Johan928

Hi all,

I will be looking at a 1976 911 S Targa w/ ~40k miles on the odometer. The miles appear to be document and original, and the car has been a daily driver the last few years.

From the pictures the car looks clean with some carpet wear as the only negative.

We have a '90 944S2 and 88' 928S4 and would like to add a 911 to the stable. I've been our mechanic for these cars thanks to the rennlist, and have a good idea of what to look for when considering the purchase of a 944 or a 928, but would appreciate any tips specific to the 1976 911 S model.

Thanks,
John

HarryD

Check Wade Gutherie's FAQ (I think there is a copy on the Rennlist MAin Site) and be sure to get a good PPI (Pelican Parts has a nice PPI Checklist in their Tech articles). These cars have issues that, once resolved , make for a great car but a He!! hole if you have to pay to fix.

exc911ence

You're about to be bombarded with anti-2.7L rheteric from non-owners so hold on to your seat. Ignore them. These cars used to be unreliable... 20+ years ago. I think I can safely say that all of thier idiocyncracies have been ironed out now that it's 2004. My 75 911S has been perfectly trouble-free since I bought it (and I do use it every day, rain or shine) and the engine is a dream. It's been upgraded with the required time-certs, Carrera chain tensioners, etc, plus a set of SSI exchangers. If this car you're looking at has the awful thermal reactor exhaust system, rip it off and throw it away. Otherwise, it's golden. Remember that the best 911 of all time, the 73 Carrera RS, was equipped with the "dreaded" 2.7L engine and these cars are revered by the Porsche elite!

Anyway...

Yes, get a PPI done by a mechanic that you trust, buy the car and enjoy it for what it is: the last of the lighter-weight 911s with the awe-inspiring 2.7L RS-esque engine!

markwemple

I have a '76 targa and love it!

BartB

If the s designation is important to you or if the car is priced at a premium becuase it is an "s", you want to check the chassis numbers make sure that it really is an "s". There are a lot of cars out there that are marketed as "s" cars b/c they have been re-badged or upgraded with "s" cosmetics but weren't really an "s" out of the factory.

BTW - the 2.7s engine rocks if it is properly sorted out (thermal reactors, head studs)

MAS

The regular cars were all "S" between 74-77 in the US and Canada.


-MAS

markwemple

NOt exactly on the money. In '74 you could have a standard 911 (145bhp), an S or a carrera.

exc911ence

True, by 75 though, the S was the bottom of the barrel... how sad.

MAS

"NOt exactly on the money. In '74 you could have a standard 911 (145bhp), an S or a carrera."

OK, yes... sorry. I should have typed 75-77. Anyway, the car in question is a 76 "S", which makes it the regular model for North America.

-MAS

jlkline

I suggest folowing Harry D's advice, and do some archive checking on the 2.7. Its a great motor when it is running well, but there were several issues that are not cheap to fix once the car gets to around 60kmiles, and should be factored into your offer.

They also tend to leak more than the other 911 engines, which isn't necessarily harmfiul to the motor, but is just frustrating and embarrasing if the oil mates with the heat exchangers.

Tim-911S

I have no worries with mine. There are some good threads here and on Pelican if you search mid-year reliabilty or some thing along those lines. I think you will find that if the proper upgrades were done, the mid-years are every bit as good as the rest. Plus relatively cheap.

jlkline

If the miles are original, I would guess that the motor has not yet been into. If it has had engine work / upgrades done, check out the receipts and the shop that did the work.

Some things I would have checked during a PPI with VERY knowledgable p- mechanic....

1. Inspection of battey comparment for acid leaks.. would require significant $ to fix ( front pan /battery tray replacement)

2. I would highly recommend going beyond the standard PPI compression testing, and pay a little more have the valve covers removed to check the head studs and have the heads retorqued. Any stud nuts found rolling around in the covers upon removal would indicate early symptoms of the classic 2.7 stud pulling problem.

If any studs can't be torqued (spin freely) or are very loose, you should factor in about $3- 4K for a top end down the road into your offer.

3. Check for timing chain for rattle just above idle. If yes, the chain tensioners should be replaced before driving the car, unless the tensioners have been upgraded with hydrostops,which limit collapse of the tensioner shaft. (tensioners would still need replacing and/or upgraded to pressure fed)

4. Check the airbox for a pop off valve. This is an aftermarket upgrade that minimizes the risk of cracking the air box if backfires occur.

5. Severe Targa leaks. Fairly Typical for Targa's (any year) to leak... its just a matter of degree. If the door pockets look like they have been warped ohave water stains, that's a good indication. Very difficult to resolve completely, but it can usually be improved. (I'd still take a Targa over a cab or coupe)

7. Body work of course. I learned a trick that can quickly determine if body / paint work has been done: rob your fingers along the underside lip of the fenders. Porsche put rock chip protection stipling in these locations in addition to putting this on the rocker panels. If smooth, its been painted / repaired and warrants a closer look. If rough, you can be fairly certain that its original, or repaired by a very good shop that understands the nuances of the 911.

Well, that's my $.02. I hope I don't get flamed too bad from the 2.7 guys, but I've owned 2 of 'em and I know of what I speak.

DGaunt

I'd add a leakdown test to the list for sure. Also it is said that '76 cars are all-galvanized, but i have read that some early production '76s were not as the non-galvanized parts were used up. I think there is a serial number cut-off, but I don't know what it is. Maybe someone can clarify this.

Dave Gaunt
'76 911S Peru Red Sunroof Coupe

hotshoe911

You failed to mention the price being asked, that will determine how much you would want to invest in upgrades.

My '76 Targa has had a topend done, timecerts and dilavar studs and is about to get new pressure fed tensioners. With over 207,000 on the clock, I'd have to say i got my money's worth out of it, having paid $6500 for it 14 years ago.

MAS

"They [2.7s] also tend to leak more than the other 911 engines..."

According to my Porsche mechanic... ALL 911 engines leak. He had several 911's in his shop last week (including a turbo)... and all of the engines looked leaky. The worst was an 85 3.2.

This is the first I've heard (or read) that 2.7s leak more than the others.

For the record, my 2.7 leaks a bit... but my friends 2.7 hardly leaks at all.

-MAS