gemt24

Hello all, This is my second summer owning my 82 SC. I've been fixing a lot of stuff. My inspector was not good. Anyway, my fist 911 and it's great.

Now the fuel line after the check valve is leaking. It is #5 in diagram I provided. It goes to the injectors but where it goes into the undercarriage of car I see no way to disconnect it. If you look to the right of the brake lines with the red fitting in the pic do those metal deals on fuel line turn to disconnect? Thanks

gemt24

Jferrante

5 goes to the fuel distributor it looks like. 5 looks to be a banjo bolt also. if you remove the nut on the end of it, it should slide off and then you can replace it or the oring or washer that may be causing the leak

Amber Gramps

Look at the cracks in that return line. It may be time for new fuel lines. It could be the washers on either side of the banjo, but I'm thinking its the rubber itself.

theiceman

If try crush washers first obviously

Mark Salvetti

Agree with the crush washers, but even if that fixes the current leak, those cracks in the fuel return line would still worry me.

The problem is that on the SC, those crimps that connect the rubber fuel lines to the polyamid lines that run through the tunnel are permanent. The only way to fix a leaking rubber line is to cut it off and replace it with a custom-made replacement with some kind of barb fitting and a hose clamp.

I think you have three options. First, buy the Porsche replacements, which are duplicates of what you have now (rubber lines permanently crimped to the polyamid tunnel lines). That means replacing the tunnel lines too, which can be difficult with the steering rack and engine in place.

The other two options are the custom route. Len Cummings (username BoxsterGT) on Pelican makes custom replacement rubber lines and the clamps to connect them to the tunnel lines. Or you can buy a complete set of custom lines from Len (front, tunnel, and the NLA lines in the engine compartment) that are all future replaceable because he uses removable fittings. I just ordered the complete set for my SC.

Since replacing the entire set is going to be difficult until you drop the engine, I'd be tempted to go with the new rubber lines and clamp fittings, although I would be nervous about leaks from those clamps.

Mark

theiceman

Mark how spendy is it for the complete set ?

Mark Salvetti

Around $500 for the complete set, including the two front lines, two tunnel lines, the line to the accumulator, and the return line from the engine back to the tunnel.

That's a bit more than it would cost to get the lines from Pelican, but I think the two engine lines are NLA so you'd have to source them separately on top of that.

I hope to see the new lines in 2 or 3 weeks.

Mark

theiceman

That's a good deal really. Could save your car too.

gemt24

Well, theres the route I took for now. Drove around tonight, put 11 Gallons in her and no leaks yet. It takes 5/16 for hoses after fuel pump and 1/2 from tank to fuel pump. I have one of those Dremel attachment pen things and put as low as rmp it goes. No sparks. Thanks for input. You guys have been great so far.

Mark Salvetti

Did you end up cutting out the banjo fitting and reusing it with a new hose? Did you also replace the fuel return line, or are you letting that be for now?

If you have some photos, please post them so we can see what you ended up with.

Thanks,

Mark

r911

example of concealed damage on INSIDE of a fuel hose - the outside looked fine

gemt24

I carefully cut the 4 crimped fittings out and replaced the lines with fuel injected rated fuel line and hose clamps. The 1/2 inch from tank to fuel pump was just hose clamps to begin with and I replaced that also. I never touched the banjo fitting, just cut the bad crimp fitting of it. So supply, return and feed are all replaced. 3 lines total

Nice to shut garage door all the way again and not smell gasoline. I should have taken pictures but 4 hours under car last night I wanted to drive. The first hose I replaced once it was in I saw guy at auto part store gave me the wrong hose. It said "for carburetor only" on it. Back to parts house at 5 to nine. Done at 11:00

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220765994.jpg

That is somebody else work but that what my car looks like now where lines go into tunnel. This is the link that showed me exactly what to do

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...81-911-sc.html

theiceman

I imagine you emptied the tank completely to do the fuel pump supply line ? How did you do that ? Just run It as low as you cold then cut the line and let it drain ?

r911

I think you'd have to tilt the front up pretty far in the air to really drain every bit of fuel

a pump with the inlet inserted thru the top (sender) bung will work on most tanks - slosh and pump it out; lather/rinse/repeat

that also gets you a sender inspection and new seal

of course, if there is rust in the tank you will see more sedimentary rust (is it worse than igneous rust??)

the plastic swirl pot in the CIS tanks prevents boiling them out