Vane

Sorry, don’t know any good source for alternator parts over there. I’m in Finland.

oldskewel

At 5:08 in the pressure washing video, is that a crack in the frame near the right shock mount? Tough to tell in the video, but I know those areas are subjected to a lot of stress.

ADDvanced

No, it's just a change in surface, there is an identical shape on the other side. You freaked me out for a second.

oldskewel

Good to hear that it's not a crack. Now that you have easy access in there, it a good opportunity to do a careful inspection of the frame / structure.

ADDvanced

Car is extremely free of corrosion, chassis is in great shape.

ADDvanced

Super small/quick update; polished my upper valve covers:


In other news, parts are rolling in, trans is being rebuilt, being drilling a lot of holes and cleaning a lot of parts to prep for powdercoating. Things are happening, just slowly.

ADDvanced

Another update: Removed my fan, and OMFG I cannot believe how hard it was to remove the fan from the alternator. If you feel like laughing at someone flail around in failure over and over, please watch my video.


FINALLY got it off in the end, and... idk... I might have even ****ed up the alternator removing it. It makes a slight interference noise when I spin it over, but that could also be yet another seed (see video for seed explanation).

Anyway, once it was off I polished my super awesome 5 blade fan that everyone hates, to prep it for powdercoating. Cannot wait. It's going to look ridiculous.

theiceman

its not about hate ... the conversion to the 11 blade fan was done to assist in cooling. its considered a worthwhile update to an S with the magnesium engine case.
also about the polishing. i didn't get a chance to look at the vids yet but what is your plan now that you have polished it ? i believe there was a coating on it to prevent the aluminum from corroding that you have polished off. Do you have plan to re-coat it ?

i have heard of a product called sharkhide which is supposed to be for this purpose but i cold not find it in Canada so resisted playing with the valve covers.

https://www.ordersharkhide.com/shop/...Path=0&sort=#4

I just use regular maintenance on my polished fan and it is okay.

i did not want to powder coat the fan because it is difficult to powder coat and i thought it would eventually chip off with road grime and look like crap.

ADDvanced

If you search pelican, you will find that people that 'upgraded' to the 11 blade fan didn't really notice much of a difference unless it was a track car. I have owned this car for 7 years, never overheated, even on 90+ degree days. I have a trombone oil cooler in the front fender tho, so that helps a lot.

Yeah, the mirror shine will not last, hence why I'm going to try to powdercoat this ASAP.

Bford100

My 1986 rebuild

Vane

Now when you have the fan surrounding loose, check that there are no cracks!
You should consider replacing alt bearings & slipring carbons. If there is no major
grooves in sliprings , resist your temptation to polish it.
Alternator can be tricky to take apart, you migh have to unsolder some wires,
proceed carefully.

Spyerx

What temps does the car run at based on the dash gauge?
keep in mind the fan on a 911 blows through the cylinders, some air is diverted to the engine mounted cooler. its good you have at least the trombone cooler and secondary thermostat.
While oil temps are related to cylinder head temps, the more airflow the better on these. I wouldn't reuse that fan. Also assume your car doesn't the thermo reactor exhaust?
If you have to get your case machined that alone is a $3k job to get a mag case all straight and line bored and perfect. There are certain parts of the DIY prices you just can't do w/o sublet labor, case prep is one of them.

Vane

Respectfully, I’m a strong believer in if it ain’t broken, don’t fix it.
If you didn’t notice any temperature problems should be no reason to change the fan. They had pretty sharp pencils in Zuffenhausen when they designed 911. One reason for 5 to 11 blade can also be the increased output of bigger engines but there was no room to increase cooling fin area in heads. I believe the outside dimensions of heads remained same.

Now when you got the blade loose, it’s easy to
change it later if you measure high oil temp.
Too cold engine is not good either.

Didn’t you plan to install headers?

ADDvanced

BFord, wow, that engine looks incredible. Great job!

Vane: No cracks, looked closely! Yeah, I might just take it somewhere to get it serviced. New brushes and slip ring seem like a good idea; it's making a weird 'shck' noise when I spin it now. MIght have dislodged a seed inside the alternator, not sure.

Spyerx: No, it had shortie headers that mated up with the factory heat exchangers. Pretty weird actually, I've never heard of such a thing but ... well... they were on my car. I'm replacing htem with B&B headers. Also, no case work. I got decent leakdown #s and no broken head studs, so I'm just going to replace senders/gaskets/install RSR rocker o rings, adjust valves, basically just a massive tuneup. Going through the CIS system right now. Highest temp I've seen was 210, and that was on a 97 degree day on the highway. Generally it runs right around 190-200 or so. I'm keeping the fan for now, this isn't a track car and it's easy to change later, and my budget is already stretched super thin as is.

ADDvanced

Super quick vid on creating an RSR engine bar from a standard engine bar. Lost a little weight, looks cooler, cost : FREE! Free mods = BEST mods

You Tube

Sent everything off to the powdercoater/plater, so will be focusing on actual engine wrenching from this point forward. LMK if you have any feedback, I feel like the video format is pretty solid at this point.