Budget 911 Engine Refresh Adventure, Cant Afford Pros, DIVE IN
#46
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Thanks Vane!
Ok I’m stumped. How do I get this rocker shaft out to install RSR seals
![](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200806/98ecdb378e329a20d56557cf11d1e16a.jpg)
I can't push it towards the rear of the engine because of the timing cover.
I can't push it forwards because of the timing cover.
What do?
Ok I’m stumped. How do I get this rocker shaft out to install RSR seals
![](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200806/98ecdb378e329a20d56557cf11d1e16a.jpg)
I can't push it towards the rear of the engine because of the timing cover.
I can't push it forwards because of the timing cover.
What do?
#47
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It’s some time I did my engine and the heads came off. Isn’t there room for the shaft if you move it towards the flywheel? If I remember correctly, the rocker shaft cam move in both directions.
Perhaps I don’t understand your question?
Perhaps I don’t understand your question?
#48
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Figured it out, used a socket and a screwdriver to pry it towards the center of the VC.
Speaking of which....Video Update #14. This is BY FAR the longest video I've ever done. It's 30 minutes long, and it covers my adventures in rocker shafts and installing RSR seals. This was a pretty frustrating experience mainly due to how much silicone was jammed into every rocker bore of the engine, and the tedious amount of time spent picking it off with a right angle pick. I tried fast forwarding that pretty quickly, but included a few shots of it just to show you how gross it was.
The first three rockers were brutal, it took a while to find a combination of extensions and sockets taht worked, and I needed to cutup an 8mm allen key, then a socket got stuck in the rocker, and the brake fumes cooked my brain so I was trying to take tension off the rockers instead of rotating the engine/cams. Duhhhhhh. Once I did those first three, things went much more smoothly, apart from discovering all the mangled rocker bolts and incorrectly installed rocker arms.
Let me know if this is too much detail; this video was a b*tch to edit since there was just so much content in it. I try to be a good mix of getting straight to the point and showing people who are less familiar with these engines that they could do this themselves. Please let me know if I did anything else stupid. :P
Speaking of which....Video Update #14. This is BY FAR the longest video I've ever done. It's 30 minutes long, and it covers my adventures in rocker shafts and installing RSR seals. This was a pretty frustrating experience mainly due to how much silicone was jammed into every rocker bore of the engine, and the tedious amount of time spent picking it off with a right angle pick. I tried fast forwarding that pretty quickly, but included a few shots of it just to show you how gross it was.
The first three rockers were brutal, it took a while to find a combination of extensions and sockets taht worked, and I needed to cutup an 8mm allen key, then a socket got stuck in the rocker, and the brake fumes cooked my brain so I was trying to take tension off the rockers instead of rotating the engine/cams. Duhhhhhh. Once I did those first three, things went much more smoothly, apart from discovering all the mangled rocker bolts and incorrectly installed rocker arms.
Let me know if this is too much detail; this video was a b*tch to edit since there was just so much content in it. I try to be a good mix of getting straight to the point and showing people who are less familiar with these engines that they could do this themselves. Please let me know if I did anything else stupid. :P
#49
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Well, the high of finishignt he RSR seals was short lived. I pulled the exhaust to start cleaning up the oil return tubes, and found that a few of my exhaust studs ahve been replaced... like... drilled out with inserts replaced. The problem is, the inserts are not flush with the mating surface for the exhaust manifold/header. Someone had doubled up exhaust gaskets on just ONE cylinder. Any ideas? Is there a way to screw the inserts into the head to make them flush? Or special bigger gaskets? Really looking for ideas.
#50
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Please post a photo of the inserts, how they look.
Couldn’t you grind them flush with Dremel?
Remember to use copper plated nuts and some Cu-paste when installing headers. Use Cu-paste in all screws in exhaust system. But this you knew.
Couldn’t you grind them flush with Dremel?
Remember to use copper plated nuts and some Cu-paste when installing headers. Use Cu-paste in all screws in exhaust system. But this you knew.
#51
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Speaking of the exhaust, ran into another snag. I had 'thick flange' shortie headers.... and I got a deal on thin flange B&B exhaust. I figure going from thick to thin would be fine, as the studs would be long enough. Yeah, they are, the problem is the THREADS aren't long enough. I could tighten all the exhaust nuts on, and it would bottom out on the threads and still leave a ~5mm gap between the flange of the exhaust and the nut.
So.... I know this is pretty hack, but.... I really, really, REALLY don't want to try to swap exhaust studs, as I'm deathly afraid of snapping one and dealing with all super rad adventures that will follow.... so could I just run SPACERS, under each exhaust nut, to press on the flange of the exhaust? I'm seriously just thinking about getting osme long thicker appropriate aluminum spacers, cutting them to size, and throwing them on under the exhaust nuts. Bad idea? Let me know.
Also, one of my case bolts was wet on the top of the case. I thought about loosening it, pulling it out enough to slide the conical washer over and replace the O ring w some fresh RTV, but there's no way that can happen. the heads prevent me from removing the bolt. I can't bend it out of the way either. And the metal conical washer below the bolt head? It's trapped by a small pocket in the jug, so it can't move outwards much at all, and the ID of that washer is right up against the OD of the bolt, so there's no slop. What should I do? Just clean it w brake clean, and squirt some RTV on it and hope and pray?
So.... I know this is pretty hack, but.... I really, really, REALLY don't want to try to swap exhaust studs, as I'm deathly afraid of snapping one and dealing with all super rad adventures that will follow.... so could I just run SPACERS, under each exhaust nut, to press on the flange of the exhaust? I'm seriously just thinking about getting osme long thicker appropriate aluminum spacers, cutting them to size, and throwing them on under the exhaust nuts. Bad idea? Let me know.
Also, one of my case bolts was wet on the top of the case. I thought about loosening it, pulling it out enough to slide the conical washer over and replace the O ring w some fresh RTV, but there's no way that can happen. the heads prevent me from removing the bolt. I can't bend it out of the way either. And the metal conical washer below the bolt head? It's trapped by a small pocket in the jug, so it can't move outwards much at all, and the ID of that washer is right up against the OD of the bolt, so there's no slop. What should I do? Just clean it w brake clean, and squirt some RTV on it and hope and pray?
#52
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Well... I taped off the rest of the engine, and went to down w a dremel tool to flatten the 'flanges' of the inserts. Now the exhaust gasket sits flush with the rest of the mating surface. Also going to cut spacers for my nuts. SPACE MY NUTS!
#53
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Update!
Block party episode:
I go over how to:
- Level & install Timing Chain Covers
- Carrera Tensioners
- Protect Zinc Plating
- Install an Oil Sump Plate
- Remove the headers
- Grind down an exhaust insert or two
- Assemble/Install the Throttle Plate
- Install the Crank Pulley & Engine Hook
- Modify/Install the Cylinder Baffles for Improved Cooling & more!
Is what I did to the exhaust studs hack? Yes. Is it less hack than before? Yes.
Also one set of my baffles is looser than the others, tried bending the spring clip but it didn't help much. Might add a shim on top of the cylinder to give it more strength.
Block party episode:
- Level & install Timing Chain Covers
- Carrera Tensioners
- Protect Zinc Plating
- Install an Oil Sump Plate
- Remove the headers
- Grind down an exhaust insert or two
- Assemble/Install the Throttle Plate
- Install the Crank Pulley & Engine Hook
- Modify/Install the Cylinder Baffles for Improved Cooling & more!
Is what I did to the exhaust studs hack? Yes. Is it less hack than before? Yes.
Also one set of my baffles is looser than the others, tried bending the spring clip but it didn't help much. Might add a shim on top of the cylinder to give it more strength.
#55
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#56
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Installed a PerTronix Electronic Ignition module, no more points!
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Pretty easy, only hiccup was my distributor looked a bit different for grommet than shown in the manual; seems like other distributors have a slot, mine had a square hole for the pass thru.
#57
Team Owner
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yeah i was already laughing when you said no brute force,,, soon the hammer came out .. lol ... actually mine turned a little putting it in so i found it helpful offsetting it a little so when it turned in it lined up fine... good project for any points 911 though.
#58
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Yeah, that's what I tried to do... idk why it was so hard to get in?! Seems weird to have to use a hammer on this... but... whatever. Worked!
Onto the flywheel, bought some cool parts
. Will have an update in a day or two.
Onto the flywheel, bought some cool parts
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#60
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you didnt pull the heads for a top end on this engine ?? its been a while so i dont remember..
haven't got time to watch the video , but i hope you went with the steel collapsibles not the aluminum..
haven't got time to watch the video , but i hope you went with the steel collapsibles not the aluminum..