Looking at an 87. PPI shop suggested about $10,000 in repairs. Not opposed to buying a car that needs some work, especially since it'll give me an opportunity to make some major performance upgrades with the engine out. But obviously want to avoid an engine that'll keep having recurring problems even after I invest 10 grand.

Leakdown and compression

• #1 - 134.5 psi (22% Leak)
• #2 - 131.9 psi (9% Leak)
• #3 - 133.2 psi (5% Leak)
• #4 - 131.7 psi (10% Leak)
• #5 - 132.5 psi (14% Leak)
• #6 - 134.1 psi (6% Leak)

Oil leaks:

• 1. Crankshaft Seal (Both Moderate) - Recommendation: Replace both crankshaft seals with engine removed.
• 2. Oil Return Tubes (Moderate) - Recommendation: Replace all oil return tubes with engine removed.
• 3. Camshaft + Housing (Moderate) - Recommendation: Reseal with head reconditioning.

 

I've never done serious engine work on my '85, but from other cars ...

The oil return tubes is a simple, common problem. Split tubes allow it to be pretty easily fixed without removing the engine. So if that is the main source of leaking, consider it can be fixed without major disassembly.

The compression numbers are all very close. Kind of odd to see results given in tenths of a psi. Definitely not truly accurate to warrant that precision. So it makes me wonder. You'd definitely get different numbers if re-doing the test, as well as variation on just how many cranks you let it run for, or how warm things are, etc. Last compression test on my '85 gave about 155 psi all around. The low 130's you're getting may be due to something different in the test - throttle not fully open?

Also, on the leakdown, there is some variation there, but I'm curious how you could have bad and varying leakdown, yet have such consistent compression numbers. Leakdown percentage is not really a solid number - i.e., 22% does not mean 22% of anything. It's just a number on the gauge that relates to the flow rate through the cylinder. Did the shop have any ideas on the cause of the variation?

 

How many miles on engine?
have heads top end bend done?
when was last valve adjustment?
how often is csr driven now?
where was it leaking on leak down? (Crankcase our exhaust?)

the answer here is it depends.

 

1. about 120k
2. No
3. Not sure
4. on average, only 1,200 miles a year since 2007.
5.Crankcase

 

Did tech say what sort of condition the plugs were in?

Car needs to be driven more! Likely needs a top end at this point. If it were mine, and you like the car otherwise/mechanical condition, I'd budget for the top end. Just know. its a bit of a slippery slope. At those miles highly likely the bottom end is OK... but who knows what else they'll find. if motor has never been out, you'll not find too many surprises, likely. if clutch is original that will need to be replaced, for example, and the fuel lines need to be reconditioned or replaced, all the rubber/seals you can get at (they are 35yrs old now), there is a lot to do while engine is out beyond just a top end. If the car is a keeper, you want to do it. Unfortunately 2 of those oil leaks (the crank seal and cam housings/seals) can't really be done without the engine out. The tubes are easy. That said, you'd want to clean up and verify the leaks, it could be covers or other areas too... the fan blows oil all over the place.

You'd want to do a valve adjustment, plugs/general tune up, and go hammer on the car, drive it, hard. If you can deal with the leaks/seeps, you can probably enjoy it for a while. Keep an eye on oil consumption. One think you will want to do is while valves covers are off put a wrench on all the head studs, just 10-15lbs torque, if any spin, you have a more urgent need for the top end.

You can see what I did on my old 89 when I needed a clutch. It didn't need a top end yet. When I bought it at 85k miles the compression was 180 across all and leak was between 2-8%, #1 was highest. Top end as far as I could tell had never been done.

https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...turns-bad.html

 

Super helpful.


You think the work you mentioned could be done for around $8,000 to $10,000?

My local indy is very good and said around 10. Just want to make sure it won't turn into 15-20.

 

Plugs need to be replaced but condition looks OK. Like I said I'd just do a valve adjust, tune up, and drive the car a while, that way you can learn what it really needs. Address any easier leaks, clean it up, and then note where leaking.

10k for a top end? yeah. It could get a bit more if you are doing to do the clutch, fuel lines, and any other 'while you're in there' stuff. This is assuming you aren't modding the car... :-) otherwise just the machine work and parts can get close to that! lol

depending on your location and labor rate roughly:
engine in and out about 12 hours
Labor on the block/disassembly/assembly about 16 hours
if you do the trans add about 4 hours
heads sublet work about 1k
parts probably 1-2k in various 'bits'
clutch will add about 1500 in parts and minimal labor and if yours is original you NEED to do it, see my thread... you don't want that rubber center thing in there
Fuel lines about 600

Thats rough... if you want to replace rings, and hone the block, add a bit more... if the bottom end is coming apart and it needs pistons/cylindars double the price. If cams are pitted add 1k... if distributor needs refurbishing about 1k.

You get it :-)

 

top end is really a long-term maintenance item

but.. what major performance upgrades with the 3.2L engine are you thinking of? Only the exhaust is "low" cost and it does not require that the engine come out.

 

and BTW - the fuel line that always leaks on the 3.2L cars needs to be replaced before it burns the car down to the ground

which reminds me: How good are the old maint. records? If complete a bonus, if not reduce your offer

 

Complete since 2007. Incomplete previously.

Price is good, assuming only about 8-10k of work.

 

They always need more work than you think :-)

 

maybe you can call the n-1 th PO and ask about the car?

 

Thanks everyone for the help. I closed the deal with the seller for $38,000 and plan to put about 10-12 grand into making the engine just right.

 

can I suggest the brakes and suspension should be checked out first?

e.g. the rubber brake hoses should be replaced every 15-20 years - no matter what mileage

the tires every 6 years - no matter what mileage

Enjoy your new car!

 

Agreed. Suspension needs new ball joints. I think rotors and brakes are ok though.