Barclay

I'm going to attempt a brake job on my 81SC, new pads, rotors, lines and of course bleeding the system. How difficult of a job am I looking at, I intend to take my time, anything I need to worry about or concerns, special tools etc.? Thank you

CDiercks

Pads, rotors, brake lines and a bleed should not take more than about four hours. Now that's if you can get all of the fittings off without stripping them and you have all of the correct tools. I have done all of these things, although not all at once. The pads are extreemly easy, knock out the pins and pull the pads out. The calipers just have two 19mm(?) bolts holding them on. The brake lines have to come off with the calipers. The rotors will probably be the hardest because you have to get that dust cap off. Install the reverse of removal, and bleed. If you bleed using a pressure bleeder, it will take ~5 mins per wheel to bleed. Good luck.

stefang

You want to get a set of flare nut wrenches for the lines. A motive power bleeder is a good investment as well. Remember that brake fluid is an excellent paint remover. When you change the lines there will be spillage.

Stef

Paul (Weissach 911)

I would recommend a power bleeder, it will make it a one man job. It makes the job much easier IMHO. Although after your done, it's nice to go back & snug up your pads by removing them & pushing out the pistons so you have to force the pads back in. That gets most of the play & sponginess out of the pedal. You will need a 11mm flare nut wrench for your brake lines so you don't strip them. If you don't buy the power bleeder, don't push the pedal any further than it normally travels, or you'll ruin the seals in your M/C. This is the bleeder I'm talking about.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...BLEEDR_pg7.htm

mwildt

Hi,

The comments by the other list'ers are great. Especially, do get the correct flare wrench for the brake lines. If you don't I promise that you'll end up rounding the nut. If they won't budge, heat them and try again. A flare wrench will have a much better contact with the nut than other wrenches.

I assume it is the rubber brake lines you're replacing, if not check them as well. They do tend to get old over time. When you take the brake line apart the master cylinder (MC) reservoir will dump it contents out, unless you take a broom handle and press the brake pedal down. You can tie it to the steering wheel. That way the MC is closed and your brake fluid loss will be minimal, and no air will get into the MC. It is a royal pain to bleed a MC in the car.

The dust cap on the front wheel bearing can come off by tapping it with a hammer, then rotate the hub, tap again. When taking the hub off be careful not to tighten the wheel bearing up too much. The big washer inside needs to have a snug feeling. You can use a screwdriver to move it, but be careful not to damage the hub. The hub is alu and soft. Check the bearings too and you might want to have some grease available, and not to forget, DONT get dirt in there. You'll need a allen key for the hub.

The power bleeder suggested is a must, unless you have several family members that can help out.

When pressing the caliber piston back in, to fit the new pads, open the bleeder screw so the old and dirty fluid can be pushed out insted of ending up back in the brakefluid reservoir. Rmember to close it again. If you want to make sure your brakes are bled proper, then use a different color fluid. ATE blue and ATE TYP200 comes to mind, or wait until the fluid is clear. Excellent stuf, though not for your paint. Bleed the wheels in the right order, far away first.

When doing the rear rotors/brakes you will have to check the emergency brake too.

Michael
'93 RS America

Perkins

Paul's tip about not pushing the pedal any farther than it normally travels - when bleeding -- is great advice! My helper didn't do this - and it ruined my master cylinder. Ended up having to take it the mechanic - for a very costly sum.

Paul (Weissach 911)

Oh, one more thing, I had to disconnect my battery briefly after I was done to reset my M/C sensor. I've heard some models have a button on the M/C you can push to achieve this. If you don't your brake light will stay on or flash, I can't remember which.

Barclay

So as far as any special tools just the flare wrench and a power bleeder, anything else I need to know?

Noel

The method I use to remove the dust caps off of the front hub is to use the claw end of a hammer and when you see the cap move just a little (<1mm) rotate the rotor about 1/3 of a turn and repeat. Keep doing this until it comes off all the way. This could take up to five minutes as it is in there pretty far.

Once off, some have welded a nut to it for subsequent removal.

Have fun.

Noel

mwildt

Hi,

Forgot to mention that when using a pressure bleeder device you'll need to clamp the overflow tube from the MC reservoir. If not then the pressure the bleeder provides will disappear. Dont' add fluid to the bleeder device, add it by hand and then use the pressure bleeder to apply the pressure. Less clean-up and you won't have left over fluid in the tank. Just be careful not to push all the fluid out of the MC reservoir. If you do that you'll end up with air in the system. Not good.

Michael
'93 RS America

mwildt

Hi,

Forgot to mention that when using a pressure bleeder device you'll need to clamp the overflow tube from the MC reservoir. If not then the pressure the bleeder provides will disappear. Dont' add fluid to the bleeder device, add it by hand and then use the pressure bleeder to apply the pressure. Less clean-up and you won't have left over fluid in the tank. Just be careful not to push all the fluid out of the MC reservoir. If you do that you'll end up with air in the system. Not good.

Michael
'93 RS America

lally911

make sure you clamp the overflow tube tight! A lot of brake fluid can go out the overflow tube with a power bleeder if you don't :-)

After my power bleeder incident I bought speed bleeders all around. These things work great and make bleeding brakes a snap.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Bill Gregory

Barclay,

As others suggested, I also recommend a power bleeder (pressure or vacuum, although some have had mixed results with vacuum) and don't have a friend push the brake pedal to push fluid out. What happens on higher mileage vehicles, is that the space in the master cylinder where the seals normally move is smooth. Outside of that, corrosion builds up over time. Push the brake pedal to the floor to bleed the brakes pushes the seals over the corrosion, inducing rips in them. It's only a matter of time before you put a new master cylinder in. BTW, on an SC not difficult to do, but if you don't need to, that's usually better!

Jay Gratton

Barclay,
I know it has been said already, but get a power bleeder! They are amazing and it will keep you from having to ask someone to pump your brakes for you. Also, I just did a up grade on my '85 to Porterfield Brake Pads and I love them. If your considering up grading looking into those. But defiantly go with the power bleeder! Best wishes- Jay Gratton