miatan

This topic has probably been talked about before but I made a search and couldn't find anything.

So to the point! I'm a huge fan of the pre -73 look of the 911, now I'm wondering if there is any sense in making a post -73 car look like a pre -73 car, ie longnose, vents below head lights small bumpers and so on. Does anybody produce a "kit" for making a 80s car look like a pre -73? Un altered early 911s are sort of hard to come by where I live (sweden) so this might be an option if possible (a lot of the early cars have been updated to look like 80s' cars around here). any info would be greatly appreciated.

/Oscar

Edit: Sorry to clarify that would be pre -74, pre impact bumpers.

JackOlsen

You mean pre-1974.

See this link, for starters.

si Banker

I remember hearing of a company in England, Auto Farm, (I think.), that marketed a conversion kit . It included a hood, front fenders, front and rear bumpers, and duck tail. It made a 1978-1988 resemble a pre 1974 911. It was marketed to those who wanted a 1973 carrara "look" . I was thinking of building a clone and I thought it would be easier and cheaper to make a 1984 body look like a 1973 than up grade brakes, suspension, trans, and engine of a 1973. Also you did not have to worry about rear flairs. Granted the car would be heavier.

Tim K

One problem that I had that nobody on this pelican link (or anyone else I know of) seemed to encounter was slight (but unavoidable) interference between the long hood and the original latch panel (The plan was always to use the exterior rubber latches anyway). The interference occured between the protrusion (on the hood) for mounting the hood latch and the corner of the original latch panel. A few minutes with a cutoff wheel, no more protrusion. Since I have not heard of anyone else having this problem, I'll chalk it up to exception. However, a conversion that did not necissaraly require welding (to patch the gaping hole), may cause someone grief.

Anyone else experience this?

A few highlights regarding this conversion that require metal addition/removal:

-notching or removal of front bumper isolator brackets. (may also notch fender) for clearance
-Removal of Rear bumper isolator brackets
-Removal of Rear Reflector panel sheet metal.
-Welding of SC (or accurate RS flares) if applicable (may be bonded etc.)
-Did I miss anything?

Tim

JackOlsen

Only a picture of the finished project.

Tim K

It may be a while as I am in school for the next two years and there is much to do still. I'll try an get my hands on a scanner and post some of the pics I've taken for documentation so far.

Not to get too far off topic, but one thing you could help with is the offset / backspacing you used for BB1. (10" rears and 8/9 fronts?) I'm using SC flares as I am starting with an SC anyway. I am going to get custom wheels made and I could use some help with the dimensions.

Tim

JackOlsen

My 8-inch and 10-inch wheels had 6 inches of backspacing from the outside edge of the rim to the flat face where the hub meets the lug bolts.



Here's a picture of the 8's and 10's:



And here are the backspacing measurements:





On the 9-inch set I had made, I had them split the difference, so that the backspacing was 5.5 inches.

Tim K

Many thanks Jack. I appreciate it.

Tim

markwemple

Those are beautiful wheels, Jack, and the car isn't half bad either

markwemple

Those are beautiful wheels, Jack, and the car isn't half bad either

JackOlsen

Thanks. Unfortunately, the car went into the wall at Laguna Seca, and will never roll again.

But the drivetrain and brakes went into a 72 tub, with new suspension and even wider 2-piece wheels. It's a less subtle look, now, but it's faster (and it's still pre-74).