Polishing 88 Carerra
#1
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Thread Starter
Polishing 88 Carerra
I have a 1988 Carerra. The car has been sitting inside for the last 6-7 years, rarely driven until the last few months. I had it serviced last week and had all mechanicals addressed, all good to go now! Drives great... onto the appearance side of things. The paint has some scratches in the paint. I have polished some cars before, but they have had a clear coat, which from reading on here, I have surmised there is no clear on an 88 in Guards Red.
So my question: With no clear, what do I need to do differently as I try and take out some of the imperfections? I don’t think the paint has been polished very many times, so I’m not very concerned about the thickness of the paint (something I’ve read on a few posts).
Also, any suggestions for a place that does interiors and convertible tops in the Central Valley of California (Fresno area) or Central Coast area (San Luis Obispo)? The top needs to be replaced, and possible the carpets on the interior. Thanks in advance,
So my question: With no clear, what do I need to do differently as I try and take out some of the imperfections? I don’t think the paint has been polished very many times, so I’m not very concerned about the thickness of the paint (something I’ve read on a few posts).
Also, any suggestions for a place that does interiors and convertible tops in the Central Valley of California (Fresno area) or Central Coast area (San Luis Obispo)? The top needs to be replaced, and possible the carpets on the interior. Thanks in advance,
#2
Rennlist Member
In my experience Similar approach to working with clear
start mild and see how it responds and then work up to what you need then bring it back.
These seem to respond better to hand rubbed carnauba wax in my opinion.
So clay, light polish on soft pad, wax
if you have scratches or deeper swirls you can go more aggressive on the compound.
Use blue tape. There is a lot of trim on these cars!
start mild and see how it responds and then work up to what you need then bring it back.
These seem to respond better to hand rubbed carnauba wax in my opinion.
So clay, light polish on soft pad, wax
if you have scratches or deeper swirls you can go more aggressive on the compound.
Use blue tape. There is a lot of trim on these cars!
The following users liked this post:
Gmanscott (07-12-2019)
#3
Contervible / interior
In San Luis Obispo
Mitchs Stitches
1331 Walker Street
805.546.9108
Just put a new top on my 65 356. He (and his son) have been in business over forty years. He does most of the classic cars on the Central Coast. He personally owns a 930 Turbo.
Mitch'sStitches
1331 Walker Street
San Luis Obispo CA 93401
805-546-9108
Email: watts2u@sbcglobal.net
Mitchs Stitches
1331 Walker Street
805.546.9108
Just put a new top on my 65 356. He (and his son) have been in business over forty years. He does most of the classic cars on the Central Coast. He personally owns a 930 Turbo.
Mitch'sStitches
1331 Walker Street
San Luis Obispo CA 93401
805-546-9108
Email: watts2u@sbcglobal.net
#4
Team Owner
id be really surprised if an 88 is not base/ clear
my 87 944 was .
when you wx it does the rag come off red ? if not you have base clear and you are fine to do a fine polish then wax, even before the polish you could do a fine swirl remover.
my 87 944 was .
when you wx it does the rag come off red ? if not you have base clear and you are fine to do a fine polish then wax, even before the polish you could do a fine swirl remover.
#6
Rennlist Member
My 89 in red was all single stage. So was / is my 964. Yes, rag is red. :-)
I’m not a detailer pro, but i do like meguiars products. The retail products (ultimate polish, compound, the scratch remover, the wax) are all easy to work with and gentle. Use a soft foam pad on a polisher (not rotary, but an orbital) and you are unlikely to do much harm. Just work slow.
I’m not a detailer pro, but i do like meguiars products. The retail products (ultimate polish, compound, the scratch remover, the wax) are all easy to work with and gentle. Use a soft foam pad on a polisher (not rotary, but an orbital) and you are unlikely to do much harm. Just work slow.
#7
Team Owner
My 89 in red was all single stage. So was / is my 964. Yes, rag is red. :-)
I’m not a detailer pro, but i do like meguiars products. The retail products (ultimate polish, compound, the scratch remover, the wax) are all easy to work with and gentle. Use a soft foam pad on a polisher (not rotary, but an orbital) and you are unlikely to do much harm. Just work slow.
I’m not a detailer pro, but i do like meguiars products. The retail products (ultimate polish, compound, the scratch remover, the wax) are all easy to work with and gentle. Use a soft foam pad on a polisher (not rotary, but an orbital) and you are unlikely to do much harm. Just work slow.
yeah then that is going to be work, single stage paints look great but are definitley work to maintain, i think we have a detailing forum, i would ask over ther what the best products are to get that great flook , plus the best product for preserving it.
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#9
Rennlist Member
A couple of stupid questions.
1. How do you confirm that it has clear coat or not.
2. Would the presence of clear coat influence whether you could ceramic coat the car? I know some people don't like the look on a classic car. I think there are options that are not overly glossy. I'm trying to find the best way to correct my paint and then lock it in.
1. How do you confirm that it has clear coat or not.
2. Would the presence of clear coat influence whether you could ceramic coat the car? I know some people don't like the look on a classic car. I think there are options that are not overly glossy. I'm trying to find the best way to correct my paint and then lock it in.
#10
Rennlist Member
^
I don't find your questions stupid. I am no paint expert. I can paint but leave the cutting and buffing to those who know how. My buddy who is an expert (MIT Mech Engineer - also a car nut) and buffed my car along with restoring the bulk of the paint.
He told me specifically that my 1988 911 was a base coat/clear coat application. 95% of my car is all original paint. So to answer your question how do you know....I suggest asking a professional.
I don't find your questions stupid. I am no paint expert. I can paint but leave the cutting and buffing to those who know how. My buddy who is an expert (MIT Mech Engineer - also a car nut) and buffed my car along with restoring the bulk of the paint.
He told me specifically that my 1988 911 was a base coat/clear coat application. 95% of my car is all original paint. So to answer your question how do you know....I suggest asking a professional.
#11
Rennlist Member
Here is what I used on my 89 (Spyerx's former car) I prefer Chemical Guys products and readily available on Amazon for order PS>> they also have a lot of instructional videos online
1. Clay block with clay luber
2. V36 polish- used with an orbital buffer
3. V38 polish- used with an orbital buffer
4. Blacklight wax (helps to fill in any slight paint perfections)
5. Butter wet wax - final finish
products used
hood shot when completed
1. Clay block with clay luber
2. V36 polish- used with an orbital buffer
3. V38 polish- used with an orbital buffer
4. Blacklight wax (helps to fill in any slight paint perfections)
5. Butter wet wax - final finish
products used
hood shot when completed
#12
Rennlist Member
^^^ yeah it looked AWESOME.
Wanna polish out my 964? :-)
Wanna polish out my 964? :-)
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Gmanscott (07-15-2019)
#13
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Thread Starter
Here is what I used on my 89 (Spyerx's former car) I prefer Chemical Guys products and readily available on Amazon for order PS>> they also have a lot of instructional videos online
1. Clay block with clay luber
2. V36 polish- used with an orbital buffer
3. V38 polish- used with an orbital buffer
4. Blacklight wax (helps to fill in any slight paint perfections)
5. Butter wet wax - final finish
products used
hood shot when completed
1. Clay block with clay luber
2. V36 polish- used with an orbital buffer
3. V38 polish- used with an orbital buffer
4. Blacklight wax (helps to fill in any slight paint perfections)
5. Butter wet wax - final finish
products used
hood shot when completed
#14
AutoX
Thread Starter
A couple of stupid questions.
1. How do you confirm that it has clear coat or not.
2. Would the presence of clear coat influence whether you could ceramic coat the car? I know some people don't like the look on a classic car. I think there are options that are not overly glossy. I'm trying to find the best way to correct my paint and then lock it in.
1. How do you confirm that it has clear coat or not.
2. Would the presence of clear coat influence whether you could ceramic coat the car? I know some people don't like the look on a classic car. I think there are options that are not overly glossy. I'm trying to find the best way to correct my paint and then lock it in.
I was quite surprised... Guards Red single stage really shined up well. It was easy to work with. Can’t wait to finish it tomorrow.
#15
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Thread Starter
Got it done...
Polished, waxed, seats conditioned, black trim “restored”... much better, not perfect. I ended up using Meguiars products and for the most part they worked great. The Guards Res was easier to work with than I anticipated.
Next step is getting the stereo replaced, going to Mitch’s Stitches in San Luis Obispo tomorrow to find out about getting the top and interior carpet replaced, and then she will be a really good driver quality Cab.
Thanks to all of you for your helpful replies.
Polished, waxed, seats conditioned, black trim “restored”... much better, not perfect. I ended up using Meguiars products and for the most part they worked great. The Guards Res was easier to work with than I anticipated.
Next step is getting the stereo replaced, going to Mitch’s Stitches in San Luis Obispo tomorrow to find out about getting the top and interior carpet replaced, and then she will be a really good driver quality Cab.
Thanks to all of you for your helpful replies.
The following users liked this post:
Gmanscott (07-15-2019)