throw out bearing is not rattling, no need to replace. You can carefully pry the seal out and re-lube it.

Buy a torque wrench! Recommend to fasten everything with correct torque!
(People are moaning and buying special/expensive valve covers when they don't use torq. wrench)
Do you have the Porsche Spec book? The original Porsche, size about a pack of cigarettes
https://sierramadrecollection.com/Ac...74-p22560.html
You probably get it cheaper directly from your local Porsche dealer.

Good videos, thanks for those.
Someone has been inside the engine and he has loved RTV. Hateful stuff. Used it a lot and on O-rings!!!

Vane

Forgot to ask what the ring was you added in last video?

ADDvanced

I have a small 1/4 torque wrench but it fell apart when adjusting it so now I need to reassemble and recalibrate somehow, pretty annoyed w it but yeah I'll do that for valve covers and stuff. For things like the breather seal... meh. I have okay feel w my hands.

Thank you for the advice on the clutch, I'll dig into that at some point, super helpful!

Lol, yeah, they goobered RTV EVERYWHERE. I have over an hour trying to clean all it off the rocker shaft areas but it's still everywhere. Haven't found a great way to remove it yet.

#8 Nose Bearing Seal Ring is from Tom Amon, link is in description of video, but here's another link:
https://www.mobileworkswest.com/for-sale-911/

ADDvanced

Thanks for the advice, tore into the clutch and replaced the flywheel seal! Would appreciate any advice on the clutch... go into it in more detail to try to decide to reuse it or not.

You Tube

Would appreciate any advice!

Vane

Nice plating. Recommend that you check the wave-washers so that they are not brittle. Do a little bending on all springy parts.

You did mark the clutch pressure plate and starter gear to flywheel?

You say that the max clutch plate is 8.1, min is 6,1 and you measure 7,5. Your not halfway, I would use it. Check that the springs are OK. Didn’t see in video
any material transfer in fw and pp surfaces, rusty but smooth.

Using the steel p-plate make car easier to drive, I would not change it to Al.

Definitely grease the throwout bearing or replace.

Check the pilot bearing, it looked to be a roller bearing. If visible OK and the main shaft that goes in look OK, just a tab of high temp grease. No need to replace it. I’ve been using grease with moly.

Check the starter as it’s loose. A little TLC and grease would be good. Again if the commutator (the part where the brushes slide) look even, resist your desire to polish with emery paper.