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So several experienced Porsche mechanics have been stumped by this problem that has existed for me since 2014 with my '82. Not a bad shot to try sharing the problem here and seeing if anyone else has experienced something similar.
To sum up: I hear two to three clicks in progression from the front end when I brake heavily or use a lot of steering input at low speeds, especially in reverse. I can also sometimes hear this when loading up the suspension in track driving, though this is less common. This is perfectly repeatable under heavy braking (as I load up the brake pedal it goes ...click...click...click, less brake pedal gives less clicks). It sounds like something metallic is binding but lord help me if I know what. I can also sometimes feel it in the steering wheel when turning hard at low speed. One mechanic (Autometrics of Charleston, SC) said it seemed like it was a noise from pushing the control arm forward and backward.
Things I've replaced!
Front control arm bushings
Ball joints, both regular and now with de-cambered ball joints, no change.
Sway bar bushings
Front springs (22mm solid)
Bilstein sport struts
Strut housings sent in to Bilstein for internal bushing replacement and rebuild.
Car had turbo tie-rods when I bought it in 2013.
The only thing I haven't opened up is the steering rack, and when I replaced the control arm bushings I found that the bolt holding in the cross-member was partially stripped on the left hand side as a standard-thread bolt had been used instead of a fine thread. I was able to clean most of the threads up to where the bolt threads and holds torque to spec, but it's something I have my eye on.
Anyway... I'd love to hear if anyone else has encountered a similar gremlin.
How low is the front of your car ?
Any chance the steering rack angle is affected when you're heavy on the brakes and it brings the nose of the car down ?
I have spacers to raise the rack on my car as it sits fairly low, that keeps the rack from being horizontal ( perpendicular ) to the ground.
It's a cheap solution that might just work , worth trying !
I've got all the Elephant suspension bits and decambered ball joints on my car with 23/31 Sanders hollow T/ bars , so it's pretty stiff as well.
How low is the front of your car ?
Any chance the steering rack angle is affected when you're heavy on the brakes and it brings the nose of the car down ?
I have spacers to raise the rack on my car as it sits fairly low, that keeps the rack from being horizontal ( perpendicular ) to the ground.
It's a cheap solution that might just work , worth trying !
I've got all the Elephant suspension bits and decambered ball joints on my car with 23/31 Sanders hollow T/ bars , so it's pretty stiff as well.
It's pretty low right now (photo below), but this is something that had been happening when the car was at stock height (maybe a little lower due to rubber sag) as well. What I can't remember right now is if it was happening before or after I replaced the control arm bushings. Is it a bad thing for the rack to be perpendicular? I have a little bump steer but nothing unmanageable.
Originally Posted by r911
Front control arm bushings means BOTH front & back of both A-arms, correct?
What are the replacements?
Hah, yes both front and back of the control arms. I used the Elephant Racing replacements with a digital level.
this is out there, but has the car had any prior accident history or possibly suspension pan damage or replacement? the reason i ask is that where the control arms connect to the suspension pan (front) would be critical to keep the proper tension between that mounting spot and the cross member. if the distance between these two connection points were longer than factory, then i could see the control arms possibly slide a bit under hard braking. you want the front and rear control bushing collars to be snug between the mounting points.
this is out there, but has the car had any prior accident history or possibly suspension pan damage or replacement? the reason i ask is that where the control arms connect to the suspension pan (front) would be critical to keep the proper tension between that mounting spot and the cross member. if the distance between these two connection points were longer than factory, then i could see the control arms possibly slide a bit under hard braking. you want the front and rear control bushing collars to be snug between the mounting points.
Yes but something in the rear, probably a dented right rear quarter. I also had minor rust repair done to the battery tray, but not a full replacement of the pan. That's something I'm thinking about for the future because I'm not sure it was perfectly done.
Originally Posted by r911
you used the Elephant Racing replacement rubber, or their poly-bronze??
I just want to make sure we can eliminate the bushings before moving on to hard stuff....
[QUOTE=Dave Inc.;15775722]Yes but something in the rear, probably a dented right rear quarter. I also had minor rust repair done to the battery tray, but not a full replacement of the pan. That's something I'm thinking about for the future because I'm not sure it was perfectly done.
I understand rust repairs not being done well - my car had a horrible suspension pan repair. Feel like doing some measuring!!
No! But that looks like something I can look into. Unfortunately the photo above is the current location of the car (work took us here) so I can't really get into any complicated repairs for the time being. Measurements I think I can do.
Thank you for the advice, I'll try it. And no it's not an easy one, but it's worth it.
I mean it has probably 20+ track hours since it's started so it's not going to fall apart, but it hurts me deep down every time I pull up to a car show, back into a spot and my car goes "click... CLACK"
just another thing to do, check the shocks?
I had a weird clunk or clicking from the rear suspension, over bumps, turning etc. we too looked around, checked, pulled, measured things. But turns out one rear shock had a leak in the piston seal, very slight leakage, but swapping them the clunk moved sides.
good luck, these can drive you nuts!
just another thing to do, check the shocks?
I had a weird clunk or clicking from the rear suspension, over bumps, turning etc. we too looked around, checked, pulled, measured things. But turns out one rear shock had a leak in the piston seal, very slight leakage, but swapping them the clunk moved sides.
good luck, these can drive you nuts!
I've replaced all the shocks, hardware and bushings (front center) within the past three years. I wouldn't expect it but can check for tightness.
04-15-2019, 12:40 PM
Who Wants to Join Me in Suspension Noise Hell?
