r911

many like stiffer torsion bars - the ones used on the '73 RS are fine for me; if you do it, get hollow bars to save some wt. for little addl. $$

I uses 32F 34 R - or 30/32 these were suggested to me by a DE instructor years ago and greatly reduce the plowing understeer that Porsche dialed in to protect drivers from themselves - but be sure you know how to drive an old 911


and by "know" I mean it is so deeply ingrained as to be a reflex - you will not have time to think when the rear steps out after you lift the throttle; this includes in rain & snow too, not just dry

2 additions to Bill Verburg's post:

- shocks must be matched to the spring rate - so decide on the torsion bars first

- wider tires give more stick in corners, etc. BUT reduce the delicate, light steering feel* (again, I use what the RS used 6's & 7's)


* virtually every aspect of the cat is a compromise between more performance and NVH

if you are in your 20' or 30's yo will hotrod the car and track in some or a lot; later your wife will require a better ride and you will start to reverse what you did; birth of kids will require you to put the rear seats back in; if you have the car in your 60s or 70s, you will put softer torsion bars back on, softer shocks and taller non-performance tires back on it, ... etc. etc. finally you will sell it an buy a Boxster

GTgears

Totally agree on most of that advice, but especially the wheel and tire advice. A race car is one thing, but on my street 911s I never want anything up front any wider than a 205. Beyond that the steering feel gets heavy. This time of year I run 6x15 195s on all four corners. Living in the mountains with snow, ice, meltwater, dirt roads, pot holes, etc etc. I've basically got a tarmac rally course out my front door.

Bill Verburg

Just depends on what you want out of the car, It makes no sense to upgrade t-bars unless you upgrade wheels and tires, the goal of both is to increase grip and speed carried through a corner.

My biggest beef w/ stock t-bars is the amount of lean and thus loss of grip when going fast through any corner due to unfavorable camber .

Obviously for winter/sloppy drives different parameters prevail and tall skinny tires w/ deep tread pattern would be the ticket, Just a guess but I suspect there are few 911 driven in these conditions

If leans and more speed through the twisties aren't an issue then look at the shocks and bushes and then get a good alignment and call it good.

TargaPaul

Hotbits DT1 monotube (like a bilstien) 40 position single adjustable dampening (compression and rebound). Mid position is similar to "fix valving bilstien touring"

They were ordered and built for someone else and he never picked them up. Which was a bonus for me......as they were sitting on a shelf in Canada already so no duties ect.

TargaPaul

I'm planning to go with RE71R's or something similar, stock rim size. Hoping to do some Solo2 and maybe a track day or two, but for the most part its just a playtoy so I can relive my Solo2 and Targa NL rally days!

Bill Verburg

RE71Rs are a fantastic tire, I have a set and love them

If you are going to compete use the widest wheel that you can in the class you are in, and upgrades t's and/or sways are probably wanted as well. Set up will also be important.

16"Fuchs 7f and 8 or 9 r w/ 205/55 & 225/50 would work well

TargaPaul

That might become an issue later on.........Lol

I've had that ^ on 2 wheels at Solo2.

TargaPaul

And that in the ditch backwards at Targa trying to find the limits of car and driver.